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| driveshaft chop https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37983 |
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| Author: | oklahoma joe [ Mon Nov 16, 2009 6:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | driveshaft chop |
I have a 8 1/4" rear end in my car now (was 7 1/4")and the drive shaft is 1 1/2" to long I think? So I have been thinking about trying to shorten it my self. I know the phasing of the yokes is import and and plan to index them. I am going to try to cut though just the tube, right behind the weld that holds the yoke on and then cut off a 1 1/2" and weld it back together. Has any one tried this type of thing at home or have any better plans of attack? Any advise is welcome. Joe 
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon Nov 16, 2009 6:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I HIGHLY recommend taking this sort of work to a shop that has the proper tools to cut, weld, rebalance, and install new u-joints. Unless you are absolutely certain that you can cut and reweld to a 90 degree angle and can rebalance the shaft, I wouldn't touch it. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Mon Nov 16, 2009 7:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Yep... |
After you get done... it'll cost to have it rebalanced anyway. So you might as well take it to a driveline specialty shop have them lathe the end off weld it up , then balance it... I had an 8 1/4" driveline I twisted a few degrees and I took it into the local Spicer shop...1 week later and $66...I have a new balanced driveshaft (and they even cleaned it up and repainted...)...yours might be a bit more but it's worth it. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | bigslant6fan [ Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I agree with reed,I did mine at home,but I have my own lathe and i'm a good welder.3 hours of fooling around with a dial indicator setting it up in the lathe,I had it true,and welded it-it still needed to be balenced after that.NEVER again! |
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| Author: | oklahoma joe [ Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I will call around to get a price but i am still thinking about doing it. If it over $150 i'm going to give it a try myself. thanks for the input. Joe 
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| Author: | Volare4life [ Tue Nov 17, 2009 6:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
your plan SCREAMS BAD IDEA !!! nothing personal my drive shaft need shortening, got it cut balanced, and back to me with in 1hour and olny cost me $50, check diesel repair shops, they normally do axle/ drive shaft repairs, or can point you in the right direction, -Mike |
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| Author: | Wesola78 [ Tue Nov 17, 2009 7:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I agree with the others who suggested that you take it to a shop. My Volare had a 7 & 1/4 diff, and I swapped in an 8 & 1/4 diff from a Diplomat cop car. I had the driveshaft shortened 2 inches and balanced by a shop for $80 bucks. That was about 6 or 7 years ago, it still works great. There are things that I like to do to my car myself, but sometimes I feel better taking it to a shop. |
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| Author: | oklahoma joe [ Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You guys were right, can get it cut, balanced, and new u joints installed for $90. Kind of a no brainer! Thanks Joe |
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| Author: | Slanted Opinion [ Wed Nov 18, 2009 3:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Some things you just have to leave to the people with the tools and machines to do it right! Enjoy your vibration free drive-shaft.  - Mac |
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| Author: | VDART [ Wed Nov 18, 2009 5:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
have you advertised for a new drive shaft? maybe someone has one laying around that would work. Not sure what your ride is but you never know, Lawrence |
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| Author: | Dave95693 [ Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I did this exact change on my 71 Demon. You need to leave 3/4 inch gap for end play when you do your measurement. Double check your measurement and make sure the shaft is all the way in the tranny. Too much play and your going to get a "clunk" when you shift into reverse. Too little gap and you may ruin tranny parts. Either way, as the others said, I took it into a shop at a cost of $95. No way I was going to attempt that even though I do some welding. Most shops will be able to turn it around in one day. Hope that info wasn't redundant. |
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| Author: | daniel_depetro [ Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've done several by simply marking them, cutting with a cut off wheel, & re-welding it myself with my MIG. So far I've never had one fail or have vibration issues. I currently have three of my personal cars this way: 1. 1974 Plymouth Duster very mild slant six, automatic, 8.25" rear w/ 3.55 suregrip 2. 1968 Dodge Coronet coupe with a built 1968 HP2 440, 4-speed, 8-3/4" rear w/ 3.55 suregrip 3. 1972 Dodge Dart supercharged 360, automatic, 8-3/4" rear w/ 3.55 suregrip While they are all street cars the Dart & Coronet are part time drag cars that run on slicks while at the track. I've also done a few cars that I have since sold this way and a few for my buddies. Not saying have it done "right" isn't worth it, but so far I've been able to get by with it and put the money saved somewhere else. This has just been my personal experience. |
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