I have a 1981 Dodge D-150 short bed pickup truck, with a 225 slant 6 Mopar "mild street performance" buildup and other enhancements including a Clifford intake and exhaust, the smallest Holley 4-bbl carb, and the cylinder head has matched springs and good selection of parts and machining to spec. It also has multispark and an electronic distributor and other small refinements to make it all happen.

My brother put synthetic oil in my truck, blowing the rear engine oil seal and the replacement seal was improperly installed, meaning the crankshaft was improperly torqued, and so, it has "rod knock".

I have been looking for another 225, because no one there (California) will do a rebuild and I was referred to the Bureau of Automotive Repair, and so, it sits on agricultural land in Point Reyes Station, CA.

I saw a 225 slant 6 offered from a 1971 D100.

Would I be able to use a 225 slant 6 from a 1971 D100?

Is the crankshaft going to be right for the build-up? Pistons? Etc?

The only other experience I have with "optimizing" an engine for "mild street performance" involved selecting the engine by serial number.

What do you say?

Synthetic oil will not cause the rear main seal to fail.

You can find someone that will rebuild or repair the engine. Just don't go to whomever botched the last work unless they are willing to warranty their work and repair everything they damaged.

Have you torn down the engine to determine the extent of the damage? It may be cheapest to tear down the existing engine and repair it even if it requires a new crankshaft. If you build a new short block (which is everything but the head and valve gear) you're likely to spend a lot more money.

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Joshua

There just isn't anyone there to rebuild, or tear down. But I might get a remove and replace. If I have that other engine, I mentioned, replace the cam with my cam and use everything else I already have, it could work.

The "local" business in Petaluma, CA botched the job. The "local" business in Point Reyes Station, CA where I first heard the "rod knock" referred me to the Bureau of Automotive Repair.

The "reputable" business in Petaluma, CA that botched the job, owner said I have to buy a new engine. I think he wants mine, do you think! I had previously had a problem with a business in Eureka, CA some years before. I think this probably represents the "standard" for automotive businesses in California.

I do not live there, so how do I fight it?

The Point Reyes Station, CA business said, you have the build-up, get a 225 engine and put the build up on that gine because that would involve the least number of hours.

I had no 225 to swap and no one to do the swap in and out there.

I parked my truck on agricultural land with permission.

I and my truck are licensed and registered in Montana.

I have a brother in Oregon, and I am there right now. I had someone promise he had a car hauler and use his truck to bring it here, and, he would rebuild it. He promised his dad's truck and his dad was not going to have his truck used to haul my truck from out-of-state.

I need to get this truck running. It pulls my trailer, seasonally, on and off my property in Montana. I have to "snowbird" or be "snowed in" in winter.

Know anyone?

Does the forum know anyone?

Don't take this the wrong way, I am not trying to be smart or snippy.

To own and depend on an older vehicle (slanted or not) you need either a fat checkbook, OR tools and skills with them.

The less you know about your vehicle, the more you will pay to keep it up, and the more you will be ripped off.

A couple hundred dollars invested in some good tools (to start), a willingness to learn, and this site, you can build / fix your engine and vehicle. Yes there is a learning curve, but if you stay at it you can do it. A good start is to search this site for the 3 books that SlantSixDan recommends you get, then get them.

Otherwise, get out the checkbook and keep writing checks till you find a reputable shop, and don't venture farther away from it then you are willing to pay to be towed.

TopHat

Where in Oregon?

Fopar and I use a machine shop in Junction City, just North of Eugene on hwy 99. They are excellent.
You would need to pull the engine and take it to them. (Not a terribly difficult evolution)

Did you drive the truck with no oil pressure? How long? Rod knock is not necessarily the end of the world. The engine is likely repairable as long as the block is not damaged. 60 over is not explicitly the last possible overbore, and replacing the engine would only be necessary if some sort of catastrophic failure occured due to oil pressure loss. The things that will hurt a slant: Run out/ lose oil pressure and continue to operate the engine, or extreme overheating. Sounds like the shop owner wants your money. Try somebody else that has his poop in a group.

R&R doesn't always solve problems, rather, introducing others. Finding a solid short block from someone reputable could be the answer, yes. Depending on what was done to the existing engine, some parts may not play well with a short block lacking modifications to match however.

There simply isn't enough information provided to make an informed judgement on what will work for you. Find somebody to help you with it at the very least.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

You might give that Angie's List website a try.

I try to do all of my repairs, but occasionally, I just don't have the time and have found a superb, honest mechanic who I let handle some things for me.

But I agree with the post above...anyone who desires to drive the old stuff, had better be stocked with tools and at least the desire to learn, or be stocked with cash.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


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