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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 2:22 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 3:08 pm
Posts: 53
Location: InlandEmpire
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From what I can see it looks fairly simple but I dont know where to start, any suggestions?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:48 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
I've never done it on a Duster but I did on a 69 Dart which I expect is very similar. Roll the window up. Remove the window and door handles. Pull the armrest from the door and remove the inner door panel. Unhook the linkage rod from the lock lever and slide the sping clip off to remove the cylinder. Reverse the steps to reinstall.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:44 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:09 am
Posts: 1167
Location: Troy, Texas
Car Model:
According to my FSM ('74), you don't need to remove the window, just roll it up all the way to gain access to everything. Here's what it says:

REMOVAL
(1) With window in the up position, disconnect cylinder link from clip on lock lever (4 door only) and from cylinder.
(2) On 2 door models disconnect lock link from clip on lock lever, remove link control bracket mounting screws and remove cylinder link from cylinder.
(3) Remove retainer from cylinder body and cylinder from door.

INSTALLATION
(1) Position cylinder in door and install retainer on cylinder body.
(2) Connect the cylinder link to cylinder arm and to clip on lock lever (4 door models).
(3) On 2 door models connect cylinder link to cylinder, position link bracket on door face and install attaching screws. Connect lock link to lock.

There ya have it,
Jerry

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 Post subject: I think he meant...
PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:54 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
Quote:
Remove the window and door handles.
I think he meant the window handle and the inside door handle.

You will also have to use a large screw driver or flat pry bar to get the old rusty panel clips to disengage from the door itself, (just a little bit of pulling does it...)

You will also want to invest in some sealer if your door is still stock as the door is weatherproofed by a peice of plastic glued to the door under the trim panel, that way you can put it all back together like it was...

-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 8:21 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
I did indeed mean the window handle; no need to remove the window itself.

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'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 3:14 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:33 pm
Posts: 1004
Location: Sacramento, CA
Car Model:
Quote:
According to my FSM ('74), you don't need to remove the window, just roll it up all the way to gain access to everything. Here's what it says:

REMOVAL
(1) With window in the up position, disconnect cylinder link from clip on lock lever (4 door only) and from cylinder.
(2) On 2 door models disconnect lock link from clip on lock lever, remove link control bracket mounting screws and remove cylinder link from cylinder.
(3) Remove retainer from cylinder body and cylinder from door.

INSTALLATION
(1) Position cylinder in door and install retainer on cylinder body.
(2) Connect the cylinder link to cylinder arm and to clip on lock lever (4 door models).
(3) On 2 door models connect cylinder link to cylinder, position link bracket on door face and install attaching screws. Connect lock link to lock.

There ya have it,
Jerry
How do you remove the link? I get it that it'll end up sliding off the lock cylinder once it's out. But how does the bottom end of the link come out of that latch deal inside the door? It looks as if theres a clip in there holding it on. I pryed it out a bit but it looks to be at a point where if I go any further it'll end up breaking. Anyone know how to get this link off so I can remove the door cylinder? Thanks.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 3:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24805
Location: North America
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It's been a bunch of years since I swapped a door cylinder, but rusty memory suggests to me that you could probably push the C-clip off the back of the lock cylinder, thus allowing you to remove the bellcrank that connects the link to the cylinder. Then you can remove the bellcrank from the link, remove the lock cylinder, and reverse the process to install the new locks (which come with new bellcranks and new C-clips)

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 9:18 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:09 am
Posts: 1167
Location: Troy, Texas
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If it's what I think you are talking about, that "clip" rotates about the short leg of the link rod - it snaps over the long leg. Do like you were doing, lift it up off the link rod and swivel it out of the way. The link rod will then simply lift out of the hole. Notice that the clip is also snapped into the hole.

Don't worry if you break it, they sell them at all the auto parts stores in the HELP! section:

DOOR LOCK ROD CLIP ASSORTMENT (HELP! Part No. 75450)

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 2:04 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5613
Location: Downeast Maine
Car Model:
I have found that a small pair of Vice Grips make removal of the clip holding the lock body to the door skin easer, and less of a knuckle skinning exercise. Also this makes the clips' installation real easy.

The "Paw" on the end of the lock should disconnect from the linkage rod by snapping it out, or unclipping & swinging the plastic keeper to one side. I just can't recall / visualize the rigging in your year car. They are all the same only different if you catch my drift.

Lock Smith tip of the day:
A little "Minnie Mag Light" is great for seeing in side of a door. It can be propped into position inside the door, or held in your mouth for perfect illumination.

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