Does anybody recommend where I can get a 225 Crate Engine?

Don't think they exist.

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69 Plymouth Valiant

Are you looking for a rebuilt 225?
Normally using the term "crate engine" refers to new engine in a crate.

Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

Ill sell you a performance 225 and ship it to you......on a pallet.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Thanks for the offer.
I found a local high performance shop that will do rebuild to stock for $1800 to $2500.

Autozone and Oreilly's still sell the slant 6 motor or at least according to there website about $1600 + core

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1984' Dodge D150 Utiline Bed
Slant 6 225, Holley 1920 Carb
A833 4 Speed O/D Transmission

Ill sell you a fully broken in 225 with performance head , 9.25 CR Erson 280/270 cam, dialed in distributor and any accessories you want for $1200.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Now that's a deal!

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

That is a deal. I have 1500-1800 in my rebuild already.

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2006 Jeep Commander
2013 Chrysler 200

1964 Valiant 4 Door
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
1967 Chevy Camaro

Boy, why did I build my own engine? I would have ordered a "crate slant" from Sandy in BC... That's a deal!

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These ones go to eleven...

I want it!
Can't justify it currently though. Maybe if that tree hadn't jumped in front of me.

pallet slant actually........

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Yeah, and they sometimes take short cuts on these short or long blocks...(I especially love my buddy getting a nice Ford Big Block a few years back with 2 rod bearings at 20 under and the others are 10 under...you don't get moly rings either...

-D.idiot

Don't buy a engine from a parts house. Buy from someone you can talk to , work out any problems or hold responsible if something goes wrong.
Don't go for the cheapest price go for the best quality you can afford.

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Fast is fine but accuracy is final. You have to learn to take your time ... in a hurry
- Wyatt Earp

Oh, my goodness, that's true.

Here's some criteria REQUIRED to have a good motor when done...

1. Boring AND honing MUST be done with a torque plate, done to a proper plateau (base metal) finish. This means a two (minimum) pass boring job, a multi-step hone job, that ends with a super fine ball hone finish, so that the cylinder walls have a super fine finish.

2. Pistons must be measured and cylinders bored and honed to the precise match. Pistons often have variations in size which need to be matched for to get the best fit.

3. Valve seats are not optional these days.

4. Bronze guides are also essential if you want a long, long life and good valve guide accuracy.

5. Top quality valves are essential.

6. Bearing clearance is NOT "tighter is better". The machinist should finish your journals to match the bearings you have, and I'd suggest being the top 1/3 clearance.

7. There is no substitute for a roller timing chain and degreeing the cam is essential for best performance.

8. Cam break-in shouldn't be ignored or improperly done.

9. Rods should be reconditioned and properly refitted for accurate sizing.

Balancing is a great way to have a really, REALLY nice running motor.

To be honest, few rebuilders and few machine shops will build a motor properly. I wouldn't even consider buying a rebuilder's motor. Ever.

I go and talk to the machinist himself, and if he doesn't immediately insist on doing certain things, he just never gets my work. So far, in my area, I have ONE shop I trust to do the work right, out of dozens. He builds race motors and has for 40 years. And it costs about 100 dollars more to have him do stuff, over the mass production shop.

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'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.