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oil pump gear change out
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46207		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  DadTruck [ Sat Sep 03, 2011 6:43 pm ]
Post subject:  oil pump gear change out
any tricks to removing an oil pump gear and not destroying it so the gear can be re used?

I want to remove the OE oil pump gear and then install it on a new pump that I have for the re build of the 83 D-150... Having the OE cam re ground,, so I'll be keeping the original oil pump gear and cam hobbing together.


is it just a matter of finding a gear puller with thin enough jaws to get really under the meat of the gear? Thinking I want to be off the tips of the teeth, or does that matter?

how about going back on,,any tips there

thanks
Author:  Jeb [ Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
I can help you out with the reinstallation. Put it in a small toaster oven and heat it to 450* for 15 minutes. I use this technique with all of my crankshaft sprockets, and they just slide right on with no hammering at all.

Unless that oil pump gear is sensitive to excessive heat and will become brittle.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sat Sep 03, 2011 9:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Lol...
Quote:
Put it in a small toaster oven and heat it to 450* for 15 minutes. I use this technique with all of my crankshaft sprockets, and they just slide right on with no hammering at all.
I prefer propane or Mapp Gas torch for 5 minutes slides right on sooner...
:wink:

Of course, it gets better when you are baking a rear end ring gear in your kitchen oven on an old pan and your wife catches you!!!! :shock:

-D.Idiot
Author:  Joshie225 [ Sun Sep 04, 2011 11:49 am ]
Post subject: 
If there is no key in the gear the pump body can support the gear as you drive the shaft out of the oil pump. Remove the oil pump cover and support the oil pump body carefully as you beat on the end of the shaft with a big hammer and drift. :)
Author:  slantzilla [ Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
OR, you can just send your oil pump to Doug to have him blueprint it and put on a hardened gear. :D
Author:  DadTruck [ Sun Sep 04, 2011 3:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
Josh,,
are you serious,, I was thinking of pulling the gear off the shaft,, but you are saying drive the shaft through the gear

have you actually done one like that?

SZ
that's not a bad idea,, but I have a cam and oil pump gear that have been happily runing together for 28 years,, so I want to keep those two together,, I do want to put a new pump into the mix

so Doc has a method to pull the gear,, wonder how he does that?
Author:  emsvitil [ Sun Sep 04, 2011 3:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you're trashing the old pump.............

Cut the shaft off, then put the gear/shaft stub in a hydraulic press and push the remains of the shaft out.
Author:  Jeb [ Sun Sep 04, 2011 4:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
Image

Which came from here:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/oil-pu ... report.htm
Author:  Joshie225 [ Sun Sep 04, 2011 5:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Josh,,
are you serious,, I was thinking of pulling the gear off the shaft,, but you are saying drive the shaft through the gear

have you actually done one like that?
Yes, I've done this. Take the cover off the pump, support the pump body on wood blocks, drive the shaft out and the gear is free. It's the easiest way I know. I chipped a gear trying to use the wrong type puller.
Author:  DadTruck [ Sun Sep 04, 2011 5:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
Josh,, That Rocks,, driving the shaft through the gear is the way to go,
I to figured that if anything but the perfect puller was used a tooth was going to break.
so I am glad I asked,,,, got a sturdy 2x4,, aligned the wood and pump for max support, cut a hole to clear the inner rotor,, a flat drift and a 2 lb hammer,, and it was done,, Easy..Thanks!

the 83 pump is an aluminum body, has an iron cover face,,with two additional "pockets". Maybe some improvement that Mopar did for slant oil pumps in the 80's ?? The replacement pump (iron Dynagear) has a flat internal cover face.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N ... 470764421/

I'll get some measurements tomorrow on the 83 pump,, I can feel a slight wear area on the inside of the cover face where the inner rotor has been running and there is a fair amount of "texture" on the leading edges of where the inner and outer rotors wring together.
Author:  slantzilla [ Sun Sep 04, 2011 6:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
One thing I can guarantee about the pump with the pockets, put the cover on in any position but the correct one and you will have no oil pressure at idle. :shock:
Author:  Dizzydean [ Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
I dont know if mine was that style but I did experience that with my 70's rebuild no pressure at idle but the light went off with higher revs at least until my 5 mile old motor let a rod hit the bottom of the oil pan and came out the side of the block. To think it only had about an hour of run time. Back to the stand we go
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sun Sep 04, 2011 9:20 pm ]
Post subject:  One other thing...
For anyone doing Josh's method on one of the newer Melling units, it's better to press it out...I already destroyed another Melling pump replacing the gear...The gear hit the shaft housing and broke a chunk out of the cast iron (I thought these were "soft gears"!)...I took the cover off and after the gear chipped the housing...the pump impeller hit the floor with
not much fan fare but enough to cause some "dents" in the soft metal of the impeller....I'm looking through the stock pump pile now...

-D.Idiot
Author:  Joshie225 [ Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
Oh, no! I was suggesting this just to recover the gear from an otherwise junk pump.
Author:  DadTruck [ Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
actually pushing the shaft through the gear worked fine,, back on the question of the pockets in the oil pump cover,, any ideas on why Chrysler did that?
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