A couple of months ago I bought a 71 Satellite. I drove it over 100 miles home with the rear howling the whole way. I took the axle shafts out and the drivers side bearing was a little rough so I replaced it. When I took the carrier out there was NO lube in it. I thought it would be ruined but the gears look fine and there wasn't any detectable grit in the bottom of the housing so I put it back in (hows that for Mopar quality!). The shafts slid right in without problem, however, when I rotate the axle on either side it turns freely for most of a rotation but then reaches a point where it becomes noticeably harder to turn. After about 30* of hard turning it loosens up and turns freely again, it did this both before and after the end play is adjusted. When turning the driveshaft it turns freely, along with both axles, without any hint of binding. This is a standard open diff.

Is this normal? Also, should the adjuster require a drift and hammer to turn to adjust the end play? Opinions, advice appreciated. Thanks.

A rear end assembly run with-out oil will need to be rebuilt, even if the gears look "OK". Even than, it is hard to get worn gears to operate with-out a howling noise.

The binding discribed is not normal and it is likely that a bearing is starting to fail or there is some slight metal transfer (galling) on the gears that is causing the drag.
Seeing that you did an inspection and did not find any major failure(s) and metal flakes, it is likely that you can simply fill the unit with oil and run it, and it will run... but it will howl and make noise from the damage done when run dry.

As for the adjuster, good ones turn freely and only need a slight amount of tapping when they get near the zero backlash point.
DD

I might suggest this: Remove one axle and see if you get the same binding. If so, then reinstall it and remove the other axle and try it again. This may help you narrow it down some. If you get the binding with both axle(s) installed, but not with only one axle in, you may have a tweaked housing & tube assembly. If the binding is still present with only one axle in place, then the problem is carrier/pumpkin related, and most likely as Doc suggested. The tight adjuster sort of suggests a tweaked housing, too.

Roger

Thanks for the quick replies.

When I took the pass side axle out the adjuster turned freely by hand even while still in the axle tube. It was difficult to turn only after reinstalling the axle.

I'll take the axle apart and do a closer inspection just in case I missed something.

As far as rebuilding the differential would that be preferable to just replacing the unit? The diff is a 741. I have a couple of options on a 742 and a 489 available locally.

You can swap with a 742. The 489 uses a bigger yoke so you will need to get another U-Joint that adapts to the larger yoke.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

After mulling it over for awhile I decided to replace the four bearings in the diff "just in case". Bought Timkens and had them installed. Absolutely NO more whine at all even with the original ring and pinion.

As far as the binding goes, well, I found that I had just overtightened the adjuster and that was causing the binding. When I set the endplay to .010-.012 in everything turned freely.

Thanks to all for your help.