Hi Guys,

Not really sure which thread this should go in, but it's engine related so here I guess

I'm looking to buy a dial back timing light. I know what they are for but not how they work. Any info?
Just wondering, how do they work (never used a dial back)?
Do I need to have a tachometer with me?
Or can they automatically work at different engine speeds?
Recommended makes?

Any info on them would be great.

Thanks a lot guys,
60Ply

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1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker

Generally the dial back lights have a dial on the back of the light that has an arrow that points to a dial indicating 0-60 or so. The dial is the "dial back" portion of the "dial back timing light" title. Basically you put the motor at whatever RPM you want and move the dial on the back of the timing light until the timing mark on the motor points to TDC. Then you look at where the dial is pointing on the timing light and that is how many degrees the timing is advanced.

I don't know how the timing light is accurate between 4, 6, and 8 cylinder engines, or how it knows how much advance is being added without a tach or a selector for the number of cylinders, but it works!

click me for a cheap dial back timing light

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

You needn't spend the money, if you don't want to — you can use a regular timing light and just prep your crank pulley per this post

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi Guys,

Dan, I have seen this post before, and it is the way I will go if I can't do any better than a traditional timing light. But since I need to get a light anyway, I figured I can go a little further and get hold of a DB. Ebay has a bunch in the UK going for little more than a standard strobe, so maybe worth a shot.

Just to clarify, no tachometer is needed to work with the light? That's what I picked up from your post Reed, and I have to agree, I don't get how it'd work either (original reason for posting ). Must be magic or somthing fiendishly clever.

Thanks guys,
60Ply

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1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker

High end dial back timing lights have little faeries in them and come with a bag of faery dust. The faeries will do their job without the dust, but sometimes get grumpy and the light won't work.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Brand name ones are good to go with, but lately some of them are assembled in China...

I have an Acctron model that is digital... you use your thumb to dial it up or back, and you can hit the tach button to see what rpm you're at if needed, without looking up from the damper while trying to squint at the tach set you just set on the passenger fender....

I'm still trying to find a model that a buddy had that didn't need the 'dial back' the LCD readout shows advance (without the need for dial back), and rpm both at the same time.

Good luck on your hunt.

-D.idiot

my tool truck one (Mac) has a tach built in. No need to switch from 4-6-8 cyl either.

I've used a craftsman dialback for quite some time. It was pretty cheap compaired to Snap-on or mac and works well.

I use a Craftsman dial-back light. It works great, and for the price you can't beat it. A digital one would be pretty sweet.

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I have a Snap On and love it.

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Thanks Mike

The lights work at whatever rpm you are running as long as hooked up correctly. Accuracy is down to the particular light specs. Saw an article some time ago where some of the expensive name lights were no better than some of the more budget ones. Most have an accuracy stated on them for you to at least shop by.

Then comes ease of use. Mine has the twist knob dial on the back. Makes it sort of fun running the rpm up on the carb with one hand, running the light with the other and then end up twisting the dial with my chin while watching the timing mark as can't operate the light and reach the dial with the same hand. Looks rather odd, but works for me I guess.

Using the light is very useful. I would suggest that you get some sort of tacho though to get full advantage out of it. That way you can check advance at cruise rpm etc. etc. Also helps in mapping out your timing curve if you so desire. Those lights with the built in tacho in them look really nice. Someday I'll get one of those perhaps. Everything is budget for me though.

Cheers

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From Mopars to classic Minis and back to Mopars in 19 years flat!

Will work for roast chicken crisps!!

Reed, I have the cheep light you suggest, it is not a great light. the money would be better spent on a used working name brand light. I have that one and one from Mac tools, the Mac light is much more accurate.


TopHat

I think you can learn from my experiences- three lights in order of purchase:

The first was a chrome smooth look light it came with an alligator for the +side of battery and needed some sort of adaptor that plugged inbetween the light and the #1 sparkplug. The adaptor and I never saw one for sale. I lost hope and also lost the reciept, never did get it running.

The second was a hand me down- in the digital dial back style described above. I was told that "I think it works, you just have to re-splice the trigger wire because it got caught in the fan..." I spliced it and it worked great, flashed a strobe, dialed back digitally, and everything. The problem was that while it had numbers displayed, and buttons that did stuff, it would only strobe at one speed, which would show the timing marks slipping backwards and forewards all over the scale as the occilations of the motor peaked and valleyed against the constant strobe of the broken light. It was pretty maddening for a minute before I figured out what was going on!

Then I bought one that is chrome, but with a more cast metal look with a black knob on the back that dials back. The pickup clips around any spot on the #1 plug wire, and has lasted a few years now. It cost more than fifty but less than eighty bucks.

Good luck!

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madam im adam

my dial-back light is a Ferret 86 model, bought for $299CDN+tx, regularly retails for $350-400 and is also rebranded by OTC and sold for around the same price. it is most commonly used for assembly line or professional tune-up work and checks dwell, RPM and timing on two- or four-cycle engines and dynamic voltage to within a tenth of a volt. i have been using mine on a weekly to daily basis for about ten years.

this light is essential for taking regular no-start or rough-running calls on distributor-fired industrial engines. switching back and forth between RPM and timing makes setting timing a breeze. the two-stroke function is also handy for outboard marine engines double-ended coil systems and points-fired small engines. i only use the voltmeter for mechanical fitness inspections. i only use the dialback function on old forklift or welder engines that either have no timing mark or only one pointer on the timing cover. if your timing pointer is missing or illegible you can make your new timing mark at 0* with a new pointer fashioned out of sheetmetal, and use the dialback to set your advance. i often do this on engines with no pointer or a pointer in a foolish or inaccessible location. set the pointer mark anywhere, establish TDC and mark it on the pulley, then dialback time to specification.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

I've been told that the dail back timing light are not accurate with HEI ignitions. According to Ignitionman they will usually be off by 4 or 5 degrees at 36 degrees advance. The only way to be certain you've got it right is by putting a degree tape on the balancer and using the light "straight up".