Hello all, I am now the proud owner of a 65 dodge dart with a slant six, 1barrel. I am looking to convert it to a super six. I have read about this process on the articles page, and have looked into what I would need to buy. this is my FIRST project ever and am a little daunted by the task. Any advice? Too much to take on? If I'm not changing my exhaust, do I need to switch out the exhaust manifold? Or just the intake? So many QUESTIONS!?!?

Do searches for the super six conversion and there will be an answer about the manifold, I would answer you but I cant remember it myself.
As for the exaust you may want to upgrade that first to a 2.25" pipe and freer flowing muffler. I thnik you will get more bang for the buck and you can do the super six when you find a manifold, carb and kickdown linkage, the exaust will be benificial with the 2 barrel also.

good luck and have fun with it.

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

Welcome on the board! It's tempting and fun to think about making changes as soon as you get your hands on a car, but consider not doing any upgrades or modifications until you've picked up some wrenching skill with repairs and refurbishments. The very first thing to do is order the three books described in this thread. They will get you quickly up to speed on how your car works and how to work on it effectively.

The second thing to do is to figure out and write down exactly what you want your car to do that it doesn't presently do. Not in terms of which parts are under the hood, but in terms of performance, driveability, economy, steering, stopping, etc. Then post your goals here and you'll get good quality advice steering you towards the most effective and cost-effective mods to make, and in what order.

Even in 100% stock configuration, the difference in performance between a well-tuned car and a poorly-tuned one is extremely large. It can be tough to find a professional mechanic these days who is familiar enough with the older cars to do better than getting it in the general ballpark. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. And your car requires periodic valve adjustment.

The Super Six swap is not trivial into your '65, because of the differences in throttle control setup. You may eventually want to do this, but start as suggested here first.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

When I first got my car last winter I was thinking the same thing however I'd see how far you can take your current set up.

I'm willing to bet that until you really get really good with carb and car tuning that most guys who choose to tune the car as a whole with a 1 barrel will take out your super six car everytime.

I'm amazed at how much power I'm making right now with my stock 1 barrel Holley and I have not done anything to the carb except a rebuild.

I leave the super six and Holley 390 options open for myself but I prefer to get there because I have to mod and I ain't anywhere near that yet.

Check out the HEI threads and general tune up threads if you want to wake up that car of yours.

Good luck and Welcome to the forum.

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

Besides... If it's workable and not a boat anchor, keeping that 1 barrel carb will save you lots of cash you could use elsewhere.

You will love the look on peoples face when they see how much power you are making with a 1 barrel.

Heck... I'd race anyone in this town if they plugged up all but one barrel and took off all but six plug wires.

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

Thanks for help so far guys. Its nice to be on a forum that doesn't have any trolls. I forgot to mention...I got the carb rebuild recently, so I DO need to learn how to tune it all up efficiently, and hearing about it just pumps me up to start up the work,

my issue is that there is a lead in the exhaust manifold. Gasket has gone bad. I was just thinking that while I was there....
But I get how big of a project it all is. WOuld you suggest taking it to a mechanic i trust to un-bolt the manifolds, or what? I know how prone to snapping they can be.
Thanks again guys.

We work hard…and we play hard.
Carburetor operation and repair manuals (and some training movies) are posted here for free download.

It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions.
Nope, do it yourself. If any studs are going to snap, or if the exhaust manifold's going to break, it's going to happen whether you or a paid mechanic is behind the wrench.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have no clue how to work on cars so I understand your desire to take it to someone who knows what they are doing. Those people are few and far apart...

I neglected to realise how important a properly working choke was to a carburetor set up.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ting+choke

Take the time to get that choke working flawless. It will be a learning experience and you will be tempted to cuss at times but get it perfect. I spent several hours with mine, assembled it wrong, played around with it until I was ready to quit and get an electric choke then decided not to give up worked with it some more until it was right. Instructions are all over this board so some searching would be good. Just remember that the stove and shaft to the carb should be working perfect before you go on to the other choke related checks. Mine was so bent up that it was touching the stove case from time to time and was not lined up well making its performance unreliable. Take your time and bend the rod a little then put it all back in and check and re-check. Once you get it lined up nice and not hitting or binding through its full travel you are half way there. If its adjustable set it on the car with a 3/8 wrench and a flat screwdriver. Make it just want to just ever so lightly close when cold and it should be right when its hot. I made that mistake of having it slam too forcefully closed when cold so it was not wanting to fully open when hot.

Get some PB Blaster to help with the manifold bolts and some carb and choke cleaner for getting that choke working smooth. I could have saved myself several days of tweaking my carb had my choke been working right from the start.

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

hey Hard Charger
noticed you had a B body w a factory 225. Me too!
Here's a couple things I have learned

1) when you finally do make the super six conversion. you will NOT need to change your throttle cable. The instructions on this site were for an A body

2) your B body K frame is unique to the slant. Despite what others may tell you, V8 conversion motor mounts kits like schumacher are not available for a B body slant six k frame. Apparently there weren't enough Bbody/225s made to justify an after market product. You will have to change K frames if you ever go to a V8

3) its fun to tell people "nope. its not a 440. its got a slant six in it. came factory!"

have fun. God Bless

keni

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isaiah6:8
www.kenithomas.com

Charger fans, I had a '72 Charger while in college back in the '80s. It had a 340 and four speed with the famous pistol grip shifter. That was a fun car, I do miss being able to drive it. It now sits out behind my dads barn slowly rusting in half. : (

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

so I've gathered that my order of operations should be:
-read up on the books I just bought (from the forum suggestions)
-Replace the rotting exhaust manifold gaskets
-Tune up for fiddling with choke, carb etc
get it purring
-get some wrench time
-consider the super six?

Yup, you're on track!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

dont forget to do a valve lash adjustment you will need a valve cover gasket
keep on roddin'

When I replace my manifold gaskets, are there more bolts than the seven on top and the two connecting to the exhaust pipe?
Also, lash adjusting,
first time car guy question. I must remove...what....

ALSO (SORRY!)
Will I need to apply all of those sealants and goos to the manifold and gaskets in all the right places as described in the installation article, or is that more for swaps and not so much for replacement of same parts.