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Push Rods and reassembly valve clearance cold.
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50300		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  cw6er [ Sun Nov 11, 2012 8:04 am ]
Post subject:  Push Rods and reassembly valve clearance cold.
Ok, the head is back on the truck and during disassembly I had drilled some holes in a wooden slat to keep the push rods in order. What I didn't do was mark which end of the slat was the front! Now one end of the slat is longer then the other and I think i remember which way I loaded the push rods in, so I think they are installed in the engine in the right order but I am not 100% sure.

What are the consequences of not installing them in their original position?

The gasket used was a Fel-Pro and I'm given to understand that these are thicker? That would explain why the valve lash seems to be too loose.

Is there a factory spec for cold valve clearance for engine assembly to get them in the ballpark to safely start the engine to warm it up to set them hot?

Also, there is mention in the valve lash FAQ of 0.012" and 0.024" being specified by the factory for slant-6s used in trucks.

Is there something different in the truck engines that requires the different clearance, and if so, how do you identify a truck engine (my engine has been swapped out)?
Author:  kielbasa [ Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:55 am ]
Post subject: 
Pushrods don't matter, lifters do.
Author:  Joshie225 [ Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:03 am ]
Post subject: 
Trucks are often under heavier loads for longer times than passenger car engines. This means more heat, more expansion and more loss of valve lash. Truck owners are generally less concerned about noise than passenger car owners. Try .012" intake and .024" exhaust. If it's too noisy try .010"/.020". Truck engines generally received got the same cam as passenger car engines. It's not a part difference, but an application (load and noise) difference.
Author:  cw6er [ Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:40 am ]
Post subject: 
Ok, thanks for the replies. I'll buy that. 8)

So, I guess I'll set them at .012"/.024 COLD as I reassemble it and that should be loose enough to start and warm the engine up to set them warm.

Quote:
..... It's not a part difference, but an application (load and noise) difference.
So it's like the only difference between a Standard Delco alternator and a Heavy-duty one .... is the size of the pulley! :shock:

The Standard one is sized to run fast enough to put out a charge at Idle but that means it is running pretty fast at highway speeds, while the Heavy-duty one is sized to run slower at highway speeds for longer life but doesn't charge at idle.

And the only difference between the Automotive Delco alternator and the FAA approved aircraft version is that each individual part is inspected. Then the assembly line is cleared of all std. parts and the inspected parts are brought out and each and every alternator at each stage of assembly is inspected instead of the random sampling tested for the automotive versions. Otherwise they are the same.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:00 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
So it's like the only difference between a Standard Delco alternator and a Heavy-duty one .... is the size of the pulley!
Except that's not actually true...
Quote:
And the only difference between the Automotive Delco alternator and the FAA approved aircraft version is that each individual part is inspected. Then the assembly line is cleared of all std. parts and the inspected parts are brought out and each and every alternator at each stage of assembly is inspected instead of the random sampling tested for the automotive versions. Otherwise they are the same.
This is true.
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