I just finished installing the new slant in my 83 B150. It's an '81 engine with the super six conversion. Im going with the HEI upgrade and lean burn delete as well. I have a dizzy from a '74 duster #3755042 Is this a suitable unit to use?

Here's what I got:

B150 shorty cargo. stock rebuilt '81 engine w/a833 trans

I won't be racing it or anything but I do want it to perform- also what vacuum pod should I use?

Thanks

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83 B150 /6 4spd
97 JeepWrangler Sport 4.0
2001 VW Beetle TDI 5sp
2000 Nissan Xterra
73 Dodge B300 van

That will be a good start, then you can work up from there. Since you are running a large brick with a little motor the stock vacc. can provides a good amount of advance without going overboard and pinging...if your current can is shot install a new VC-239 (these are now an 8.5x can like the Vc-184/185 the 1975 distributor has but are a few dollars cheaper).

Install distributor at 5BTDC to start and add static if no pinging is apparent, if you make it to 10BTDC without mishap and your total timing at highway rpm is about 26-30 + 17 for the can you should be good.

Good Luck.

-D.Idiot

Thanks DI for the advice, I'm going to take the dizzy apart for an inspection and cleaning, and after I rebuild the BBD I'll be ready to go. I'm amazed at the wealth of knowledge by the guys on this site- I never realized how much there is to know about this engine I'll post my results and hopefully some pics-

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83 B150 /6 4spd
97 JeepWrangler Sport 4.0
2001 VW Beetle TDI 5sp
2000 Nissan Xterra
73 Dodge B300 van

Does the distributor have to be pulled to replace the vacuum canister? I have a 84' d150 I've converted it to the chrysler solid state ignition...I believe that it has the 30-3690 dizzy not totally sure though i've never pulled it. It came with the truck i replaced the distributor cap and rotor and inside the distributor it looked like it was a newer distributor...

But the guy i bought the truck from was running it without the vacuum pot being connected or plugged so i'm not sure if it works like it should or not...i'm not sure how long he drove it that way either but i might go ahead and replace the pot and check the air gap on the distributor just to eliminate that as being the problem

It looks like autozone sells the VC239 for 12.99 and the VC185 for 14.99 will either of these vacuum pots work with any distributor designed for the slant 6?

What do you mean when you say "add static"? When i look at the timing indicator with my timing light it is not steady it kind of jumps around a bit...is this an indication of slack in the timing chain? And if there were some slack what would the symptoms be when driving the truck?

Yes, you have to have it out and unhook the post on the arm of the can from the pickup plate. 30-3690 is a crap shoot on what mechanical governor you get...the vacc can is always a generic 10x can though.
Take a vacuum hand pump connect to the can and see if it moves the pickup plate as you pump. If it does and holds vacuum, it's still good.
As will a VC184, a VC-208, and quite a few others...but for the moment if you are running a brick with a small stock engine a little less vacc. adv. is a good thing...so if the 10x can is toast install a VC-239 and call it good.
With the engine off, roll it to TDC on the base circle of the cam lobe (i.e. both rockers should be 'loose'), and check the rotor position of the distributor with the #1 cap tower...if it's on the tower you are at TDC...want to set it to 5 BTDC static? roll the engine back so the damper line matches to the tab at 5BTDC...need more, roll it back to 8BTDC set the rotor to the #1 cap tower at the distributor and bolt the distributor back down....(this also assumes that the damper hasn't slipped and the mark is still accurate).
Yep, that's the most common issue, you could also get this if the springs are not correct for the application and they 'bounce' the weight pegs off the end of the governor slot (not a problem with remans or stock OEM distributor they have fairly stiff advance springs). The end user result of this is usually bad timing=lower vacc. reading, surging, lower mpg...if really bad, engine dies at times, lower performance, backfire can occur...

-D.Idiot

D.I.

Reading all this dizzy input makes me question my setup and if its even correct. Ill have to check it when I get home now

You Sir, are a GO at this station.

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Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Well, looks like i will need to start reading up on replacing the timing chain and gear set...the good thing is you can get them for $25.99 so it's not too expensive and the gasket, seal set is 15.99

The biggest worry i have is making sure i get no. 1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke (i believe that's right) i'll have to make sure i have a clear understanding on that when i do it...i saw a video a while back on youtube from a guy who did the HEI conversion and he said something about being able to take the oil filler cap off and looking at the intake and exhaust valves being opened and closed to know when your at top dead center. Which valve should i be looking for to be opened or closed at TDC?

Fortunately i have the OEM service manual for the truck

I will deal with the distributor first and read up on taking it out and then getting the numbers off it and posting some pics on the forum...i will at least replace the can with the VC-239 that your recommending. If i were to buy a new dizzy w/vacuum which one would you recommend of the ole 84' D150?

Right now i have the timing set at about 6 BTDC and that doesn't seem too bad i've tried 12, 10, 2 BTDC and 5 or 6 seems to be the best for this truck for now anyway...that may change once i have the dizzy and timing set worked out.

To ensure you are at TDC on the compression stroke on the #1 cylinder (which is where you want to be to time your motor from scratch) you can pull the valve cover or pull the oil fill cap and watch the rocker arms on the #1 cylinder. Rotate the crankshaft and watch the movement of the rocker arms. Keep rotating until you see the #1 rocker arm depress and then come back up. Now rotate the motor until the timing mark aligns with ) or TDC on the timing tab. Assuming the damper is still accurate, the #1 cylinder is now at TDC.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.