A friend purchased a pretty complete 65' D100 just recently. He dropped it off at my house so i could get it started. That has been easier said than done. I'll admit that this is the FIRST slant six i've ever worked on. Little hesitant at first but I love a challenge and have always been curious about the Slant Six's

Here's a quick rundown of the way the truck sat when we bought it.
-No battery
-No belt
-No throttle linkage
-Manual fuel pump bypassed by previous owner. Electric pump feeding fuel from bed mounted fuel cell.
-All wiring seemed intact

Seems like an easy start.

First thing we did was have the carb rebuilt. Installed new battery, belt and wired the electric fuel pump since the wires were cut before we bought it. Also drained the coolant and did an oil change. Unforotunately wasnt able to find the throttle linkage.

The first time we attempted to start her she just turned over but would never fire. Also the carb would flood. Right about that time i found this website and did some snooping around. Several folks here have had similiar no start issues WITH flooding and turned out to be a bad ballast resistor.

So we bought a new resistor, volt regulator, coil, condensor, point set, plugs, cap and rotor. All of which i installed today. The distributor drive gear is back ordered. Also installed a new fuel pressure regulator dialed in at 4.5psi

I also checked and set timing. Sounds like she wants to start when i spray starting fluid down the carb. She only stays on a few seconds. Basically the time it takes to burn the starting fluid then she just cranks over and over.

The only thing i dont have is the throttle linkage, but would that really affect it not starting? I manually give it gas while someone turns the key and it does the same thing. Only stay on long enough to burn the fuel or starting fluid that it was primed with.

I'm stumped.

In addition i did a compression check to and all cylinders were between 115-120psi

Another thing I did was recheck the wiring under the hood per the diagram in the manual i purchased. All wires are where they should be.

I vote that the carburator is in need of attention especially it's settings.

Time to pull out the manual and check it before another fire up...if it has gas in the bowl and it won't idle after all the settings are correct, the carb may need a rebuild or replacement.

Is the valve lash correct? that would make it tough to stay going if really tight.

-D.idiot

Few random pics.

this is after a light spray of starting fluid.

http://youtu.be/xGm-Lgdleho

Your choke isn't working right. Watch the linkage on the side of the carb in that video. The choke is closed when the motor is of, but as soon as you start the engine the choke flops open due to air flow. As soon as the motor dies due to no choke, the choke then flops closed again. I suspect you are either missing or have disconnected the choke thermostat rod that holds the choke closed when the motor is cold and slowly opens as the motor heats up. Either reconnect it or replace it. In the short run, try and start it with a fried or a piece of wire holding the choke mostly closed but with a 1/4 inch gap.

I looked at the pictures you posted and the choke thermostat is clearly missing. It bolts into that cup on the exhaust manifold and has a rod that attaches to the choke linkage.

Interesting. Looks like the truck had A/C.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks for the quick reply Reed. You're right, the thermostat choke rod is missing. Haven't located one yet.

I'll give it a shot using a piece of wire to hold it 1/4" open.

Never mind the trucks....Im groovin on the cool 51 Dodge/Desoto/Chrysler 2dr at the curb.....

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Okay REED that made a huge difference. I Held the choke 1/4 inch open and it fired up but rev'd extremley high and loud. I ran out of the cab and attempted to give it some gas at the carb and the RPM's came down but eventually stalled again.

Looks like i need to hurry up and find that throttle and choke linkage.

Thanks ! That's my brother's 50 Chrysler Windsor. Waiting on a fuel pump to arrive from AMS. Other than that she runs like a champ.

First off welcome aboard SevensGarage, and you sure have some fine old iron parked around your place. Would that be a 50 Dodge two door at the curb? Tell us a about them when you get a chance.
I think you may have one of two problems:
One; a fuel delivery problem. Blow out all lines, clean fuel cell, change fuel filter, check float level of carb, and make sure needle valve is free of old crap and can seal.

Two:
Mopars have two ignition circuits, one feeds 12 volts to coil when starter is engaged, when key returns to run position, a second ignition circuit takes over disconnecting start circuit and feeding reduced voltage via ballast resister (around 7V) to coil.

A common starting problem with Mopars is the engine will fire while starter is engaged, and as soon as key is released to flip back to run position the engine quits. This can be caused by a bad ballast resistor not passing any voltage to coil, or malfunctioning ignition switch. What I’m building up to here is recheck run circuit making sure you have about 7v at coil with key in run position. Check for continuity at the ignition switch, and the new ballast resister.

The ignition switch has two internal integral switches labeled “run 1â€￾ and “run 2â€￾ (one is start, the other run). Test both switches to be sure electrons can flow, and all related conductors in the run circuit. There will be a red or black wire feeding 12 v to ignition switch that is common to both run 1 & run 2. Place one probe of volt ohm meter set on ohms on common feed, the other on run 1, and turn the key and see if the circuit is open or closed, then repeat on run 2. If one of these switches malfunctions you need a new switch.

Also don’t discount DusterIdiot’s advice regarding checking valve lash. It is always a magical mystery tour when one acquires a new vehicle practically if it is about fifty years old… LOL

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I was unable to view your Youtube a second time, but I recall throttle return spring being disconnected. And, yes choke has to fully close as Reed said. He posted before I finished my tome…

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The choke situation is the most obvious cause of failure to run. Once that is dealt with (A manual choke setup from the generic auto parts store will do) I notice the silver colored new looking voltage regulator bolted to the kinda nasty looking firewall. The regulator needs to have a good solid case ground! unbolt it and sandpaper the firewall area where the bolts go through. Get rid of any rust or corrosion on the firewall and the back of the mounting ears on the regulator, so there's bright metal on both sides. Smear some grease on both sides (Vaseline works fine) to keep air and moisture away from your nice clean connection.

About your throttle linkage, I can't see what you have to work with from the carb to the firewall. That may take some creative fabrication. It looks like there was a carb with the throttle shaft running from side to side, like a V-8 engine. The Holley that's on the /6 now has the throttle shaft running fore and aft.

I see two rods running from the area of the carb that look like throttle and transmission pressure (kickdown) rods. Does the truck have an automatic tranny?? If so, you'll want to pull the lever on the left side of the transmission back and wire it in place. That will keep from damaging the tranny when you drive it.

You mentioned buying "the manual". I highly recommend the Factory Service Manual (preferably on CD). The Haynes and Chilton books for several years have been close to worthless.

Welcome to the forum! Deal with the choke and voltage regulator first, and a solution to the linkage will be found!

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Ditto on the throttle return spring. Those early 1920 carbs didn't have a throttle return spring built into the throttle shaft assembly like the later carbs did. Re-attach the return spring and try again (better yet, instal a double return spring setup). Right now the airflow is probably sucking the throttle fully open.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.