| Slant Six Forum https://www.slantsix.org/forum/ |
|
| 1964 Signet Convertible Top Installation Help https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35152 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | johnwhitty [ Fri May 01, 2009 11:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 1964 Signet Convertible Top Installation Help |
Hi. I just purchased an OEM top for my vaiant. I have been told different stories about installing it. Everything from, "it's not that hard," to "leave it to the professionals," to a frikin $900 quote for installation of the new canvas. Could someone help with some insight/info please. Cheers. John. |
|
| Author: | wjajr [ Sat May 02, 2009 5:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
These tops are not too bad to install if you take your time. You will need new pads, new cables, new tack strips, SS staples 1/4" & 5/16", a pneumatic staple gun or an electric staple gun and a tack hammer to sink the electric shot staples, and a shop vac. Always use new stuff, so order it and have it on hand. Take pictures of the old top as you methodically disassemble it while removing it in reverse sequence of the install from the car so you can see how it is to go back to gather. Measure the center to center distances between header, top bows ,and rear fastening point at trunk so you can position them properly during the install. Height of window distance from rear bow to rear attachment can be had from top maker. Hint keep all little parts such as rubber "screw end" covers in a labeled zip lock bag Once the top is off and well documented, run the top frame up and down a few times to see if anything is bent or binding and adjust as necessary. Check that the hydraulics are filled and not leaking, and if you need parts look here , or here.. At this point in the project it is a great time to, clean, sand, prime, and paint all the top frame with a satin black, and remove the latches for a good clean & polish. Don't forget the zip lock bags. The tops are indexed to center, and some have marks for positioning elevation of sail panels. Make sure all threaded fasteners are clean and work freely before starting. Repair any rust, and rust holes that you find in the water gutter below where the top fastens to the body, and paint that area. This gutter has to be water tight to drain properly and keep your trunk dry. Tack strips installed first, padding second, rear window third, sail panels & cables, and lastly attachment to windshield header. Always start at center line and work your way left & right. You should Google "convertible top installation" read, and view all you can find. I rented a DIY top install video before I did my LeBaron a few years ago that was helpful, boooring, but helpful. Be prepared to take a day or two to do this job under cover, and get a friend to help hold, and pass stuff. Take your time, be prepared to reposition the section at hand several times as you progress, working out wrinkles, before all is straight & square. |
|
| Author: | 64 Convert [ Sat May 02, 2009 5:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Excellent summary, and I will add that it works much better if you do the work during warm weather, as it makes it much easier to stretch the material. Also make sure you replace the well at the same time. It's not difficult if you take your time and recheck everything before fastening. And don't forget to have a factory manual on hand to show you how to make adjustments. |
|
| Author: | dakight [ Sat May 02, 2009 5:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
This topic has been moved from the Engine forum. |
|
| Author: | johnwhitty [ Sat May 02, 2009 11:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | incredibly helpful |
Quote: Excellent summary, and I will add that it works much better if you do the work during warm weather, as it makes it much easier to stretch the material.
thanks very much. i appreciate that. i will give it a shot, and thanks for the links. have a good weekend. John.
Also make sure you replace the well at the same time. It's not difficult if you take your time and recheck everything before fastening. And don't forget to have a factory manual on hand to show you how to make adjustments. |
|
| Author: | johnwhitty [ Sat May 02, 2009 11:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | manual |
I have the shop manual but it doesn't really say much about the top. Do you have any recommendation or should I just go on line? thanks. John. |
|
| Author: | 65 dartman [ Sat May 02, 2009 1:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: manual |
Quote: I have the shop manual but it doesn't really say much about the top. Do you have any recommendation or should I just go on line? thanks. John.
My 65 FSM has a step-by-step for replacing the top as well as any adjustments needing to be made. I follow the procedures on replacing a top on a 65 Coronet I had and had no problems with the installation (other than needing to repair a rust hole in the front header).
|
|
| Author: | wjajr [ Sat May 02, 2009 6:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Go on line, and read about & watch different people installing a top. They all have a little different slant (LOL) on how to do it. Print off what makes the most sense to you, and have at it. Take photos each step of removal, and note how padding is attached, and lapped. I neglected to list a can of contact cement & disposable 1"brushes, I used two types aerosol, and brush on. You will need this to adhere the sail panels to the window openings, make up the padding, and reattaching the well liner. I used brush-on Weldwood contact cement by DAP, and Duro all-purpose Spray Adhesive. Some tops have a piece of top fabric that is folded over a length of piping (rope) that is attached after the top is stapled to the header that forms a kind of seal between the top & header. You may have to have an automotive upholstery shop sew this for up you for a few bucks it not all ready made up. Most convertibles made from the late 30's to present are for the most part all install the same way, using the same attachment methods. There are a few exceptions such as my 82' Lebaron in that she was a hard top to rag top conversion, and has some funky attachment methods that are labor intensive. look here general instructions here still more here Oops! don't miss this one |
|
| Author: | johnwhitty [ Sat May 02, 2009 11:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | thanks very much |
very cool of you to help. these links really cover it all. much appreciated, really. I will tackle this in a couple of weeks when the weather is better and i am done with my school semester. You have saved me several hundred dollars. plus i prefer to do it myself if i can. cheers. John. |
|
| Author: | wjajr [ Sun May 03, 2009 4:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: cheers. John
Hey John, where is my beer there buddy?Take your time, be fussy, keep the beer goggles in their case until the job is done, and the job will still look good the next day.... After removing the rotted moldy top & pads as well as installing new carpet padding, and cleaning & painting all that I could of the top irons, the old crate has that "New Car Smell"!  
|
|
| Author: | johnwhitty [ Sun May 03, 2009 9:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | it's in the mail |
top in pic looks good. thanks again. John. |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC-08:00 |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/ |
|