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Stupid Question
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Author:  Brussell [ Wed May 11, 2011 12:16 am ]
Post subject:  Stupid Question
Hey,

Just put a 350 holley on my slant, had just rebuilt the carb, adapted my manifold etc, car started for a second and died (All good pretty sure it was because of some fuel alreayd in the cylinders and carb cleaner in the runners.

I haven't attatched the kickdown or accelerator cable does this mean the car will not start at all? (This is the stupid question) I have also attatched no springs or anything to the carb.

Otherwise I have a problem :/

Thanks!
Author:  Pierre [ Wed May 11, 2011 1:28 am ]
Post subject: 
The kickdown and accelerator linkage won't make a difference. Did you cap any unused hose barbs? If not each will act like a vacuum leak. You may have to crank a while for the fuel pump to fill a dry bowl.
Author:  Brussell [ Wed May 11, 2011 2:12 am ]
Post subject: 
Yeah I did, though it leaks in the linkages area though.

If I look down the carb and turn the acc linkages fuel squirts out, I thought this would mean the bowl is full?

Guess I'll fix the vacc leak (anything special here I should know?) and give her a go, I'll let her crank alot more.

I'm quite sure there is spark, as the car did originally start for a while.

Thanks!
Author:  wjajr [ Wed May 11, 2011 6:00 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I haven't attatched the kickdown or accelerator cable does this mean the car will not start at all? (This is the stupid question) I have also attatched no springs or anything to the carb.


First I would connect the throttle return spring to prevent engine from over-reving once it starts.

Than connect choke, and if it is electrical leave black choke cover loose for fine tuning choke closure & pull-off.

Depending on how you are going to start the engine, from under hood with remote started switch, or cockpit I would also connect accelerator cable as well.

You can pre fill the fuel bowl by dribbling fuel down the bowl vent tube. It’s the stack pointing straight up with a 45* angle cut. A catsup / mustard squirt plastic bottle works real good. Don’t forget to fill the secondary bowl as well, because that half of the carburetor has its own idle circuit as well.

Once the fuel bowls are full, the engine will run long enough to self prim fuel pump without having to grind & grind the starter.

Before you turn over engine; by hand, simulate a cold start by rolling open the throttle by hand about ½ to ¾ open and release it to set choke, and high idle. By now the choke plate should have snapped shut and be fully seated.

Once the engine starts, the choke plate should open around ¼ inch or 4-5mm if adjusted correctly, and continue to slowly fully open as engine warms up.

You will have to mess around for a while getting choke and high idle diled in for a few cold starts.

Bill
Author:  Brussell [ Wed May 11, 2011 6:44 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks,

Hmm about the choke I bought this second hand and as far as I can tell it's just been siliconed so that the plate is always open (hopefully you get what I mean?) It's generally quite warm here I guess, I plan to fix this soon.

The linkages were set so that the two round things in the bottom of the carb were shut (sorry I'm not technical).

I didn't know the carb had two fuel bowls?

I'll connect the A cable and return spring in next few days.

Anything I'm missing? Thanks for the help!
Author:  THOR [ Wed May 11, 2011 11:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Your Carb has only one fuel bowl. The two screws at the bottom you speak of are likely the idle mixture screws. If they are screwed in all the way, that's why your car dies. Back them out about 2 turns and see if it starts, then tune from there.

You must have a throttle return spring on there for safety sake.

Both of my cars have a 350 Holley, and if I could find another one, so would my fiancée's valiant.

Happy tuning!

~RDE~
Author:  wjajr [ Wed May 11, 2011 3:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sorry, I misread 350 to be 390 which is a four barrel, not a two barrel such as your 350 is. Got to bump screen up to 150%, or get new glasses.

So disregard the following:
Quote:
Don’t forget to fill the secondary bowl as well, because that half of the carburetor has its own idle circuit as well.
The rest of what I wrote could apply as it is just a laundry list of things to consider. Also following Thor’s idle screw adjustment is a good thing to check.
Author:  Brussell [ Wed May 11, 2011 9:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
ahh the two things I mean are the circle things prob 1" diameter one for each barrel (not sure on the name), but they open and shut due to the linkage. You can see them open and shut when you look down the carb and accelerate.

The two idle screws you mentioned with them both being on opposite sides of each other, have been turned in all the way and then out around 2 turns.

I am thinking perhaps some metal shards ( I was doing alot of grinding and drilling) may have lodged itself somewhere in the carb? (Is this possible) so I will pull it apart if I don't have any luck.

The opening at the top of the carb that is on a 45 degree angle, do I put fuel in that to "prime" as mentioned above? I'm wondering that if fuel can go straight to that how come it doesn't have to be blocked for possible vacc leak?

Thanks !
Author:  wjajr [ Thu May 12, 2011 4:51 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
ahh the two things I mean are the circle things prob 1" diameter one for each barrel (not sure on the name),
Those are the throttle plates. They control flow of air into engine.
Quote:
The two idle screws you mentioned with them both being on opposite sides of each other, have been turned in all the way and then out around 2 turns.
Good, that is just a starting point, fine adjustment will need to be made after engine can run at idle.
Quote:
I am thinking perhaps some metal shards ( I was doing alot of grinding and drilling) may have lodged itself somewhere in the carb? (Is this possible)
Possible, but air borne junk won’t plug internal passages. Worst case some of the grit landed on throttle plate, and has now been sucked through engine during last starting.

Quote:
The opening at the top of the carb that is on a 45 degree angle, do I put fuel in that to "prime" as mentioned above?
I believe that your 350cc 2V carburetor is mostly the same as the front half of a 390 4V as pictured below. Mustard squirt bottle is sticking into fuel bowl vent where one can dribble in fuel for that first dry start after carburetor has been off for service.

Image

Quote:
I'm wondering that if fuel can go straight to that how come it doesn't have to be blocked for possible vacc leak?

Picture removing your toilet tank’s cover, seeing that it is empty, and not filling due to no water pressure. In there is a ball cock valve that will shut off water flow when its level reaches a pre set height or depth. All this is open to atmosphere.

This toilet tank example is the same set-up that is in your carburetor’s fuel bowl: an inlet supplying fuel under pressure; a float valve to control fuel level; and a vent higher than fuel level to atmosphere.

When priming the fuel bowl through its vent tube, one is doing the same thing as dumping a bucket of water into a dry toilet tank. Having a full fuel bowl will allow engine to run long enough to cycle mechanical fuel pump to prime its self, and draw fuel from gas tank, refilling fuel bowl just as before it runs dry.

Quote:
I'm wondering that if fuel can go straight to that how come it doesn't have to be blocked for possible vacc leak?
Vacuum leaks are on the low pressure side of throttle plates, in other words from under side of throttle plates, and intake manifold. Above throttle plates there is air flow which creates low pressure in the venturi* which pulls fuel into the air stream.

* That little barrel shaped thing in the middle when looking down into the carburetor.
Author:  Brussell [ Thu May 12, 2011 7:25 am ]
Post subject: 
Thankyou very much for the detailed response!

I will hopefully get her working again in the next 24 hours (it's nearly 1am atm)

Will let you know how it goes and what my prob was.
Author:  Brussell [ Mon May 16, 2011 1:34 am ]
Post subject: 
Hey,

So one issue was that the car was out of petrol.
That the car battery had died (from me trying to pump no existant fuel to the carb).
Throttle return spring is now installed.
One of the port block of things wasn't working good enough (was just a little to big.

Where can I find the stuff I need to rebush or rebuild the linkages area I have a leak that petrol is coming out of. I believe you would call it the throttle shaft rod...? (Rod that goes through the carb pretty long)

Haven't been able to start the car properly yet, not enough fuel reaching the carb, I'll be getting another 5L tomorrow and I might squirt some into the filter etc.

Any other knowledge you guys can lay on me will be helpful and appreciated.
Author:  SV162 [ Tue May 17, 2011 2:33 am ]
Post subject: 
These pages have helped me a lot. There's also a heap of helpful Holley setup/tuning videos on youtube.

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Tec ... 0-7rev.pdf

http://www.holley.com/TechService/FAQ.a ... Carburetor
Author:  SV162 [ Tue May 17, 2011 2:36 am ]
Post subject: 
Here's some more. :)

http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/ ... 20View.pdf

http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/ ... 20Info.pdf
Author:  Mroldfart2u [ Tue May 17, 2011 7:46 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Hey,


Where can I find the stuff I need to rebush or rebuild the linkages area I have a leak that petrol is coming out of. I believe you would call it the throttle shaft rod...? (Rod that goes through the carb pretty long)
The average DIY'er can't... Thats usually the time to replace the carb. A rebuild of carb will NOT fix that problem, and it is also a source for a vacuum leak as well.
Quote:
Haven't been able to start the car properly yet, not enough fuel reaching the carb, I'll be getting another 5L tomorrow and I might squirt some into the filter etc.

Any other knowledge you guys can lay on me will be helpful and appreciated.
Am not for sure what you are referring to, (5L) but I would do a fuel pump check if after filling the carb to prime and still no fuel. Shouldn't take but one carb bowl full of gas @ idle to pull fuel from tank to carb. (that is if you have enough gas in the tank)
Author:  Brussell [ Thu May 19, 2011 7:41 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the advice, I will get the bottom part rebuilt.
5Liters so just a regular can of petrol in australia.
thanks.
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