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https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50268		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  viasloth [ Wed Nov 07, 2012 5:57 am ]
Post subject:  New to the slant 6 community
Hi all, I am new to the slant 6 community and have a couple questions about somethings that are happening with my motor, I have a 66 valiant with the 225 engine.

First is it common for a lifter to clack with these? at least its the only thing I can really think that is making the sound. And how do you go about fixing it? I have tried some lifter ease and still clacks.

Next question is I rebuilt the Holley 1920 carb and it seems to leak out of the bottom screw on the float bowl from time to time, and I am not really sure why since the gasket is new? Does this usually happen after a rebuild?

Last but not least is there a way to fix a crack in the exhaust manifold? other then buying a new one? only because I don't really have the money for one right now.

Thank you all :D
Author:  ceej [ Wed Nov 07, 2012 6:08 am ]
Post subject: 
The valve train is mechanical, and requires periodic lash adjustment. Get a FSM and search on valve adjustment on this forum for more info.

Your carburetor shouldn't leak. If the bowl has been overtightened, it may not seal up very well. If it's leaking, you have a hazard, and you fuel economy will be terrible.

The crack can be welded up if done properly. It is unlikely to be a permanent fix, and will be a waste of money in the long run. New or good used is the best bet.

Welcome to the Forum! :D

CJ
Author:  Danarchy [ Wed Nov 07, 2012 6:55 am ]
Post subject: 
Welcome to the Forum.
+1 on the New or Used(in good condition) exhaust manifold.
Put your location for better replys to questions, and possibly local help!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:02 am ]
Post subject: 
Welcome here!

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Your clacking valves will be solved with a valve adjustment. Don't add random substances to the crankcase, use good quality oil and a good filter. The carburetor must not leak, that's a fire hazard. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

You'll also want to get at least some of the three books described in this thread.
Author:  viasloth [ Fri Nov 09, 2012 10:15 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for all the suggestions I am going to pull the carb off and make sure the bowl is seated right and making a good seal with the gasket. Thanks for the links as well
Author:  Mroldfart2u [ Fri Nov 09, 2012 4:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hmm lifter ease? Never heard of anything called that..... But I dont know everything either... Welcome to the board, and you will find that these ole gals are tougher than chuck norris... :lol:
Author:  viasloth [ Fri Nov 09, 2012 7:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
well its not exactly called lifter ease haha, its just an oil additive that helps to un-stick lifters like mystery oil which I used this time and in the past and it does help some.

One thing I still have not been able to find out about is why my carb would only leak sometimes and not all the time
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat Nov 10, 2012 10:02 am ]
Post subject: 
viasloth,
Quote:
Next question is I rebuilt the Holley 1920 carb and it seems to leak out of the bottom screw on the float bowl from time to time, and I am not really sure why since the gasket is new? Does this usually happen after a rebuild?
Check the float bowl sealing surfaces with a straight edge and see if the bowl is bent from over tightening. Then check the carb sealing surface. Is the ridge still intact or does it have a pit or notch from corrosion? You may have to straighten the float bowl ears by filing them flat so you can tighten the bowl more. If the sealing ridge is not perfect and has gaps from pitting you may have to build it back up with JB Weld and file to the original shape.

I usually glue the gasket to the bowl. When re-installing the bowl I always apply a thin line of oil on the gasket from a small needle type oil bottle. It keeps the gasket from sticking to the main carb body. I have changed jets over the past 8 years in this carb about 40 times and am still using the same gasket and it never leaks. I snug it up and go around the bowl 3 or 4 times tightening. Just don't over tighten! and bend the ears again......

Hope this helps.
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Sat Nov 10, 2012 12:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
lifter stuff is for hydraulic lifters. Ours are solid. Ticking can also be an exhaust leak.


Ilove the sound of mechanical lifters!

Welcome to slantdom!
Author:  viasloth [ Sat Nov 24, 2012 1:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks Ted, took it off and checked and reinstalled and no leak.

As far as the ticking being an exhaust leak how would that make it tick?
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Sat Nov 24, 2012 4:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Thanks Ted, took it off and checked and reinstalled and no leak.

As far as the ticking being an exhaust leak how would that make it tick?
It does. I can't explain why. My Duster had two complete cracked spots. When I removed the manifolds the exhaust came off in 3 pieces.

Many years ago I had a tick on a 383 Magnum, turned out to be an exhaust leak! I did find sloppy valve guides and a cam gear missing all of it's nylon teeth...... :shock:
Author:  viasloth [ Sat Nov 24, 2012 5:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hmmm thats interesting thanks :) . I do have an exhaust leak, my manifold is cracked :?
Author:  WagonsRcool [ Sat Nov 24, 2012 9:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sometimes an exhaust leak from a cracked manifold (or a failed gasket) can make a sound that could be mistaken for a "tick".

Fix the leak, adjust the valves, & see if the tick is gone.
Author:  viasloth [ Fri Jan 04, 2013 6:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ok its been a bit since I posted in this thread, but I have a question about the valve adjustment, if I tighten one of the rockers/rod and the car dies, should I adjust it back? even though if I do it will clack again?
Author:  ceej [ Fri Jan 04, 2013 6:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Where are they lashed? What clearances have you set them to?

Seek a local slant sixer to help you if your having trouble.

What process are you using to set the valve lash? Hot running? Cold on base circle?

There is a third, but shouldn't be attempted without experience. It involves lashing to the ramps.

CJ
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