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Rod knock (still!)
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Author:  Chuck [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 8:23 am ]
Post subject:  Rod knock (still!)

My buddy bought a used 225 to replace the tired one in his wagon. He and another friend fired it up outside of the car and deemed it OK. We got it in the car and found out it had a rod knock! Apparently they didn't listen very closely or couldn't hear it without the muffler hooked up.

We removed the engine and discovered that there was a gouge in the crank on one of the rod journals. It appeared that the engine was recently rebuilt and that someone was not very careful installing the rod & piston. It looked like one of the rod studs hit the crank when the piston was inserted.

So we had the crank turned, got new bearings and reassembled the lower end. All the journals were tested with Plastigauge. All the crank journals have .001" clearance. Five of the rod journals are .001, and one is .002. (Unfortunately, it has been several weeks and I don't remember which rod originally has the knock, and which journal was .002.)

When we re-installed the motor & fired it up, we still had a rod knock (on number 2)! Of course, my buddy does not have a lot of money to spend on this, so we didn't dis-assemble the motor, check everything else & recondition the rods. My guess is that the #2 rod is ovaled, and the Plastigauge showed it within tolerance, but when the engine was fired it up, the bearing was pushed into the ovaled area and opened up the gap.

Anyone got any theories for me?

Author:  CNC-Dude [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:42 am ]
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Chuck, that would be a reasonable assumption. Usually any time you have a chewed up journal, even if the rod itself looks ok, its a good idea to go ahead and recon it just as a precaution. One indication of anything awry is how easily the rod cap is removed/installed on the rod. The cap should slide on easily over the rod bolts until the cap reaches the knurled portion of the bolts. As a general rule, even stock OEM rods are pretty tough, but when they get a little hot or get banged on in the journal area, they will tend to draw in at the cap and rod mating surface and need a little attention to correct.

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:50 am ]
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Oog. I wish I could think of something wrong with your theory on why it's still knocking, but I can't. :-(

Author:  Dart270 [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:56 am ]
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I had a damper split along the keyway once (right after an engine rebuild) and it sounded just like a rod knock. Long shot, but heck your damper.

Lou

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:10 am ]
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Good idea. Check all that greebly* external stuff: damper, torque converter bolts, and...gosh, come to think of it the fuel pump's right near #2, isn't it.

*-Thanks, Reed. Image

Author:  Dart270 [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 2:13 pm ]
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Yep, torque converter bolts or crank-flexplate bolts also sound very scary when they get loose.

Cheers,

Lou

Author:  Reed [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 2:39 pm ]
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:mrgreen:

Author:  Chuck [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 3:26 pm ]
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I forgot to mention that the sound goes away when we pull the wire off #2 plug. Gotta be a rod. Thanks for the replies.

Author:  Eric W [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 3:45 pm ]
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Quote:
greebly
:bow:

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 3:58 pm ]
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Quote:
I forgot to mention that the sound goes away when we pull the wire off #2 plug. Gotta be a rod.
…or a faulty piston.

Author:  Dart270 [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 4:52 pm ]
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Yeah, piston slap or big clearance? Bad news, but might *only* require one piston to fix.

Lou

Author:  Jeb [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 4:56 pm ]
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Seized wrist pin?

Author:  Chuck [ Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:17 pm ]
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Going to pull #2 piston and take a look. I've heard piston slap before and it has a "lighter" sound. I will see if I can have the rod reconditioned and the wrist pin bushing replaced, as well as checking out the piston.

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