I have seen recommendations to improve the slant six engine oiling for:
oil pump gear, by running a dedicated line, timing chain, by drilling a jet in the front galley plug, lifters & cam by chamfering the lifter bore and restricting flow,, maybe I have missed it, but I have not seen anyone comment on improving rod oiling by running two upper main shells, as mentioned in the slant six performance article

In high speed, fully modified engines provision must be made for more oil flow through the main bearings to the rod bearings. One way to achieve this is to groove the crankshaft. A better way is to use the upper main bearing shells in the main caps. (It will be necessary to file down the locating tabs to allow the grooves to align.) These tabs merely locate the bearings. The tabs do not prevent rotation; the inserts are "crushed" by the cap to prevent rotation.

anyone doing this?

thanks

Several of the board users are doing this (Seymour, Charlie, Doc...), but this is only really recommended or needed for an all out engine (6000+ RPM).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I use a Few of the Oil Mods, Especially the Standoffs in the Lifter Galley and The Honing of the lifter bores..


I Do run two Lower bearing halves in my race engine.. I just use a die grinder to remove the tabs and stick them in the upper bearing half.

these mods are only needed in race only type engines.. Street engines mostly are fine with out these mods as Lou said.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

thanks

I had the crank full grooved for full time rod oiling.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

i have seen your posts, so I know you are running some real boost,
so why did you choose to groove the crank?
Is it so you could run the standard lower all the way around to get better bearing stability?

I figured it was less expensive than buying two sets of bearings if I have to take it apart. There is plenty of crank strength so that was not a concern. The groove is not that deep and cost something like $50 while at the crank grinding shop..

_________________
11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

That's what I used to do, except I didn't file the tabs. I modified the notch in the main cap. Just do that one time, instead of doing the bearings every time. Now I do my lower main bearing similar to Doc, except where he does a partial groove, I do a full groove. A lot less money then 2 sets of bearings.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

That's what I used to do, except I didn't file the tabs. I modified the notch in the main cap. Just do that one time, instead of doing the bearings every time. Now I do my lower main bearing similar to Doc, except where he does a partial groove, I do a full groove. A lot less money then 2 sets of bearings.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Would this be a suitable modification for an open road racing engine , vs drag racing?

I'm talking about sanctioned, legal events, not speeding or street racing. Sustained speeds, say averaging 80-100 MPH, occasional hills and turns, 60 miles per run, two runs per event, with some shorter practice sessions leading up to the event. Many racers drive to and from the event.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I would say yes. But more important would be to control the oil in the pan, with a deeper sump/baffles/pickup, etc. No mater what you do to improve the engine oiling system, it does no good, if the oil doesn't get there.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I agree that this should be good for an open road car.

Shaker, how deep is your groove?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

It isn't that deep....It has been a while...maybe .050".

_________________
11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Dude, that' Groovy.


Sorry Couldnt resist

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yep, groove-tastic. Interesting - 0.050" was just the number that I thought would be good when I asked. Thanks, Tom.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988