Hey guys so im just wondering what all would i have to do to turbo my slant? Just out of curiousity. It wouldnt be big just a small turbo. With a super six conversion and 2bbl and of coarse ignition upgrade. I know the basics turbo (of coarse) oil line for turbo, is a bov optional or would i need one too? And would a turbo be able to mount to a stock exhaust manifold? i doubt id run an inercooler. May go with a custom cam. But would i need stronger valves, springs (without a custom cam), how big of 2bbl? What would be the simplest turbo setup for low budget and every day driver? Just had the thought about doing it and was wondering.

Thanks for the info!
Cody

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Depends on if you want a blow through or a draw thru setup. The BOV is kind of optional but with a blow through setup you can have compressor surge if you dont have one to blow the charge out of the charge piping which would go back through the system trying to spin the turbo backwards, their cheap and they sound cool so really a big deal. Every cam i've used i upgraded the valve springs but if it a mild cam which most turbo cams are i'm sure stock springs would do their job. Never had any 2bbls but i'm sure something between 350-500cfm if its a low boost daily driver with a small turbo id say smaller the better for mileage with the carb. Theres alot to doing a turbo setup more so then the basic "oil line for the turbo" just do a bunch of reading on the sight of others builds and other sites with good turbo information because once you get the thing running it won't be as easy to tune as a normal motor if you dont have some way of fuel enrichment under boost. People have used the stock manifold pretty often for turbo setups because it's already a 6into 1 setup then all u gotta do i mount the turbo to the manifold either using a flange of extending with pipe then bolting the turbo to that if that makes sense. As far as simple i think any turbo setup has its tricks and simple aspects blow thru will be more piping unless not using an intercooler draw thru seems easier to pipe.

Kev

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I've never done this, but I know someone who has.

Here's what I remember about his project:

Stock cam need not be replaced... works great. as is.
Might want to replace the valve springs with some a little stronger (but, not much.) Stock 340 springs waould probably work well.

Many people have welded the turbo mounting flange to the stock, cast iron manifold, successfully.

My friend used a junk-yard Buick G/N turbo.... cheap.

He used an unknown 2bbl carb on a Super Six manifold with no intercooler at all, and no water/meth injection.

Stock ignition was more than adequate. 18 degrees of total spark advance (initial plus mechanical advance) Yes, 18 (no typo).

The carb will need to be modified for blow-thru usage.

A drain-back hose will deliver oil from the turbo to the oil pan.

Colder spark plugs (withhout an extended tip) will be desirable.

Some sort of an air cleaner will be necessary.

A pickup truck has a lot more room under the hood than a car; space for this stuff should not be a problem.

Might be a good idea to run premium fuel.

My friend did this to a '70 Dart Swinger and the result was a time slip from the drag strip that read 102mph, and a 12.95 e.t.

Your truck might not be quite that fast, but 340 Dusters (stock ones, at least) shouldn't be any problem for your newly-invigotated pickup.

It will be "peppy," for sure....

Bill

ok thanks for the info guys!

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

It seems that a popular Holley 2bbl carb for this is the 2300 series. They are just like 1/2 of a 4150-4160, and come in both 300 and 500 cfm. There are several websites showing how to mod them for blow-thru.

The problem with the stock slant 6 valve springs is age. These engines haven't been made for some years now, and the stock springs in them are probably pretty worn (unless you are lucky enough to find an engine that's been stored for 25 years). Also, particularly in higher boost levels, they may have trouble keeping the valves closed against the boost. One fix is to buy some new 340 valve springs and use those. Even with those, some guys here like Shaker shims them a bit.

You'll need to create a source of oil for the turbo as well as the drainback. Also, if you are running more then 10lbs of boost without an intercooler, you may get some detonation. Water, or water/meth injection is the fix, and is easier to do then most people think.

I'm currently trying to figure out the easiest way to retard the stock ignition if necessary.
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Polkat,

In case you're not aware of it, MSD markets an ignition component that replaces your orange or chrome M-P electronic ignition module and features a dash-mounted control knob that is a 4-position knob that will instruct the unit to retard your timing; 1, not at all, 2, a degree for every pound of boost it "sees" 3, two degrees for every pound of boost it "sees", or 4, three degrees for every pound of boost it "sees," up tp a maximum of 15 degrees of retard in each mode (1,2,or 3.)

It's called an MSD BoostMaster.

I have one on my car and it works great.

It's an analog (as opposed to digital) module that is NOT a multiple spark discharge ignition system, but puts out 42,000 volts, which seems to be plenty for my (10 pounds of boost) purposes.

The hookup is pretty straightforward, You have to run a boost-reference line (to tell it what the manifold pressure is) from the manifold to the unit, itself. Piece of cake...

Hope this helps.

Bill

Cool! I'll check that out!
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