That is a good question. I seem to have blocked that info out of my memory, because just about everything under the dash of a '60-'62 A-body is a damnuisance.
I honestly don't even remember if this is covered in the FSM (do you have it?).
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| Author: | 62Signet [ Tue Feb 23, 2010 5:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | heater is in, hooked up, now... |
So this is an old project-in-waiting I just finally decided to get to. For years and years (gotta be 7 or 8 years now) the heater in the car has been unhooked. The problem was the heater control valve. A while back, found a new/unused one on ebay. Months back I pulled the heater core and replaced the inner hose (just cause why not?) and attached the heater control valve I had gotten. After that, just left it in the trunk. Now it doesn't often get that cold in So Cal but the past couple months, some nights have been about as cold as it'll get; in the 30's. I don't drive my car a whole lot (relatively short commute compared to most imo) but there were nights driving home late I'd just bundle up for the trip. Thought it'd be nice to finally get the heater going. So I finally got up the guts to hook it all up myself, even though summer is right around the corner... I did so today, and there doesn't seem to be any leaks or anything, so water is circulating through good. That's good news. Only now, even when the heat switch is pulled all the way up/off, and the fan is off (not Lo Hi or Def) I'm getting ambient warm air through my vents. Before when nothing was hooked up, obviously it'd just be outside/cooler air coming through, now it's always warm. I was under the impression I wouldn't get the heated air until I had the heat switch pushed all the way forward... Is it possible I just need to adjust my cable or something? It's definitely hooked to both ends. The strange thing is the air didn't seem to get any hotter whether the switch was pushed all the way down or up. The car was fully warmed and I drove it for about 10 minutes. What'd I do wrong? Is it possible since it wasn't cold out while I was testing this maybe I just wasn't feeling the difference? I will be taking the car out later tonight to grab some food after LOST so I'll test to see if I can feel a difference again. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yup, you need to adjust the cable so that when the heat slider (it's not a switch) is pulled all the way up, the valve bellcrank is all the way in the closed position. Not too hard to do, just remove the valve plate from the heater box (two outboard screws) and have a helper hold the heat slider fully up while you loosen the cable clamp and move the cable away from the bellcrank until it stops, then tighten the cable clamp. Unpublished trick with the '60-'62 heater: Select the mode you want (heat or defog) and then gently pull the button back out. This will turn off the fan while still allowing air to ram through the heater by the car's forward motion. The fan, even on "low" speed, is often too much. |
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| Author: | 62Signet [ Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Gotcha... I'm a aware it's not technically a switch, but oh well. I wrote it anyway. =) I know there's a *little* leeway to pull out the valve after taking off the valve plate... but it's enough to adjust the cable? That thing is kind of a pain in the ass to take apart and put back together... |
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| Author: | 62Signet [ Fri Feb 26, 2010 12:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Plenty of room to adjust the cable, whew. Except now: I find the cable wasn't quite put in right by the guys my dad had do it. I thought I'd adjusted it correctly when I hooked the heater up. But now I find the cable is binding on the slider end. And I can't get the mechanism out of the dash! There appears to be only one screw, and the mechanism will wiggle a little bit, but something is keeping it from coming out from under the dash... is there some trick to it, or do I have to take a lot more stuff apart to pull it out? I can get my fingers in there and I can feel that the cable is attached, and I can feel the metal part that's clamping down on the cable body (can't seem to feel a screw adjust for this). What happens is, I push in the slider, and instead of the cable smoothly pushing into/through the cable body, it just bends in a nice V shape. And like I said I can't get that end of it out of there. Any tips? Is the cable completely compromised due to this bind (as in, will it always just keep binding?)? I'd love to pull it out, and it seems like even with this problem it should only take me 5 minutes to fix, but the damn thing won't come out of the dash... I tried for a good 15 minutes on just that... Seems like it would work fine if I could get the cable out and reverse it... |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Feb 26, 2010 12:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If the cable was kinked or its clamp (at either end) overtightened, it will bind as you describe. You're going to want to make and put in a new cable, now; once it's bent as you describe, it's a question of when (not if) it breaks. Fortunately, bowden wire—as this type of cable is known—is readily available. Any lawnmower repair shop ought to have coils of it hanging on the walls. |
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| Author: | 62Signet [ Fri Feb 26, 2010 12:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ok. Still, how is it removed from the heat slider? Is there a way to muscle the whole contraption out from under the dash, or is it all done by feel? I can feel how to unhook the cable from the slider but not how to unclamp the cable body from it. Also, what can I do to stop the heat, without unhooking everything? If I unhook the cable from the heater valve is the 'at rest' position on the valve set for 'heat' or 'non-heat'? I'd rather just run it without heat, knowing I could still get it on if I needed... |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Feb 26, 2010 1:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That is a good question. I seem to have blocked that info out of my memory, because just about everything under the dash of a '60-'62 A-body is a damnuisance. I honestly don't even remember if this is covered in the FSM (do you have it?).
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| Author: | 62Signet [ Fri Feb 26, 2010 1:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yea, I have the old red shop manual, and I glanced over the heater section and briefly over the body section and I didn't seem to see anything related to pulling the slider from under the dash. There really is just one screw, maybe you just need to muscle it out. I remember when I pulled the shifter one time several years back I REALLY had to put it through all sorts of wierd motions to get it out... motions that didn't seem... natural... =) |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Feb 26, 2010 1:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well, a few details are coming back to me. You have to remove the heat slider knob -- use a mini flat screwdriver to release the spring clip from the back of the knob where it meets the slider lever itself. Then the plastic channel liner just snaps out. Beyond that, I don't recall. |
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| Author: | VDART [ Fri Feb 26, 2010 7:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
if I recall, the cable has a loop in it, it attaches to the slider on a peg the clamp on the slider holds the loop in place---, take the clamp loose, & the loop will slide off-- you should not have to remove the slider assembly. Lawrence |
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| Author: | 62Signet [ Sat Feb 27, 2010 12:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well ideally no I don't think I should need to remove it... but I really can't see up in there and by feel, I don't seem to feel anything I can loosen to remove the cable. I figured this would be something like a 10-15 minute project, but I felt up in there for a good 15 minutes upside down on the seat, legs in the air, etc. The clamp didn't seem to feel like it had a screw to undo, let alone an angle to get at it with a screwdriver. it's supposed to rain tomorrow so I don't know if I can have a look tomorrow, but Sunday, if it's not raining, I can have another go. |
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| Author: | VDART [ Sat Feb 27, 2010 5:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
the clamp should attach to the slider--- I think it is a snap type clamp-- a flat blade will pry it loose-- it snaps into the lever arm. follow the cable up to the lever-- this attachment point then allows the inside wire to move on the slider. you do not want to lose this clamp. L |
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| Author: | 62Signet [ Sat Feb 27, 2010 4:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ok, I'll check it out. For now though, i'd like to shut the heat off, it gets stuffy in there. I'm thinking I can just take a paper clip, loop it around the bellcrank, then pull it shut and wrap the paperclip around something else. This should work, right? Cause right now the cable is attached to the valve in the open position-- the kink is preventing any actual movement of the slider from affecting the valve. Ny paperclip idea should effectively be putting in the pulled shut position... |
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| Author: | 62Signet [ Tue Mar 02, 2010 2:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Went under again. Figured out how to attach/reattach the cable on the inside. I guess I wasn't being experimental enough the first time under. =) The cable wasn't necessarily binding, it's just... kind of stretched out on that end so it was curving instead of pushing in. At least now I have a MUCH clearer picture what both ends look like. I suppose I should graphite the mother and try again. I *think* it'll work better if I swap ends. Again, I'm in Cali so heat isn't something I'd be using every day, so I don't think I'd break it in a hurry. At least, not so much that it'd be a huge inconvenience... I'm familiar enough with the setup that I could get heat out of it if I *really* needed it with a broken cable. |
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| Author: | 62Signet [ Tue Mar 02, 2010 6:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Update: was bored, had some daylight, so I pulled the cable and flipped it. I figured out why I was having such a hard time with the clip on the slider: my radio isn't the stock radio, it's a modern one that had to be screwed on under the dash. It's practically right up against the slider... it wasn't affecting it mechanically, but it was so close that it basically cut out half my hand room for getting under there. It was also covering a screw that would undo the slider, so that was also huge. I undid that, snapped the cable in place, and viola. THEN, I adjusted the cable on the valve end. I guess I must have still done this wrong though... even though I tested the cable (checked it pulled back inside the car and the valve was pulled closed; checked it pushed forward, valve was pushed open) when I drove the car, heat still came through whether or not the slider was pushed forward or pulled back. WTF? It's not even like it was adjusting the temp (at least, I thought I remembered the heater would go 'full heat' pushed in, and decreasing the heat to 'no heat' when it's pulled full back) The only thing I can think of is, I didn't adjust it to pull completely closed (not likely because I'm pretty sure I checked it), which I will check next time I can, OR, the freakin' valve is shot (which I think is more likely, since it's more in line with my luck on this planet). It was supposed to be unused, but of course there's no guarantee wen they say that on eBay. What do you guys think? Is it possible to have just the valve checked? Who could check it? |
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