I need to know the shipping weight of a 833 od trans(iron case) I did a search but when searching 833 weight I just came up with oil weights Anyone know? Any one ship one before?

Thanks

Cast iron case will be in the neighborhood of #130. Aluminum case will be around #15 less.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

An A-body A833 in a wooden box is right at the 150lb UPS weight limit. The B/E/pickup A833 is heavier.

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Joshua

Only 15 lbs. less zilla? Feels like 150 lbs. lighter when you lug one then the other Quess I wont sweat the extra weight then might have to shave a little weight off the nut that connects the seat to the steering wheel to even things out.

How much does the 904 weigh?

Thanks

An A904 is right about 100 lbs empty, no torque converter. The 904, torque converter, flex plate and fluid weigh less than an A833, flywheel, clutch and bellhousing.

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Joshua

Dont know why I always thought the aluminum 833 to be lighter than the 904

Issue #55 of the Slant Six News gives us weights for a lot of different parts.

A904 dry. 90 lbs
A904 torque converter. 25 lbs
8 qts ATF (gear oil should be the same). 16 lbs

That's 131 lbs for a complete A904 without linkages or cooler.

Early iron A833 bare. 110 lbs
Iron bellhousing 37 lbs
A833OD (has to be AL case). 75 lbs
AL bellhousing. 15 lbs
9 1/4" clutch assembly. 35 lbs

Complete ball and trunion A833 with clutch and linkage. 190 lbs
AL A833OD complete. 125 lbs

So it appears that once you add 4 qts gear oil to the aluminum A833OD that it weighs just 2 lbs more than an A904. I believe the clutch linkage is not included in the weights listed and those parts weigh more than an automatic linkage and cooler so the installed difference is probably a few pounds greater.

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Joshua

Cant the gears from the A833 swap into the od case? Seems like a worthwhile swap if you want the close ratio without the weight.I do understand the aluminum is weaker,but for a daily driver I dont think it would really matter(or the weight difference for that matter)

Thanks for the info Josh,much appreciated.

Yes, you can swap the gear sets. The aluminum case usually fails in the countershaft support area. The aluminum cases that used to be offer by Mopar Performance were bushed to increase the load capacity.

If you really want to get the weight down use an aluminum flywheel and bellhousing too.

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Joshua

Weight is not a major concern,but the less weight= faster/quicker, better for max economy.So I have been trying to keep that in mind when buying parts.Already have the lightweight mini starter,manual steering,and just got my lightweight master cylinder and adapter in the mail today.Will be going with an aluminum intake,and tube headers.HEI ignition is lighter than the mopar stuff too

The car is my daily driver,and I care very much about the family/friends in the car with me,so it will be getting a cage.Mostly just trying to offset the weight of the cage/sub frame connectors whereever I can.

Does someone make an Aluminum flywheel for the slant??? That would be cool,might help the slant rev a bit quicker. I will be going with the aluminum bellhousing.

A roll cage in a daily driver? Do you plan on using the back seat at all? Using 5-point harnesses?

Here's my road race/track day project. The upper rear bar in the window area is going to be shortened and moved so it's not so intrusive.

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Joshua

I am either thinking about a drop out bar(or some removeable type cross bar) or no back seat passengers. It is a good way to keep your car looking clean

I think if I added upper support bars to the top of the main hoop and the very bottom of it(resting just barely above the trans tunnel), using a drop out bar would be close to as strong as a fixed bar.Its not like the car will see much above 150 mph...we will see.