Ok, I got the head sitting in a hot tank waiting for me to spell out the final plan. So far I think a 0.70 mill job is going to work good. But I want larger valves. I have read that the 1.50 exhaust and 1.72 intake chevy valves can be made to work good. So help me please figure out what parts I need to buy to fit them in. I already know I need smaller guides and hard seats. But I am lost on what to do about the 0.100 extra length of the valves. Can I just have the stems machined off that much? Or is the keeper grooves 0.100 higher up rather then the stem length. I also am lost on the valve spring/keeper thing. I heard the 340 springs will work well with a mild cam, but what keepers to use with the 11/32 stems? Stock small block chevy's? Thanks for any help.

Rszubart@Excite.com

I just put in a new engine that I rebuilt into my 72 duster. it's an 82 engine, the block is blueprinted, 0.015" cut off the block and bored 0.030" over, resized rods and stock 30 over pistons. I also decked the head 0.050" and put over sized exhaust valves in at 1.450" using small block chevy truck exhaust valves and turing them down on a steel lathe to size, becuase the seats were pounded into the head, it was a tired engine, intake valves are still stock size. I used bronze wall liners to fit the exhaust valves, chevy locks and ford two piece retainers and did a competition valve grind. I also removed excess material (especially the exhaust) using the proper sized bowl hogs for the intake and exhaust valves for a little better flow. I converted the motor to solid lifters. I have Mopar cam pn #P452932 and the recommened springs (340 springs) and a double roller chain. I've got a super six intake with a 2 inch spacer plate, carter 2bbl and a mopar 6 into one header, stock drive train. I have about 250 miles on the engine and it runs like an animal compared to the stock 72 engine that was in it. Also I didn't have any valvetrain geometry problems at all the adjustable rocker arms took up any slight differences nicely. My installed heights were pretty close and I used 0.030" shims on the exhaust. The ford 2 piece retainers seemed to work the best bcause they keep the valve tip pretty close to the same height above the retainer as like the intake valve. Hope this gives you some help, are you sure you can go that big on the valve sizes?

craig_o_connor88@hotmail.com

I think I am making progress in the big valve plan. It seems that the Ford 300 valves are a match in the length. Anyone know the size of the valves? I want larger valves but not somthing to big as I am still running a 2 barrel. This would work out better cost wise as I already have a brand new 300 head with everything in it just sitting. Any replys are welcome.

Rszubart@Excite.com

Many have used the Fo%& valves inthe SL6 head, the only issue is doing the guides. (the valve stems are smaller)

Any good machine shop should be able to handle the job without any issues, just bring them both heads and tell them to "put these valves into that head".
DD

<FONT COLOR="ff0000">When you get it finished, perhaps you can send me all the part numbers for everything you used and I can put them in our parts list.

Chuck</FONT>

webmaster@omnipages.com

Yes, if you want I can get a detailed parts list including the part numbers from the seats and guides. My Grandpa has a machine shop and will be doing all the work after I get done with the research. I will take detailed photos and a account of all that was done to make it work. And give some seat of the pants results. As it stands this head is going on a stock rebuilt bottom end. I will be using a larger bbd carb on a super 6 manifold. Should be interesting to see how it does. I am sure I will have to get some form od headers to really make a difference, but we shall see.

Rszubart@Excite.com

<FONT COLOR="ff0000">Pictures??? Sounds like time for another article!

Chuck</FONT>


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