Hey gang been awhile since ive been to the forum

Still hammering away on the old Valaint.....
Anyway I have just found 4 holley 1920's in hopes of having a spare in case mine ever fails. The ones I purchased don't have a hose connection for the bowl vent (thats the hose that runs down to the fuel pump on my slant)
If I were to use one of these carbs what should I do with the hose since I no longer have a place to attach it?

thanks in advance for any info

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The car I am restoring is a 1971 Valiant 4 door with a slant 6 - 225 engine.

Your spare carburetors are pre-1971 items. Not really a good match for your '71 car. If you must use them on it, you'd remove the hose in question entirely and put a cap on the fuel pump body fitting.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

What are the repercussions if I choose to use ones of these pre 1971 Holley 1920 carbs?

I have researched and continue to do so but have found little information on the functionality of that particualr feature of the carburetor.

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The car I am restoring is a 1971 Valiant 4 door with a slant 6 - 225 engine.

Missing hookups for stuff you ought to keep (thermostatic air cleaner, etc.), more primitive fuel metering.
See here

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I totally missed the air cleaner hookup on these carbs, and thanks for clarifying the functionaity of the vent to crankcase.

Im not sure the vent would drastically impact the performance but without a connection for the air cleaner it would seem these carbs will be of little use to me.

The car will never see extremely cold weather driving perhaps the air filter can do without the damper altogether.

Thanks for the info - If anyone is in need of a pre 71 carb let me know....lol

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The car I am restoring is a 1971 Valiant 4 door with a slant 6 - 225 engine.

Now that I remember futzing with various carburetors on my old '71:

You can work around the lack of thermostatic air cleaner vent provision -- hook into the manifold vacuum tap on the rearmost intake runner.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Good idea - that plug in the manifold has always made me wonder what it was for - a test point for vacuum maybe.

With a closer look at one of the carbs it looks like there is a provision in the casting for the vacuum port that is actually missing.

As far as venting the bowl to the crankcase goes I don't see an advantage other than a very early emission control strategy.

It will be difficult to tell but I will likely rebuild the carb so while it is apart I will try to compare the metering blocks.

In all honesty the carb I am running now is working better than it ever has - I bought these spares in hopes of having one reliable spare.

Currently the car starts very reliably cold and idles perfectly in and out of gear at spec rpm's - first time ever since I have owned the car.

My only problem at the moment is the engine will stumble with a fast push to the accelerator (in park - the car isnt back on the road yet so I can't say how it will respond in drive) and it's running lean(?) leaving a black residue below the tailpipe idling in park.

Adjusting the idle mixture screw has little effect and does not appear to affect the rpm as I adjust it....

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The car I am restoring is a 1971 Valiant 4 door with a slant 6 - 225 engine.

What is the rpm when your adjusting the idle mixture screw?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I was adjusting it @ 700 rpm with the engine warm.

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The car I am restoring is a 1971 Valiant 4 door with a slant 6 - 225 engine.

I see more change on my vacuum gauge when adjusting the mixture. The vacuum gauge helps in fine tuning the mixture and breaking bad habits while driving. I shoot for the highest vacuum I can get. On my old tired engine at best it reads 18" @ 750 rpm. It has a good transition off idle and will spin the tires if I romp on it.

I run a aggressively recurved distributor and have a very healthy/strong pump shot when looking down the throat of the 1920 carb. I ran a small "E" guitar string in the accelerator pump outlet hole to clear the old varnish/debris while it was apart and blew the accumulation out. Distributor recurve plot is posted under Engine FAQ. That was for my modified engine. To run the same distributor in a stock low compression engine I had to set the initial timing at 6 degrees for best mileage with our current fuel. The accelerator pump plunger is a dual prong for a little more fuel right off idle. So lots of mechanical timing and a little extra fuel help it to get going producing a little spunk.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

A slow transition from idle works very well - its only when I tromp the pedal that I get hesitation - I will try adjusting the idle mixture with the vacuum guage attached - as I now recall it was initially tuned at 750 rpm and at that time I had 17".

I think it is supposed to run lean at idle but I don't like the black spot it leaves....lol

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The car I am restoring is a 1971 Valiant 4 door with a slant 6 - 225 engine.