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| Want to learn welding https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36584 |
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| Author: | ESP47 [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Want to learn welding |
I've never done any welding before but I want to learn how so I can practicing doing floor pans, humps, trunks etc. Whats a good MIG welder to start with thats cost friendly? I have no idea what a good or bad one is so I figured I'd ask here to see if I could get some tips. |
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| Author: | Mike'68Dart [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:01 pm ] |
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I would recommend first, take a class at your local CC, then look for a welder. That way you have an idea of what you are doing first. As far as welders go, are body panels about the only thing you are going to be welding?? If so, then a 125/130 Amp, 110 Volt welder should work for you. I would also recommend getting a Miller, Hobart, or lincoln, not a Harbor Freight. Flux core wire will work, but it is not the prettiest. Something that has a gas for shielding will provide nicer looking welds, but is not so good if you have to weld outdoors, when there is any kind of breeze/wind. I am not a professional welder by any means, but this has been my experience. |
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| Author: | NCDemon1971 [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:09 pm ] |
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Quote: I would recommend first, take a class at your local CC, then look for a welder. That way you have an idea of what you are doing first. As far as welders go, are body panels about the only thing you are going to be welding?? If so, then a 125/130 Amp, 110 Volt welder should work for you. I would also recommend getting a Miller, Hobart, or lincoln, not a Harbor Freight. Flux core wire will work, but it is not the prettiest. Something that has a gas for shielding will provide nicer looking welds, but is not so good if you have to weld outdoors, when there is any kind of breeze/wind.
I will second the choice of a good welder. It's a better idea to buy one good welder instead of buying a cheap one- two or three times. I am not a professional welder by any means, but this has been my experience. Hobarts are good welders for the $$. |
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| Author: | Mike'68Dart [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:21 pm ] |
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I have a Hobart Handler 180, and it has not done me wrong. I bought it new about 5 years ago, and it is still running fine. I think I payed about $750( in San Diego) for it and a bottle, with a few extras, (10# spool of .030 wire, tip dip, welding jacket with apron and a few extra tips). |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:40 pm ] |
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www.weldingweb.com is to welding as slantsix.org is to our beloved hunks of iron. I found it last year when I was looking for some welding info. Excellent forum with plenty of info especially from the folks there that have been welding for decades. Flux core is not a good idea for body work, especially for a beginner. Penetration is deeper with fluxcore vs solid wire + shielding gas. You can certainly make it work but probably don't want to take that task on if you never picked up a welding gun before. What is your definition of "cost friendly" ? Remember the welder isn't the only cost - other things like consumables (tips, wire, brushes, masks, etc) can nickle and dime you to death. If you decide to go with gas that can be a biggie too depending on the kind you get (Argon/CO2 mixes typically cost more then straight CO2). You can read stories on the forum of how people there have modded the HF mig's with capacitors and such to improve arc quality. With the HF coupons those are a very tempting deal. The smaller Hobart Handler series or the Lincolns you can get from Home Depot do well especially if you don't want to go over 1/8-1/4". If you don't mind going used, you can often find a 220v machine with more umph for the same price as as a new 110v. The choices are many, all up to your budget and how far you want to go. I'll tell you something though - once the welding bug bites it won't let go. It's dang neat being able to melt metal and stick it together. Go to the weldingweb forum and have at it. |
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| Author: | 66aCUDA [ Mon Aug 03, 2009 6:05 am ] |
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My Clarke is Great. I have the EN-180 It is made in Italy and works great. No matter which brand you get, get one with gas. It was less than $500 with all the goodies including cart and bottle. Frank |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:42 am ] |
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Has anyone tried using one of these small MIG welders for aluminum? I have a "Astroweld" that works OK for sheetmetal, and mounting brackets, etc. I picked up a Clark, awhile ago (trade for labor). I just got a bottle of Argon, and some .030 aluminum wire, to try. Guy at the welding shop, said I might have problems with out a spool gun. Comments? |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:23 am ] |
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Charrlie, It depends on the type of wire you use and the quality of the liner. Also the length of the gun. I believe 4043 wire is softer then the 5356 type. A welders drive system may have trouble pushing it straight - imagine trying to push cooked spagehtti at speed through a straw. The idea behind a spool gun is soft aluminum wire only has to travel what, 6-8" instead of feet through the regular gun cable. Be forwarned - If you try to run alu wire through your regular gun and it doesn't work, be prepared to replace the liner and drive rollers or else if you try to put steel wire back in things may get funky and your steel weld contaminated. How small is the welder? You have to consider the heat it can produce as well, Alu needs more power to weld the same thicknes material then steel as it's heat capacity is higher. Are Clarke's still made in Italy? I know the older ones were, but I thought the newer ones were Chinese. |
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| Author: | 65Dodge100 [ Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:34 am ] |
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Quote: Has anyone tried using one of these small MIG welders for aluminum? I have a "Astroweld" that works OK for sheetmetal, and mounting brackets, etc. I picked up a Clark, awhile ago (trade for labor). I just got a bottle of Argon, and some .030 aluminum wire, to try. Guy at the welding shop, said I might have problems with out a spool gun. Comments?
I had a spool gun once and didn’t like it. You can usually get by without a spool gun and some welders work better than a spool gun. The problem with aluminum is it’s harder to push because it’s softer. It doesn’t slide through the welding lead as well so you need a teflon liner, maybe a little larger than the wire, and the shortest lead you can get for your welder - 5 or 6'. .035 wire is about the smallest that will work. You need smooth drive wheels, not the ones with the teeth in them. If your drive wheels are too tight, it will bunch the wire all up in a bird nest each time the slightest resistance is put on the wire, e.g. dragging in the liner or bumping against the work without an arc. If the drive wheels are too loose, it will make a big bang and weld the wire to the tip when you pull the trigger. There are work-arounds for all of that if you understand what it happening so you can adjust it but most welding supply places are no help. They have a mental block and won’t recommend aluminum welding even if you have a welder with the instructions for it under the lid. If one welder doesn’t work, I’d try the other one. I have a 30 year old cheepo non-USA made 110 welder that doesn’t have drive wheel adjustments but welds aluminum without changing anything (and it’s a good thing because you can’t find anything for it.) Danny P.S. It should also be noted that there really isn't a totally problem-free way to mig weld aluminum. I put up with it’s quirks and used it almost daily in my business but it’s because I’m too cheap to buy a TIG or pay for a spool gun that is only marginally better if any. If you only use it occasionally, it’s well worth trying to figure it out. |
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| Author: | slantfin [ Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:41 pm ] |
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I got a Craftsman welder from Sears, that was made in Italy, for $200. Any better welder we tried here blew out the breakers on my old tenement, or triple-decker, as we call them here in Boston. The Sears one is perfect for sheet metal on the "low" setting, and works for heavier pieces on the "high" setting. You just have to work it in one spot until the area heats up, and then you can weld thick stock. My welding mentor laughs at the puny machine, but I'm used to it. I don't care 
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| Author: | polara pat [ Wed Aug 05, 2009 3:31 pm ] |
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I bought a Millermatic 180 this year and I'm really happy with it. The Autoset makes it really user friendly for novices and it will weld up to 1/4" plate with the right chamfers. |
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| Author: | 66aCUDA [ Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:39 am ] |
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Craftsman and Clarke (same Manufacturer) Are still made in Italy. Charrlie with good wire and a "new" aluminum drive line it welds great. Just keep them seperate or neither will weld good. Frank |
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| Author: | ESP47 [ Fri Aug 07, 2009 3:39 pm ] |
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Thanks guys, I have a family member whos been welding for 50 years that's going to instruct me. Problem is he doesn't have a MIG and I understand MIG is the best for the car since it doesn't get as hot. Is this correct? |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Fri Aug 07, 2009 6:04 pm ] |
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Quote: Thanks guys, I have a family member whos been welding for 50 years that's going to instruct me. Problem is he doesn't have a MIG and I understand MIG is the best for the car since it doesn't get as hot. Is this correct?
Not for that reason, no. It doesn't matter how your producing the heat, the metal your welding still needs to get to X degrees to melt.MIG is probably easier to learn then TIG, Oxygen/acetylene, or Stick especially on the thinner metals. Also has a high deposition rate - you can put down a lot of filler quick, so bigger jobs go by faster. For smaller welders, its probably the cheapest to start with as well. |
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| Author: | 66aCUDA [ Sat Aug 08, 2009 5:05 am ] |
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For sheet metal my preference is Tig then Mig. Tig is like soldering and makes the prettyest welds. Mig is good if you have to work outside as you can use flux core wire. (use gas when ever you can) Frank |
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