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If the timing chain was a tooth off...
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Author:  Force Fed Mopar [ Tue May 17, 2011 1:57 pm ]
Post subject:  If the timing chain was a tooth off...
What would the symptoms be?
Author:  Mroldfart2u [ Tue May 17, 2011 2:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hard/no start, no power, dist timing not effectively helping, back-firing, to name a few... Describe your problems, and what has been done... Someone out there can and will help...
Author:  sandy in BC [ Tue May 17, 2011 3:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
If your car idles like a sewing machine....has 1400ft/lbs of off idle torque but cant rev past 1600 rpm.....you may have jumped a tooth.

My wife and I went on a 300 mile day trip to Mica . The Valiant jumped a tooth 10 miles out. I reset the ignition timing by ear. It turned out to be a 100F day .....so we cruised at 25 mph in 5th gear....with the windows down and stopped at every beach. The thing ran like a clock.

Things work out.

I got in more of a hurry later and installed a new chain.......

If it is installed a tooth-er-too the other way ,,,, you have no low end torque. Refuse to idle. Power band starts at 4500rpm. Slllllllllide the clutch to just move.

In each of these cases the ignition timing must be optimized for it to even start and run.
Author:  Force Fed Mopar [ Thu May 26, 2011 10:24 am ]
Post subject: 
Sorry for the slow reply, internet has been down at my house for like 3 weeks :(

I have replaced:

distributor
wiring harness
plugs (Autolite 65's, IIRC, or maybe 64's)
cap and rotor
ignition module

I have been completely through the carb and cleaned it, and played with the metering rod and idle mix settings on the truck. Also made sure the valves are all set to specs.

The truck (80 Dodge D100, has a engine that is rebuilt I believe, compression is good, looks clean and is freshly painted) skips, sounds like a ignition skip or it's not burning fuel properly. I have tried 2 different sets of plug wires, but both are used so I'm not sure if they are good. If I pull the wires back slightly from the plugs, just enough to make the spark jump, it runs better. Also swapped coils, put one on that I checked w/ a spark checker and it showed to be pushing 35-40k volts. When you rev it it revs smooth, but at a steady rpm it skips a bit. Doesn't want to go easily when letting the clutch out, has to be revved up pretty good. No vacuum leaks, has a new gasket on the intake/exhaust.

Think I need to buy a good set or plug wires for it next, any recommendations?
Author:  Force Fed Mopar [ Fri May 27, 2011 5:28 am ]
Post subject: 
Maybe need hotter plugs? BTW advancing or retarding the distributor doesn't get rid of the skip. Which way is the vac adv can supposed to point when the dizzy is properly installed? Wondering it's installed out of phase or something.

Also, the engine is grounded good, it has a huge ground cable from the back of the block to the firewall. Looks like a 0 gauge battery cable or something. No way possible to have too much of a ground, is it?

Also, what is the proper plug gap? I think I have them set to .035.
Author:  olafla [ Fri May 27, 2011 1:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
NGK UR-5 or UR-4 plugs (or UR45IX iridium wide gap (.059) if you want to go fancy like me), magnecor.com for the best plug wires. You'll find all the info you need in the 'engine' FAQ, just remember the plugs on the later heads (<mid '70s) are different from early model heads.


Olaf.

BTW, forget the wide gap plugs if you run a standard Mopar ignition, I run them with a hotter, longer duration spark HEI upgrade.
Author:  Force Fed Mopar [ Sat May 28, 2011 4:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well started it up today and it was running fairly decent, didn't want to stall on take-off really. I'll grab some new NGK's and a set of wires soon and see how it does.
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