Hello

I'm in the process of doing the slant six conversion and I am coming across a few complications that I could use some help with.

Electronic choke, do you use the original 'well' for the old choke or do you make a block off plate? Do you need to have a gasket?





The exhaust manifold and Intake manifold have different mounting tab thicknesses. The intake tabs are almost an 8th" thicker than the exhaust so the washers mount crooked. Should I take it to a machine shop or go crazy with a file, or just leave it

All of the manifold to head surfaces are very close, but the exhaust for the #2 cylinder is about 20 thousanths short. Would the gasket take care of this small of a gap or should I get it machined?



Which gas pedal and cable do most people use, the floating one as pictured or the older style that mount at the base of the pedal? Does anyone have one of the older style that I could buy?



Thank you for the help.

Awesome!
No gasket required, it does not feed directly to exhaust gases. If you can use that well to mount your choke assembly, go for it!
The exhaust tabs are thinner to allow the manifold to move and flex on the head as it heats and cools. If you do not have sealing problems with the exhaust, don't worry about it.
You can stack 2 gaskets in there or purchase a fat single gasket. Others (Such as myself) use just a thin layer of high temp RTV on the manifold gasket to help seal against uneven surfaces. Any way of the 3 should work for you. If that doesn't get it sealed, then being handy with a flat file, or running to a machine shop is a perfectly good option. If you do end up getting it cut take as little as you need off of the manifold to make it seal. Otherwise the manifolds may become misaligned.
If you are going to run anything other than the older-style 1bbl carburetors on this engine (You can tell easily by looking at the throttle shaft on the carb, it will have a fitting for the rod style linkage), you will have to modify the original floor mounted pedal to work with the new carb. The pedal shown in the picture is a common modification and is fairly easy to do. I recommend just using the cable type pedal, and mounting the appropriate hardware from a later vehicle to make it work correctly.

I have a floor mounted pedal if you want it.

Thats a nice engine bay you got there. Looks great!

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

If you've got the Remflex or Aussie intake/exhaust gasket(read thick) I'm sure either one will more than make up for that small difference in face height,it's kinda what they're made for.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Yeah, it does. His is a '70-'72 exhaust manifold, which does not have a cast iron well. It has an open hole, sealed off (in stock configuration) with a sheetmetal cup and gasket. If the cup's in good shape, the electric choke can be mounted atop it. If the cup's thin or distorted, make a blockoff plate. New gasket required in either case. Make sure the electric choke is assembled correctly; they've been coming thru with the thermostatic coil installed backwards!

It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I use the throttle pedal pictured on my '77 Aspen with the Super Six. Provided there's nothing which will interfere with the pedal bracket's mounting studs on the engine compartment side of the firewall, I would suggest you use it. That way, connecting the throttle cable is a piece of cake.

Oh yea.... my bad... Thanks for the correction Dan!

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing