Or just buy new oil. It's cheap.
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| how long to wait https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34651 |
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| Author: | Bren67Cuda904 [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | how long to wait |
just changed cam and broke it in for 30 minuites running between 2300-3200 rpm. should I change the oil now or wait a couple of weeks? |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:35 am ] |
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now |
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| Author: | Bren67Cuda904 [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:56 am ] |
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Why? |
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| Author: | stonethk [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:15 am ] |
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Just a guess here, but I would think all the little particles of metal coming off during the break-in process are now suspended in the oil. or Possibly the cam lube and motor oil mix is not a good thing? |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:25 am ] |
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When I installed my new cam even though it was reground the engine builder insisted that I change the oil after break in and reinstall Kendal oil or he would not warranty the engine work. So I followed his advice. I drained the oil into a clear plastic Rubber Maid/Tupperware bowl and let it sit for a few days. After gravity had a chance to settle out the heavier metal particles I found a very fine silver goo at the bottom of the bowl. After pouring off the good oil to put back in, I have kept that container just for reference to show how much initial wear there is on the lifters and cam lobes. It is just to reduce contamination. Who knows how much junk was in the filter vs the bottom of the pan? Since then using Mobil 1 0-30W oil I have never had a trace of silver metal particles in the oil changes. I always check with the clear plastic bowl. We have built close to 30 engines and it always fun to check the oil after the first twenty minutes. It never hurts to spin on another filter and drain off the good oil to re run. It is cheap insurance and is reassuring to know all is well. |
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| Author: | 440_Magnum [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:44 am ] |
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Quote: Why?
As Ted mentioned, a fair amount of "stuff" comes off a cam during initial break-in. But the other thing, depending on what cam break-in assembly lube you used, is that it may be mildly acidic (to micro etch the lobe surface for oil retention and long life). You can always tell that kind of lube because it will have specific instructions to put it ONLY on the cam lobes and use something else on the cam bearing journals. You need to get that stuff out of the engine after its done its job on the cam lobes because its not good for the other bearings (both cam and crank).
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:56 am ] |
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.....just use it in the lawnmower...... |
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| Author: | theslantingsix [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:36 pm ] |
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my buddy strains used antifreze with his wifes pantie hose dont know if it would work with oil though but u could try itand u could of used one of those oil filter magnets |
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| Author: | Bren67Cuda904 [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:17 pm ] |
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Or just buy new oil. It's cheap.
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| Author: | RustyRamcharger [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:48 pm ] |
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Quote: my buddy strains used antifreze with his wifes pantie hose dont know if it would work with oil though but u could try itand u could of used one of those oil filter magnets
Coffee filters work better for straining used coolant, parts washer solvent, etc. The ones that are formed into a bowl shape can be flattened and refolded to fit a funnel.Be careful when reusing coolant. Check the pH! With age and use the pH drops and it becomes acidic. If the pH tests less than ~7.5, it is NOT safe to reuse. Ken 
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:22 am ] |
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First EXwife had a 2001 Silverado with a 4.3. (roller cam) I changed the oil @ 500 miles. It had a factory magnetic drain plug. Lots of stuff on the plug. Everytime less and less. My question is why would you want the cam metal circulating around the engine? Got a magnet? For fun drop it in the old oil and swish it around, it would be interesting to see what you find! |
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