Studs will tend to have more clamping force, but they are more expensive.
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| Head bolts or Head studs? https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49320 |
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| Author: | Brussell [ Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | Head bolts or Head studs? |
Hi, Planning my first rebuild. Head bolts or head studs? What's the difference? Is one stronger or weaker? Thank-you! |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:48 am ] |
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Studs will tend to have more clamping force, but they are more expensive.
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:22 am ] |
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Unless you're going for a high compression ratio or planning on boost or nitrous then head bolts will be fine. The stock ones in good shape are fine too. |
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| Author: | CNC-Dude [ Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:14 am ] |
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Studs would be better for a performance build, but if you ever have to take the cylinder head off while its still in the car, you have to lift it off over the studs to get it off, and then put it back on. |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Tue Jul 17, 2012 4:57 pm ] |
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No reason not to just clean up the stock bolts .....unless you are boosting it or plan on huge cylinder pressures. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Yep... |
Quote: Studs would be better for a performance build, but if you ever have to take the cylinder head off while its still in the car, you have to lift it off over the studs to get it off, and then put it back on.
Boy, been there done that...it ain't fun...Studs for hi-performance/hi-compression/boost... and one other reason...if for some reason you shave a lot out of the head and/or deck...the bolts may bottom out and not tighten down all the way, then studs would be mandatory for that combo (Done that too...) -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Brussell [ Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:56 pm ] |
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Thanks everyone for your replies, at the moment I'm still gathering info, working my budget and so on. Thinking I will go the studs as in the future I do plan on boost or nitrous at some stage. The rest of the motor will be built with this in mind, looking to be a fun and expensive project. |
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| Author: | ceej [ Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:12 pm ] |
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I take the studs out before installing or removing the head. The allignment dowels do a good job of lining things up. The ARP studs have an allen key cut into the top, so they are a snap to install after setting the head. If your planning to do an adder later, consider getting them up front. It is easier to get accurate clamping torque with the studs as well. Oil the fasteners prior to torquing them down whichever way you decide to go. Somehow I ended up with a quart of 40 wt in my shop. I use it for these types of fasteners, as it doesn't belong in the crankcase of any engine I run.  CJ |
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| Author: | luigisir [ Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:03 pm ] |
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not to hijack the thread, but how much pressure are we talking about when it's best to switch to studs? is it something that only comes up when running boost or bottle? or is it something a N/A engine might run into? 10:1? 11:1? 12:1? 13:1? thought I'd ask, I suppose cam choice would matter as well. |
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| Author: | Brussell [ Wed Jul 18, 2012 12:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just thought of one other question, when putting the studs on the motor do I torque them to the head bolt setting as described in the manual or would they keep going to far through the block in which case would I just do the stud into the block as far as the thread goes. So that if you looked at it from a side on view you would see the thread-less part of the stud sticking out of the block. Thanks again! |
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| Author: | CNC-Dude [ Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:22 am ] |
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With any rebuild, you would chase the threads with a tap before using bolts or studs. Then you would screw the studs in by hand as far as they will go to ensure maximum thread engagement, but hand tighten only. For aluminum blocks, anti-seize is used on the threaded end that goes into the block, and on cast iron blocks, a light coating of silicon sealer is helpful if the bolt holes are exposed to the water jackets. For blind holes, its just a matter of preference whether you use any type of thread sealer or not. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:20 pm ] |
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I would not waste money on studs. I have run several motors in the 11:1 range with bolts, and reused the bolts many times. Tilley had bolts in his 360 HP 12:1 NA motor, but studs in his 630 HP turbo motor. Lou |
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| Author: | NCDemon1971 [ Wed May 22, 2013 1:38 pm ] |
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Quote: I would not waste money on studs. I have run several motors in the 11:1 range with bolts, and reused the bolts many times. Tilley had bolts in his 360 HP 12:1 NA motor, but studs in his 630 HP turbo motor.
Lou, what do you think of running studs or bolts when the head and block has been milled a heavy amount??
Lou |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu May 23, 2013 11:15 am ] |
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Depends on the milling numbers and performance level. Lou |
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| Author: | NCDemon1971 [ Thu May 23, 2013 1:09 pm ] |
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Quote: Depends on the milling numbers and performance level.
Non boosted probably around 11:1 compression..I hope Lou starting new job soon starting to price things 
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