I was wondering if anyone knew which companies make stiffer pushrods for the slant six. I have already bent 2 pushrods. Any suggestions?

craig_o_connor88@hotmail.com

Smith Brothers make anything you want.
<A HREF="http://www.pushrods.net/">http://www.pushrods.net/</A>
Always find-out why pushrods are bending before putting-in stiffer ones, if you have valve float or sticky guides allowing valve to piston contact, a stiffer pushrod will result in a bent valve instead of a bent pushrod.
DD

I just rebuilt a motor and did head work blueprinted the block and I put the 460 lift mopar cam and the 340 springs in it. I've been told that when going to the high lift cams and stiff springs the stock rods flex without bending and you don't get the full effect of the cam and sometimes they can bend. Am I on the right track or could it be something else?


craig_o_connor88@hotmail.com

I'd like more specific info. 0.460" net lift is not that much lift, nor is a stock 340 spring that much pressure. Are we talking stock length, stock size sl/6 valves or other kinds of valves. What is the installed spring height? What is the seat pressure? Have you checked for coil bind at max lift? How is the top end oiling? Is the rocker shaft installed with the oiling holes facing down? How many adjusting screw threads are protruding from the underside of the rocker arms? I am not sure how you'd know if the valves were sticking in the guides until it got really obvious, (as in bad).

fglmopar@aol.com

My installed heights are 1.67/1.70 and I have 95 lbs inseat pressure. I'm still using the stock intake valves and size and small block chevy exhaust valves turned down to 1.450". my cam is 460 lift 268 duration. any suggestions?


craig_o_connor88@hotmail.com

The 1.67" to 1.70" installed height should not give coil bind to a STOCK(OEM)340 spring at .460 lift. Are these OEM 340 springs? Did you physically check for coil bind for each spring AND damper? Is this an hydraulic or solid lifter cam?

lanctof@wsdot.wa.gov

Bud touched on something to check, see if the bottom of the spring retainer gets close to the top of the valve guide "tower".

Most SL6 set-ups are good with stock retainers to about .500 lift, after that the top of the valve guide and / or retainers need to be trimmed to prevent contact.

Assemble the retainer to the valve with-out the spring and open to the advertized lift, measure the room between the retainer and the top of the guide. There should be at least .030 of clearance plus the seal thickness.
(Remember that there is also a valve stem seal that installs in between these two points so measure the stem seal and add-in that thickness)
DD

The cam I have is mopar pn# P452932 mechanical lifter, 460 lift 268 dur and I have the recommended springs 340 springs pn# P4120249. I checked for spring binding and they seem fine also there is lots of oil getting up to the rockers. When I rebuild the engine I did get a used set of pushrods and I checked them for straightness, they seemed to be pretty straight. Could that have the problem there? I see that clifford has chrome-moly pushrods are they worth it?


craig_o_connor88@hotmail.com

I think Clifford gets them from Smith Brothers!
DD

Crome-moly pushrods are great. They are very strong! Therein lies the rub. Right now, you have a "fuse" that bends/ breaks when something goes wrong. If you replace them without sorting out the underlying problem you may end up breaking something much more expensive and harder to fix. Doc has a good suggestion, check the clearance between the bottom of the retainer and the top of the guide boss.