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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:18 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:21 pm
Posts: 52
Location: long beach ca
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and i need to mentally prepare myself for when they arrive. theyre going into my 1973 dodge b200 shorty van, i just put in a holley 2280 2 bbl carb. so! ive been doing my research and found a previous topic when the doc posted a picture of a Y pipe he made. saying that the pipes should be equal length, coming into the collector at the same spot and that the collector must be 10" to 14" long.

heres the pic
Image

so, has any of that changed? ill be going to a muffler shop and have no previous experience with things like this. if i tell them i need a y pipe like this made to fit my van can they, or is there one online?

i appreciate any help! ive been making a lot of progress on my van the last few months and this is an exciting step.

frankie


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:35 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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Purchase one of the Flowmaster Y pipes and give it to the muffler shop to install.
http://pitstopusa.com/i-5061407-flowmas ... 2-1-2.html

Keep at least one of the slip-fit primary pipes a "slip fit" into the Y pipe.
(I keep the front pipe as the removal section)
Cut a slit in the entry tube and use a clamp to hold / seal it, this allow enough adjustment / movement to keep the pipe to mainifold gaskets fully compressed.
DD

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:09 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:21 pm
Posts: 52
Location: long beach ca
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if i want to run a dual exhaust system, would i just split it again after the Y?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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If you are routing 2 separate pipes, you may want to use an "X" pipe or "H" design.
Either way, just be sure you have some form of cross-over connection or the system will drone at highway speeds.
DD

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 2:49 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24934
Location: North America
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Quote:
Keep at least one of the slip-fit primary pipes a "slip fit" into the Y pipe.
(I keep the front pipe as the removal section)
Cut a slit in the entry tube and use a clamp to hold / seal it, this allow enough adjustment / movement to keep the pipe to mainifold gaskets fully compressed.
Do you keep this pipe section removable, relying on the clamp for the permanent seal? Or do you mean leave it this way until the pipeworks are all bolted up and installed in the car and make it the last weld joint?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 4:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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I keep the section removeable for two reasons:
- I can remove the front pipe if I need to replace the engine.
- The slip-fit "cup" with clamp allows position "fine-tuning" for even clamping force on the pipe to manifold gaskets... and still gives a good seal.

Example: The first DD set-up I did was on my 66 Dart wagon and I welded all the pipes together.
Guess what... it's a "pain" to swap the engine in that car, with the front pipe hanging where it is and that car Burns / blows-out manifold to pipe gaskets, about once every year or so.

I did slip joint connections on two other cars since then and have none of these issues.
DD

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Thanks -- good advice!

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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