3/4-16 x 1.5" long.
Head off is a lot easier, but it can be done with some creativity. Just make sure the creativity is stable.
CJ
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| Need help attaching degree wheel & related equipment. https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43255 |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sat Jan 15, 2011 3:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Need help attaching degree wheel & related equipment. |
The only directions with this degree kit I got involves the math & calculation of cam timing, not physical attachment & manipulation of the equipment. Having never performed this degree procedure before, I’m a bit at a loss as to the best way to assemble & attach this equipment. The math I can figure out. What size bolt threads into the end of crank shaft through harmonic balance? I can’t see it well enough, and don’t have an assortment of larger diameter bolts to try. Also there are three bolts located at 120 degrees securing the twin fan belt pulleys, should these holes be used to attach the degree wheel with longer bolts? Any tricks for turning over engine with belts removed, and harmonic balancer & double pulley in place? Is there some way to double nut a crank bolt to get a breaker bar on to the crank for easy smooth turning in both directions with degree wheel in place? This engine dose not turn over easily, I think because of heavy valve springs. Any hint as to a good mounting location for magnetic dial indicator base when valve train is fully installed? I can’t find a spot for a rock solid mount on top of head, or should I stop being so damn lazy and just remove rocker shaft? Befuddled, and one year older… Bill |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sat Jan 15, 2011 5:23 pm ] |
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Bill, Read Ceej's link on Degreeing a Cam under Engine FAQ. Great pictures...http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39069 Ceej just needs to add the bolt size for the end of the crank. You can see from the Ceej's pics where the degree wheel bolts on. I think the crank shaft bolt is a fine threaded 3/4" diameter. Did you pull the spark plugs? That will help it turn over a little easier..... Make sure tranny is in park/neutral..... |
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| Author: | ceej [ Sat Jan 15, 2011 5:55 pm ] |
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3/4-16 x 1.5" long. Head off is a lot easier, but it can be done with some creativity. Just make sure the creativity is stable. CJ |
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| Author: | ceej [ Sat Jan 15, 2011 6:42 pm ] |
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I took fifteen minutes and built a fixture to mount a dial indicator on the head. It's been added at the end of the degreeing a cam FAQ. Here's the pic:  2" x 1/8" piece of scrap flat stock steel I had laying around. CJ |
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| Author: | olafla [ Sun Jan 16, 2011 1:56 am ] |
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Hi Bill. To be exact, the crankshaft vibration dampener bolt is 3/4"-16 UNF, 2.3 inches long, with a 1.5 inches minimum length threaded area. You will also need a thick washer, the washer is 1-15/16" x 1/4". summitracing.com: part number DCC-5249557AB Mopar Performance #P5249557AB - Mopar Performance Harmonic Balancer Bolts 3/4-16 x 2.250 inch (underhead) Now call in the camera crew and switch on the lamps: we want pics! Olaf. |
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| Author: | olafla [ Sun Jan 16, 2011 2:09 am ] |
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Remember to confirm the zero degree marking for ignition adjustment in the harmonic balancer while you have the indicator dial mounted. Olaf. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:26 am ] |
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CJ, I don’t want to pull head just yet. I like your scrap plate method. Must have had too much cake yesterday, as I never gave that solution a thought… I’m blaming it in the age-o-meter rolling over once too many times, and not on all the pounds of bacon consumed plugging my plumbing in the old noggin… Never blame the pork products... Ted, plugs are pulled. I can’t rotate crank pulley by hand; she is a stiff old girl. When the fan is mounted, I can rotate the crank counter clock ways using it as a lever, or torque multiplier, with plugs installed, but it is far from a smooth precise action. I have to figure a way to mount the wheel, and still be able to roll engine over smoothly with a breaker bar. Bill |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Sun Jan 16, 2011 7:19 am ] |
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Is the motor still in the car? It will be a nightmare trying to get the degree wheel zero'd if it is. I have a longer 3/4" bolt I use along with nuts and thick washers. I can lock the bolt into the crank so it will turn, and capture the wheel with the nuts and washers so it will stay in place too. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Jan 16, 2011 7:31 am ] |
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Zilla: Yup, engine is in car, with peanut head, so easy lifter tool method won’t work. I have been figuring how many nuts, washers, perhaps bushings I will need to lock bolt to crank so I can turn it with a breaker bar, and still mount the wheel over the double pulley. Hopefully I can find a bolt threaded its entire length long enough to get the job done. Bill |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Sun Jan 16, 2011 9:45 am ] |
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Find TDC #1 Mark TDC on the damper Mebbe drill and tap the centre of your crank bolt for a 1/4" NF cap screw that fastens the wheel. You may need bushings or washers to make this precise. Bolt on your wheel. Index it to your pointer. You need to index the wheel to the damper.( Mebbe drill a little hole for a small screw.) Remove the wheel. Roller Over till you get .050 lift. Replace the wheel . Reindex to your damper.....read and record your specs at the pointer. Remove wheel. Otherwise you will mangle the new wheel trying to rollerover using a breaker bar. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:35 pm ] |
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Can you leave the fan belt on? Then turn the engine over with the nut on the alternator............ |
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| Author: | ceej [ Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:48 pm ] |
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With the valve spring rates you were telling me about it's probably going to be a pain to turn the engine regardless. Pull the rocker shaft, carefully remove the push rods making sure you don't pull the lifters out of the bores. Use a long indicator extension in the lifter's push rod pocket. With plugs out and the springs out of the equation, you should be able to roll the engine over easily enough. CJ |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Jan 16, 2011 1:33 pm ] |
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CJ, Mrs. A & I managed to burn the afternoon visiting brother in-law at hospital, shopping Sam’s Club, Wally World, and last stop; Home Depot, which has no ¾-16 bolts or threaded rod. So tomorrow, it is off to an industrial-automotive supply house for required hardware. This farting around, scrounging these few simple items, is starting to drive me nuts. Ed, with the help of CJ, I have worked out a method of attaching the wheel, and roll over the crank in either direction without repeated remounts & indexing. Bill |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:14 pm ] |
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Today I cobbled up the necessary equipment to degree my mystery cam. Items gathered: A length of ¾†-16 threaded rod cut down to 5 ½â€. 4 - 3/4th “ nuts 2 – 3/4th “ washers One chunk of left over foam gasket material from rebuilding the heater box cut to form a large 1/8†thick 3/4th†washer to snug degree wheel to fan belt pulley, but still allow the wheel to be turned to final adjustment. A 3 x 4 inch chunk of 20 gage sheet metal for magnetic dial indicator attachment to head. Threaded rod into end of crank until it bottomed, nutted one washer to pulley to lock rod in place. Slid on foam washer, Degree Wheel, 3/4th†“O†ring, second washer, and a nut to compress wheel to foam washer. At radiator end of rod double nutted to provide a place for a wrench to roll over engine in both directions. [img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/Dart%20Engine/100_1371.jpg[/img] [img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/Dart%20Engine/100_1370.jpg[/img] The 20 gage was bolted to head using one of the valve cover bolts. [img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/Dart%20Engine/100_1372.jpg[/img] All went swimmingly until I pulled one of the lifters out of its socket, and it laid over on its side under the Peanut Head. Yeah it’s the one with little push rod holes… I may have to pull the head to re-seat the lifter… Where I was too lazy to pull the head in the first place, I had to cobble up some type of device that the dial indicator could ride on top of a push rod. Using a scrap “Copper to Pecs tubing†male adapter, I was able to provide a stable point of contact for the dial indicator’s tip to ride in. [img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/Dart%20Engine/100_1368.jpg[/img] See glob of solder with drill hole on tubing end of adapter. [img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/Dart%20Engine/100_1369.jpg[/img] |
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