Great! I just want to make sure I buy the right parts. Thanks guys!
-Dan
| Slant Six Forum https://www.slantsix.org/forum/ |
|
| Napa Gold Filter Part # https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34405 |
Page 1 of 2 |
| Author: | dncoles [ Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Napa Gold Filter Part # |
I'm going to change my oil and change my oil filter to a napa gold filter. My question is what is the part number for my '68 Valiant? On napa's online parts search it shows #1515 but on here I've seen #1806. Is there a difference? Thanks -Dan |
|
| Author: | Pierre [ Fri Mar 20, 2009 3:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
They are the same size, but 1806 is the one with the built in standpipe. If your pump has a standpipe 1515 will suffice, if it doesn't 1806 will give you quicker pressure on startup. |
|
| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Mar 20, 2009 3:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
1515 will work, but 1806 is better 'cause it has a built-in standpipe. See this thread and the threads linked from it. |
|
| Author: | dncoles [ Fri Mar 20, 2009 3:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Great! I just want to make sure I buy the right parts. Thanks guys! -Dan
|
|
| Author: | dncoles [ Sat Mar 21, 2009 5:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ok guys I bought the Napa 1806 oil filter and when I pulled the old one out it was a napa silver filter. But there was good news and bad news when I tried to start it. While changing the oil filter I saw I have a cracked exhaust manifold  Then after putting in the oil I went to check the oil with the dip stick and it looks like its broken off. Where would I buy a new one? Then I went to start it and even after sitting for 2 years or more, it fired right up BUT I saw gas spraying out of the hood. Yeah I have to replace my fuel hose.  So I may as well do the fuel line mod.Even with these setbacks I'm still having a good time with my slant 
|
|
| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Mar 22, 2009 10:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | Fuel line mod |
dncloes, I did the fuel line mod with a twist. Take a look at the link below. It works very well and hot starts are quick. No excessive cranking. I am running a Perma cool fuel/water separator since we have lots of condensation up here. The Summit stainless filter was what I was running at first but still had water collecting in the carb so I just left it in line. No more problems over the past year or so. Nice quick starts and no more miss fires at idle. I also plumbed in a fuel pressure gauge between the pump and Summit filter which reads a steady 5.5 pounds at idle. Under the carb you will see an aluminum plate which acts as a heat deflector keeping the carb much cooler. |
|
| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Mar 22, 2009 10:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
That's an interesting and really clean setup. I have a couple questions: 1. Where's your PCV valve? I don't see one in the hose between the rear breather and the carb, but perhaps it's hidden. 2. That fuel/water separator is interesting. What's its intended application? |
|
| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Mar 22, 2009 12:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Dan, 1. This is the PCV unit I used http://www.spectreperformance.com/#CATALOG.4284 With this air breather http://www.spectreperformance.com/#CATALOG.4277 2. I got tired of pulling the bowl off the 1920 every other month or so when I heard a misfire to clean out the water droplets. I have asked Cenex to change the filters but they still pump some water with the Ethanol flavored gas. It did the trick, carb is spic and span..... We used to put them on boats as a standard upgrade when I worked at the Marina. You don't want your boat engine to stall on a rough winter days out in the Straits or on the outside of Vancouver Island. I sit in traffic for hours some days and it is nice to hear a good steady beat from the engine with no misfires. |
|
| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Mar 22, 2009 12:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That's an interesting "stealth PCV valve" cap. Thanks for the link. So the fuel/water separator is...meant for installation in vehicles or boats? Or it's a gas station item adapted for underhood service? I'm trying to figure out where it came from/what it's sold for, and where to look for it. Is it drainable, or is the water sequestered in a throwaway cartridge that needs periodic replacement? |
|
| Author: | Reed [ Sun Mar 22, 2009 12:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Dan- http://perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page26.html |
|
| Author: | dncoles [ Sun Mar 22, 2009 12:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I like that Ted! Its a very clean install. When I lived in New Jersey that fuel/water separator probably would have come in handy with the high humidity. But now I live in New Mexico and I don't think I'd need it with how dry it is. One question though, on my car the breather cap has a hose hooked up to it that I believe runs to the air filter. How come your's doesn't have that? And like Dan said about the PCV being stealth, I like that. I get more and more ideas everyday. Thanks -Dan |
|
| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Mar 22, 2009 12:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ducted crankcase inlet air (hose from the breather to the dirty side of the air cleaner) was introduced in California in '64, in all production in '68. Prior to that, the crankcase inlet air was drawn from just outside the breather. Ducting to the air cleaner works better because then crankcase fumes released thru the breather at low manifold vacuum (full throttle/up hills, etc.) are still sucked into the engine and burned, rather than being released to atmosphere. There is no such duct on Ted's car because he has chosen not to install one. My only reservation with the stealth PCV valve is that it appears to be offered as a "universal" type of deal, tho in fact PCV valve calibration is pretty crucial to how well the engine runs. |
|
| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Mar 23, 2009 9:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Dan, That is a good point and very good idea. I don't like the idea of pulling in dirty air! There is a short nipple hanging below the air cleaner near the inside base that could be drilled out and a hose hooked to. Spectre does make the same cap with out the PCV that I could run under base to that fitting. That would make it very tidy and like the idea of capturing any possible fumes at low vacuum. Hopefully the fitting and hose won't interfere with the carb function. I suppose I could run a 90 degree fitting to the base and hook it up that way so it is getting clean filtered air. That will be next on my list. I have a full two years on the rebuild and am close to 50,000 miles. It's time for valve adjustment however, it sure runs strong. Running 0-30 Mobil 1 and Wix 1806 filters. As far as tuning, the mixture is set at 2 1/2 turns and runs rock steady @600 rpm, especially during long 45 minute to 1.5 hour traffic back ups. We used either the PermaCool or Mercruiser fuel water separators on gas boats, small diesels like the marine version of the Volkswagon Rabbit engine, etc. Yes, there is a petcock on the bottom to drain it or you can spin on a new filter. We would swap the canisters out once a year on boats. On gas boats they do not allow the petcock type filters in case of leaks, only on diesels. I open the petcock on mine and check it every couple of months. I usually get several drops of water out. You can see them float on the bottom of my catch can. It sure keeps the carb from oxidizing inside the float bowl. Everything is always super clean!
|
|
| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Mar 23, 2009 10:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I don't like the idea of pulling in dirty air!
Not quite sure I understand this. Where/how are you concerned that dirty air might be pulled in?Quote: There is a short nipple hanging below the air cleaner near the inside base that could be drilled out and a hose hooked to.
That's for pulse-air secondary air injection. Not a good idea to duct your crankcase vent to the clean side of the air filter; it'll mean crankcase fumes (dirty air) going right into your carburetor. Better to duct to the clean side, as the factory did. Just use the nipple already on the side of the air cleaner housing; the mesh in the breather cap will keep the chunks out and the air filter will catch the rest. If for some reason no nipple on the air cleaner (where'd it go?), or if your engine is whipped and generating enough crankcase fumes to foul an air filter quickly, you can reasonably easily cut out a small window from the air cleaner's outer wall and install a crankcase inlet pass-thru such as Standard #BF11:
|
|
| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Mar 23, 2009 3:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Aggressive Ted wrote:
I don't like the idea of pulling in dirty air! Quote: SL6 Dan wrote:
Dan, coming from the air breather.....all the dirt and sand that gets blow over the engine and collects on top of the valve cover is unbelievable. I sure don't want that being sucked into the engine. The air cleaner is almost as bad with all the sand in the bottom of the base. I run a pre-filter just to keep the big junks out of the filter, which drop to the base. I want clean filtered air coming into the crank case, not dirt, dust a road grime. It should help keep the synthetic oil from getting a little less contaminated. I run a fair amount of water injection which also helps keeps the oil clean a little longer, less carbon pollution.Not quite sure I understand this. Where/how are you concerned that dirty air might be pulled in? I added (4) new pictures this afternoon after finishing the mod. It was raining out when I took them so they are a little dull but you can see the before and after. The first two are how I have been running it the last year so. The last 4 shots are today's 3/23/2009. I purchased the Spectre #4279 air breather and a #63818 90 degree pre-bent Goodyear hose and two clamps. |
|
| Page 1 of 2 | All times are UTC-07:00 |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/ |
|