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 Post subject: Engine Head advice.
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:11 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 8:38 pm
Posts: 454
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So I have around $1000 to spend.
And I'm getting head work done.

Thinking bigger valves the 1.77 and 1.44 valves.
Going to shave the head for higher compression 9.5 : 1
It's already been ported and polished.
Assuming that the head is in good condition what else should I do, that's worth it...?
Guessing their is no point upgrading springs etc as the engine won't turn over 6000 etc.

cheers


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:27 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 794
Location: clearwater florida
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Bowl blending? I made good headway in that area on my head
competition vlaved job for those bigger valves doesn't sound like much else to do if it's already been ported and polished.
what other modifications to the motor are you doing? A more aggressive cam would probably help the head work go to good use.
Kev

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:00 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 8:38 pm
Posts: 454
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How much do you think the bowl blending will cost...?
Main goal is to make sure it's running on unleaded fuel so that's what this is about it just happens that it's not much more expensive for the other things.

Once I get it back I believe a 500cfm edlebrook 4bbl carb will be going into the mix.

last update will be a more aggressive cam yes, not sure if I am going to go for higher RPM or for more torque.

Then that's it for the engine should be good, and should hit around 225 HP. It's similar to a build that was posted recently in a magazine thing...Doug helped out on that one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:05 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 9:31 pm
Posts: 251
Location: Western Australia
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Hardened valve seats................goes without saying really. :)



Edit: just read your second post there Brussel, you'll need the valve seats done to run on unleaded. It's almost mandatory with head work these days.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:45 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 8:38 pm
Posts: 454
Car Model:
Sorry should have mentioned, will be getting the appropriate guides valves hardened seats etc.

Total cost I think quoted for
Making the car unleaded compliant, including bigger valves.
shaving the head to get higher comp
Around $700.
Perhaps the bowl blending isn't that important...?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:45 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 9:19 am
Posts: 25
Location: socal
Car Model:
if just doing the bigger valves, I would shim the stock springs some [vsi's]

another 10 lbs over stock is good....

or for around $50 you can get some 340 springs and be ready for any future cam change.

just a thought

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 Post subject: -
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 11:23 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2008 5:01 pm
Posts: 516
Location: Taneytown, MD
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engine builder 1.70 intake,1.44 exhaust valves seem like a good buy.and you should buy new valve springs to match the cam you intend to use.I'm not much of a fan of mickey-mouse shimming 100,000-200,000 mile OEM springs to increase the RPM range.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 11:53 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Do the porting yourself

http://www.scribd.com/doc/9572222/head- ... -abrasives

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject: Re: -
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:00 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 9:19 am
Posts: 25
Location: socal
Car Model:
Quote:
engine builder 1.70 intake,1.44 exhaust valves seem like a good buy.and you should buy new valve springs to match the cam you intend to use.I'm not much of a fan of mickey-mouse shimming 100,000-200,000 mile OEM springs to increase the RPM range.
me neither, but at least he's aware of what you need when using a bigger heavier valve that will also slightly increase the rpm range=more spring pressure.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 3:34 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 794
Location: clearwater florida
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ya the bolw blending is a piece of cake at least i thought so specially bigger valves are gonna need unshrouding, and when the machine shop cuts for the bigger valve their will be like a cliff all the way around the bowl if that makes sense?

Kev

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:14 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
Posts: 2281
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Car Model:
Go from this

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To this


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Richard

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 6:43 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
Go from this

Image

To this


Image

Richard

Wow, you've even switched the intake and exhaust valves............


:twisted:

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 6:54 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
Posts: 2281
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Car Model:
emsvitil

Yes and it even runs backwards :lol: :lol: :lol:

Richard

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 10:39 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:57 am
Posts: 1567
Location: Oslo, Norway
Car Model:
emsvitil, that's for use in countries south of the equator, the swirl changes direction there... :lol:

Olaf.

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Aspenized


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 5:42 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5612
Location: Downeast Maine
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A few years ago after porting my head, I than had oversized valves installed. The machinist blended the larger valve cut without asking, which took the pressure off of my hand not to hit the fresh oversized valve seat with a sanding cone…

Bowl blending is just a rounding & smoothing of that sharp edged transition between the underside of new larger cut, and the bowl. It doesn’t take long, have him do it, save that freshly cut seat from a missplacement of the die grinder.

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