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Carter Fuel Pump Rebuild Kits??
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=48159
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Author:  62toad [ Sun Mar 11, 2012 6:46 am ]
Post subject:  Carter Fuel Pump Rebuild Kits??

I got my 64 Town Panel on the road after 40 years in storage. The fuel pump was the first thing to go after about 5 minutes. I have replaced it with a new one, but would like to rebuild the Carter that was on it. Does anyone know of a source for rebuild kits.
Thanks
Mike[img][img]http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n93/62toad/1964%20Dodge%20D100%20Town%20Panel/IMG_8509.jpg[/img][/img]

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:58 am ]
Post subject: 

Yup, that kit comes from Antique Auto Parts Cellar, also known as Then & Now Automotive; contact info here. Been buying the same kit you need, from them, for years. Tell them you need a kit for a Carter M-2996s pump and you'll get the right one.

Author:  62toad [ Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:03 pm ]
Post subject: 

Dan,
Thanks for the information after cleaning up the pump I found that number on the flange. I'll get it ordered tommorow.
Thanks
Mike
[img][img]http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n93/62toad/1964%20Dodge%20D100%20Town%20Panel/IMG_4434.jpg[/img][/img]

Author:  ceej [ Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:06 pm ]
Post subject: 

Wow! that looks a lot better! :D

We've got a place down near Eugene that deals with the old pumps. It's good to know a source for these. I think I'll add this to the FAQ... :wink:

CJ

Author:  Doc [ Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:03 am ]
Post subject: 

Those "rebuildable" Carter SL6 fuel pumps are fun to rebuild and they respond well to a little "porting work" so do a little deburring and "edge break" work, while you are in there.
DD

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:38 am ]
Post subject: 

Yup, definitely a quick and fun rebuild project. Remember the lower and middle castings need to be screwed together with the diaphragm spring compressed (lever in the "pushed up" position; diaphragm retracted), otherwise it'll stretch and tear in short order once the pump's back together. Put in the new diaphragm, put in the lever and its arm spring, put in the new pivot pin, then put the lower casting in a vise so as to operate the lever and hold it in the "up" position -- just far enough that the screw holes in the diaphragm match up with those in the lower casting. Then install the middle casting (valve body) with its new valves (and the air dome already installed), tighten the screw holes evenly in a crosswise pattern, then take the assembly out of the vise.

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