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| Using a V8 radiator https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40680 |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Using a V8 radiator |
I recall some talk about a v8 radiator being compatible with our slants. I was looking through some listings for them. Besides the different upper hose location, it seems the lower outlet is 1 3/4" vs the slant radiator's 1 1/2". Is there a hose that's 1 1/2" on one side and 1 3/4" on the other? Or are the catalogs for the v8 radiators wrong and they really are 1 1/2" lower outlets? |
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| Author: | kesteb [ Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:38 pm ] |
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The books are not wrong. There is no advantage to using a V8 radiator. If you want a bigger radiator use a 22" radiator from a \6 A/C car. I used one for a '76 Aspen with A/C in my '65 Dart. The lower bolt holes need to be moved up, while a F-body upper radiator and a '75 Dart lower radiator hoses were used. Works like a charm. |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:50 pm ] |
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Yup, I have an a/c radiator now. I've found an in-expensive aluminum radiator company (champion, likely offshore...) that seems to have favorable reviews. Doesn't look like they make one with 1 1/2" lower fitting though. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Fri Jun 18, 2010 3:35 am ] |
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I have that arrangement on my Dart. I just forced the hose over the larger tube of the aluminum radiator. It works just fine. If you used a larger hose, then I am pretty sure your clamps would serve to squeeze the extra down around the fitting on the water pump just fine. I had an upper hose for years that was too large for both the radiator and the thermostat housing. It looked a little funny but never leaked. I just cranked real hard on the hose clamps. IIRC I did end up with some silicone sealant on the therm housing end. Sam |
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| Author: | 65 dartman [ Fri Jun 18, 2010 4:59 am ] |
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I had my radiator shop (old time guy) re-core a V8 radiator to 3 cores and had him add a slant lower nipple I provided to where it would have been on the 19 in radiator. This was one an early A V8 radiator. It's nowhere close for installation. |
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| Author: | olafla [ Sun Jun 20, 2010 12:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Pierre, the radiators for A and early F-bodies with slantsix are the same, then in 1978 they moved the nipple for the intake of oil to the transmission cooler further towards the edge of the radiator (3-4 inches), so the radiator got a new parts number, otherwise the slantsix radiators are all the same, I think some Fords use the same size too. The V8 radiators have had different outlet sizes. The pictures in this linkare reasonably exact for the different types. I bought a new radiator for my Aspen from AccelaAutoParts. I expected it to be a china-product, but it turned out to be from the Phillipines. For $99.00 it's OK! I also got a 16" curved blade electric fan (# KMJ PC 2054S) from KMJ Performance for $27.99, and those guys are the best! Super friendly service! (chrome valve covers for $19.50!) Olaf. |
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| Author: | Jopapa [ Sun Jun 20, 2010 11:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Is your goal better overall cooling? I found that putting an electric fan in my truck made a HUGE difference in the summer heat (especially when I ran my A/C) as far as how well it cooled and power no longer being sapped from my engine. I'm researching a good radiator/shroud/electric fan combo from other cars that might be able to bolt right in (or at least require very little fab work) to an A body. So far a couple guys on the Big Block Dart forum have said a BMW 7 series (I need to double check on the year and engine package) and IIRC a Mercedes combo (can't find the post that detailed it though). I've found that a high speed electric fan setup (whether single or dual fan) used with a DC Control unit and Water Wetter added to the antifreeze (50/50 mixture of antifreeze and DISTILLED water) works outstanding. The Water Wetter helps to more evenly distribute the heat and avoid hot spots that can form near the exhaust valves in the head, too. from my understanding it pretty much just raises the boiling point of the liquid so it'll more effectively pull heat away from those spots. |
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| Author: | olafla [ Tue Jun 22, 2010 5:13 pm ] |
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Hi Jopapa, I remember a picture from Dan of a shrouded fan from a Volvo, and I seem to remember a picture of a Saturn fan also, both reasonably easy to attach to an A-body stock radiator. Try a search for them, I think there is an easy solution there somewhere. Btw, I've seen many positive remarks about water wetter. Olaf. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Wed Jun 23, 2010 5:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can buy universal rad hoses with 1.75" on one end and 1.5" on the other. I get them at Advance Auto and they are the straight type with the wire coiled into a molded groove in the hose. I've used those a couple of times with custom radiator installs. Lou |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the info guys. I wasn't after any particular goal other than hunting for replacement radiators. I noticed the cheap aluminum jobbers were about the same cost as a standard replacement. Turns out there are slant specific aluminum radiators as well for the same price range so there won't be any need to fuss with hoses. How deep are those pleats in the universal radiator hoses? I recall Dan down talking them because they didn't flow as well. |
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| Author: | daniel_depetro [ Sat Jul 03, 2010 2:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I was looking at these same Chinese aluminum radiators on eBay. For $164.90 shipped I think they're worth a shot. |
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| Author: | volaredon [ Sat Jul 03, 2010 8:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
not slant related but radiator related; (both vehicles are '97 Jeeps w/4.0s) I have had my Wrangler for 10 years. I just installed my 2nd replacement radiator about 4 months ago. the 1st replacement was a copper brass (instead of OE type plastic/alum which tortally suck) at 4 yo/~30K I busted the orig one while doing other work to the Jeep. cracked the lower tank while "cocking back" a hammer to hit on the sway bar link to pop loose. cost me ~$135 then, w/a life time warranty. Again while doing "other work" that required removal of the radiator, I noticed the fins getting rotten/ that copper one had been in there about 9 years; so I went back where I bought it (could not find receipt but have known the owner of the rad shop for years) He tried to warranty it for me but w/o the receipt the warehouse claimed they quit offering "lifetime" a year before I bought that one. So I had to buy another. another $135; but this was a plastic/alum POS that was made, I believe in Korea. I was PISSED!!! and only a 2-yr warranty.... My Cherokee, which I have only had since this past New year's--approx; has been running hot when it gets over 85*; my wife has a 6 hour round trip coming up next week so I figgered "tome to replace the ol' radiator; yup; the fins were rotten once I got it out so I could see; I called everywhere for a price; apperantly a Cherokee is EXTREMELY popular rad replacement candidate because everyone had it--in stock. Pricing? From $109-185 for "OE replacement" quality; I specifically requested copper-brass; a warehouse (wholesale) that I used to deal with frequently, wanted $119 for OE and $300 for a "heavyduty" but they thought that was plastic/alum., as well; a local rad shop said they found me what I asked for from a "different supplier that they don't use very often" Price? $428. YOW! Most told me "Sorry, we cannot get what you want; they don't make those anymore"; So I called Advance Auto. Std in stock, $109. but they had an available HD "Heat buster" they called it, for $203. and not stocked but would be there in 4 hours. the salesman did not know what material it was made from. for $203 that's the one I got. I opened it up and it is COPPER/BRASS! and double row instead of single. Pro Liance brand, (used to be the old "Modine") life time warranty, and is much heavier than the original one that came out. so far huge difference. though I know a new OE style would have also been better than what I'd pulled out, I doubt it would be "as much" better than the old one as this one is. and though it says "made in Mexico" somehow that don't "bother" me as bad as the one in my Wrangler being from flippin' Korea. |
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| Author: | Wesola78 [ Fri Jul 23, 2010 6:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Okay, this is on my '78 Volare coupe with a 225. Years ago, I removed a radiator from a '78 Volare station wagon with a 318. I took it to a radiator shop and had it cleaned out, and also I had them move the upper outlet/inlet (?) to the other side. That was back in 1996, or 1995, and it's still working fine. |
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| Author: | coconuteater64 [ Thu May 31, 2012 6:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: You can buy universal rad hoses with 1.75" on one end and 1.5" on the other. I get them at Advance Auto and they are the straight type with the wire coiled into a molded groove in the hose. I've used those a couple of times with custom radiator installs.
I just did this today, thanks! Otherwise I would have been at Summit and spent mega bucks. I replaced my slant radiator with one from a D250 wrecker with a 360. Even the shroud fit! It dropped my temperature in traffic a good 15 degrees. Piece of cake.
Lou |
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| Author: | bigslant6fan [ Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | . |
Check my post on page 3 in the engine section titled "champion aluminum radiator" |
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