The factory manual will help a lot. IP removal involves disconnecting the battery, unscrewing the speedometer cable from the back of the IP, taking out all the philips-head screws holding the faceplate to the dashboard, removing the headlamp and wiper switch knobs and bezel nuts, removing the cigarette lighter, removing the ignition switch bezel nut, lowering the steering column by loosening the two bolts that hold it to the bottom of the dashboard, pulling the IP assembly rearward a few inches, and unplugging the two multi-wire connectors plugged onto the back of the IP. Then you can lift and wiggle the IP assembly out of the car.
To remove the headlamp switch knob: Reach up behind the dash and find the headlamp switch body. Feel around on the sides, top, and bottom until you find a small round domed button. Tape a penny to whichever finger or thumb will allow you to press that domed button hardest and most effectively. Press the domed button very hard with one hand and wiggle it as you use your other hand to grasp the headlamp knob and pull it firmly(!) out beyond its normal "on" position. It may take several tries and a good deal of wiggling, but eventually the knob and shaft will come out of the switch.
To remove the wiper knob: Find its setscrew, loosen it, and remove the knob.
To remove the headlamp, wiper, and ignition switch bezel nuts: Carefully insert the points of a snap ring pliers into two opposite slots in the bezel nut and carefully turn anticlockwise. If you cannot break them loose, make very careful use of a slotted screwdriver and small hammer to break them loose. Take your time so you don't scratch or scar the plastic IP faceplate.
To remove the cigarette lighter: Pull the knob and lighter out of the dash and set aside. Reach around behind the dash, unplug the wire plugged into the centre of the back of the lighter, then grasp the lighter body (still behind the dash) and unscrew it. At the same time, unscrew the bezel from the front of the dash.
How to restore the dash faceplate depends on how authentic you want it to look and how much you want to spend. There are reputable (and disreputable) outfits that will refurbish it to as-new condition including all chrome and paint. This costs several hundred dollars. If your budget and project don't warrant that amount of spending, do the best you can with high-quality spray paint. Semi-gloss (or "satin") black and "chrome" (aluminum) will get you fairly close to a reasonable facsimile of the original finish. Careful masking and attention to detail will pay off here. It can be very difficult to restore the chrome highlights to the switch labelling; a tiny paint brush and a steady hand are about all you can work with.
None of the fuel gauge faults mentioned is very hard to fix. All the parts except the gauge itself are available new, and the gauge can be rebuilt (or replaced with a good working used one).
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