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Soldering help
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Author:  Reed [ Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Soldering help
OK- I am replacing the rectifier bridge on a brand F alternator but I need some help. Specifically, when i go to solder the armature windings to the rectifier bridge, my solder clumps up then falls off. It doesn't stick to the wires or the metal clips of the rectifier bridge.

What the heck am I doing wrong? I admit I took electronics classes in high school and was reasonably proficient, but that was about 14 years ago. Can someone give me a primer on basic soldering technique? Should I be using rosin cored lead-free solder for an alternator? What thickness and type of solder and soldering iron should I be using?
Author:  Mike'68Dart [ Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sounds to me like you are not getting enough heat into the components you are trying to connect. Or there is a "coating" on the conection. Most likely not enough heat. Rosin core is the only thing you should use on an electrical connection, acid core will cause corrosion issues. The solder "clumping" is a sign of a "cold" joint. I would try and use a soldering "gun" and not an iron, most will not create enough heat fast enough to make a good union with as much of a heat sink as you are trying to do. The rest of the armature winding is sucking up the heat and not letting it get hot enough.

I hope this helps.

Mike
Author:  ceej [ Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
X2 on the coating. In order for the windings to be insulated from each other, a coating is applied to the wire. It is some nasty, tenacious stuff.

If your still fighting with it when it's time to come retreive your Christmas Present, and drop off mine, I have a gun and some appropriate solder.

We'll drag Mike into the mess and have him solder it up! :mrgreen:

Something that large I may be able to do, but micro-soldering is in my past I'm afraid. My eyes can't deal with it, even with progressive lenses and a magnifying glass.... :cry:

I trained in high reliability soldering. Such a pain to get old...

CJ
Author:  Reed [ Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks. I scraped the wires down to shiny copper but the solder still isn't sticking. At this point, I suspect my soldering iron is caput. It is so old the tip has burned almost completely away.

Thanks for the offer Ceej, but I actually am fixing this alt for the rig I am driving down there. I'll make a trip to Sears and get a new good quality 40 watt iron next week and try again.
Author:  Fopar [ Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
You might be better with a 2 stage (wattage) gun.
The copper wire will really suck the heat.

Richard
Author:  Reed [ Sat Dec 25, 2010 12:01 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks. I'll see what is on sale in the after-Chrustmas sales and get the best I can find/afford. I'm tired of cheap tools.
Author:  emsvitil [ Sat Dec 25, 2010 2:02 am ]
Post subject: 
You need a higher wattage gun that's triggered controlled.

Also, additional flux may help.
Author:  wjajr [ Sat Dec 25, 2010 10:11 am ]
Post subject: 
Reed,

Big clunky soldering irons are ok for sheet metal and stained glass, low watt dinky pencil irons are fine for circuit boards, but to solder wire of any heft #18 – 8 gage you need a 100/140Watt Weller soldering gun, and some good old “eco terrorâ€￾ lead/tin rosin core solder. Lead free & silver solder will work, but they require higher heat, higher cleaning standards, and have different, (I think undesirable) flow characteristics compared to the old lead formulations.

As others have stated, you haven’t been getting your joint hot enough, 140 watts will do the job in a few seconds. Mechanically** clean each surface to be soldered, twist or other wise connect the two components so that they won’t fall apart than solder’em up. Once the solder flows shinny, without moving the joint, remove heat and let cool.

I have been using a [url=http://www.shop.com/Weller+8200+Universal+Soldering+Gun+-386061681-o+.xhtml] Weller gun[/url] for over forty years for this kind of work, they are the best for automotive & house wiring, and not too expensive at around 30 bucks. It is a must have tool…

** cleaning with emery paper, or by scraping until shiny. Rosin will finish the cleaning process chemically when it is heated, and doesn’t cause corrosion like an acid flux will.

Bill
Author:  4speed [ Sat Dec 25, 2010 10:23 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I'll make a trip to Sears and get a new good quality 40 watt iron next week and try again.
Sears ? Quality? No get a Weller dual range gun. I have used one for decades and no problems. Just keep your nuts tight.
Author:  Reed [ Sat Dec 25, 2010 10:52 am ]
Post subject: 
That's what I am thinking. Sears sells Weller brand. I am also going to troll Craigslist.
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