raced @ mason dixon/75-80

19.98 buddy..

so I warm engine up /in park. pushed the peddle to the floor /tach goes to 3900 only.
idles 500-700
I decide to check the timing
no tab on timing chain cover
now what
it does (as the crow flys )look general direction to b OK
but is there any other true way to check it. I have read it should be 10-12 advanced.
I did un bolt the one bolt and move it from total one posion to the other..no difference. in 3900 top rpm
the dist was lock in the fully counter clockwise position,
so I losened up the bolt had a high idel and moved it, listening..the idle was lower in the other direction and the motor did not seem as smooth. it just does not rev over 3900..the carb is fully open too.
any one have input.
thanks..

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

Several ideas, really...

1. Sufficient fuel flow?
2. Something stuffed into the air intake path?
3. Exhaust is blocked
4. No advance in distributor
5. Tachometer isn't reading right - set for 8 cyl, maybe?
6. Ignition issues - won't fire past your rpm. Points? Ignition box? You didn't say.
7. bad coil
8. The strange "sacrafice a virgin to fix" issue?

Ok, the last one was just for laughs, but since I know nothing about your vehicle, these are the things I'd start checking out.

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'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

If the engine won't rev over 3900 with no load something is wrong. First thing I'd check, if it has point ignition, is the points. Most points you get now are junk and have weak springs so you get point bounce. Electronic ignition with an HEI module is cheap and effective. See the HEI thread.

If the engine has it's original 43 year old valve springs you could be getting valve float. Only thing you can do for that is new springs, but they are cheap and not too tough to install. Probably need valve stem seals anyway. You just need a valve spring compressor like this:

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Joshua

Congratulations!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Another thing you might want to check, and surprizingly I've seen this a few times, is to see if the butterflys are fully opened with the throttle pedal pushed in all the way. They should be but sometimes are not.

You can make a timing tab. The following assumes that the damper is in good shape and the outer ring has not slipped around the inner hub.

Put a piston stop in the #1 plug hole and a degree wheel on the damper. Rotate the crank (by hand!) in both directions until it stops and write down the degree readings at both extreems. Dead center is exactly between your two degree readings, so move the damper groove to that point. If the damper groove is 180 out just turn it half a turn to the same spot 180 away. Now mark the chain cover where the damper groove is and you'll have an indicator at TDC. Make a pointer of some kind and place it there. At that point you might want to put a degree tape on the damper so you can find different advance settings.

I'm sure someone will come along and explain this better.
________
redheaded Webcams

guterfly is fully open

here's a video..any thoughts?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ylne9j4smqU

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

Those old tachs like that you had to take apart and in the back there was a wire you had to cut for it be used on a 6 cylinder. If that the case you are about to blow that engine because its turning much more RPM than its showing you.


Jess

idles @ 500-700

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

sounds like the chain jumped a tooth.......

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

well. 175K on speedoemeter

no smoke/no oil use

has a semi rough idle

I have never seen a timing chain fail on a slant

if the points were close some would that do it?

stock car..less rear seat did run 19.98 in 1/4 drags yesterday

would that happen with a jumped timing chain?

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

zilla dont see your post anymore..you were right !
the guy i bought from said it was in the trunk of a saturn.
founds this
http://www.tradervar.com/All%20Other%20Sun%20Tachs.pdf

removed it from base and IT was on 8 cylinder..moved to 6 cylinder and it flashed to 5K fast, could have gone higher but I felt so bad that I did not want to see how far it can go..
thanks slantsix.org

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

heres a story. I looked local @ a 4 door 1969 dart slant six for $900, the seller had went to a tech school in Pa. said as a mater of fact.."you cant blow those motors up" I ask why he would say that." my instructor had one and one day said were gona blow it up and then take it apart"
they locked the throttle open / running for 45 minuets, took it apart. it had two bent push rods only...they stoped @ 45 minuets as it was not going to blow up.

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

I mentioned the tach setting in your other thread. http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... ach#314477

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Joshua

Yikes. Tach is reading wrong. I know what a slant sounds like and that's idling 1000 or more. It's winding UP there when you hit it, too.

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'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.