My 63 dart wagon overheated the other day in our 95+ degree weather. Pulled the radiator cap, and realized I was low on water. Was also running with a 7lb cap, which I must discard: didn't realize until just recently how critically important a correctly-rated cap was. Obviously that didn't help anything! Refilled, did better, still overheated on the way home. Once cooled down, I looked down the rad neck, and the water level was low, and many tube ends had visible rust plugging them. Clearly, the radiator needs to be rodded out. Plus, the overheating trip caused a pressure buildup where there's one visible pinhole leak in the top of the rad tank. So my question is:

Is it worth it $-wise to rod-out and braze the tank, compared to buying a new horizontal flow radiator that might function better?

What are people's thoughts on this? I saw Dan's custom-made $400 aluminum baby that looks sweet, but I'm not prepared to spend that on a new radiator. But, if the cost of having it rodded-out and brazed is in the same ballpark, then it might make sense.

In the meantime, I'm going to check hoses, thermostat, and pull the drain plugs and flush the block. Don't know when this was last done: certainly not since I've owned the car. Sitting 10+ years in a garage with water/antifreeze mix in the engine/rad didn't help. Perhaps I will move to a waterless coolant, as that may be less stress (pressure) on the system and save any repairs down the road.

I have a radiator shop in San Jose that will remove the top tank, wire brush clean the top of the cores and run the tubes with a rod, re-assemble, leak check and paint for $65.00.

The bad news, they will call me once the radiator is apart and say... this one is tooo thin and can't be fixed"... that happens about 30% of the time.
Call around your area and get some quotes on getting your radiator "rodded-out".

One note, early "round tank" radiators are known for cracking the top tank's solder seam, due to how they "balloon" in & out with pressure changes.
Because of this, I tend to run lower pressure caps, on order to reduce this movement and the stress it puts on the seam joint.

Tip #2: Old SL6 engines have a lot of rust scale inside of them... and it is near impossible to get it all out, with-out rebuilding the engine.
It is a good idea to run a screen or "trap" in the upper radiator return hose, to reduce the chance of re-clogging your new or recently cleaned-out radiator.
DD

Thanks Doc. I found a guy around the corner from my house who did a complete rod-out braze and repaint for $45, so a pretty decent price. Told me I would need to replace the core next time, but hopefully that won't be for awhile.

If you need cores, tanks, and such, I have a couple spare round-tops stashed that may be of use (no charge, I owe you). Both were in use when I decided to change to a three-row, and are stored indoors.

I also devised a very effective screen insert (not the simple screen one) that slides into the top tube. I have one on my toad full time, and will make one up for you if you like.

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

Do you have parts for a 62 radiator? My top tank is shot and core is plugged. I'm interested in the screen insert. What price to 68467? Would you happen to have a 62 gas cap? Or a 63 fill tube and cap?

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Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car