I bolted the Carter BBS to the intake manifold, and the choke assembly to the exhaust manifold for a trial fit. Holding the carb choke plate lightly closed the operating rod is about 3/8ths inch too long to insert into the hole in the choke linkage.

When I got the car, the operating rod had been bent in a "Z" configuration. I straightened the operating rod so it should be at the factory length. By gently pushing the choke "spring staged" linkage, I can insert the rod into the linkage. Pulling the rod back toward the choke housing, the choke plate can be opened all the way. That movement feels free and unobstructed limited only by the choke spring tension. That spring tension holds the choke valve firmly closed. Is that correct, or should the choke valve be fully closed but in light contact with the air horn?

I've found the info in the factory manual, dealing with the "spring staged" choke, confusing. The illustration is unclear and the adjustment is about clearance between the shaft and hub levers, which doesn't seem to be related to choke function or adjustment.

That describes my findings pretty well, but where do I go from here, please??

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

the z bend is your adjustment

New choke thermostat assembly. Once they've been mangled (bent, unbent, rebent, etc.) they can't be put back to the right length and angle. Which thermostat you need depends on what year exhaust manifold you're running.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.