Is it possible to do? I got the bolt loose that holds on the stock kickdown rod but since there is a nut on the other side of it that holds it on, I can't get my big hands back there into that tight space to get it off. I'm sure SOMEONE on here has done it at one point. I'd love to hear what tricks you used. I got the Lokar Throttle cable ready to get set up without any issues but Im sort of kicking myself in the ass over this kickdown cable.

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1973 Plymouth Gold Duster
48,000 Original Miles

You might have to drop the back of the gearbox a bit to get at it.

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

Sounds like a case of "lackoftherighttoolforthejob". I, too often suffer from the condition. Usually a trip to the handy neighborhood tool store remedies it. I'm thinking of a long nosed locking plier, like this.

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

ugh that sounds like its going to be a bad time. is that what you had to do?
Im hoping thats all it is. I tried a variety of wrenches by there are some pretty intense workers on this forum, I figured somebody has a remedy that will allow me to avoid dropping the back of the gearbox =|

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1973 Plymouth Gold Duster
48,000 Original Miles

You know I installed one for a member a long while back with a '65 and I didn't have to drop the gear box at all...but I don't have large meaty hands either...

-D.Idiot

did you just hold the nut on the back while you unscrewed the bolt or what?

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1973 Plymouth Gold Duster
48,000 Original Miles

Process went like this:

Previous kickdown linkage was jury rigged to sort of work with the Holley 2300 on a super six manifold...removed all of that stuff.

Installed the threaded stud through the kickdown lever and tightened with two wrenches.

Located the tailshaft bracket, removed one rear bolt from casing at about the 9'o clock position when looking from the rear of the car (this was per Lokar's instructions with the kit)...put bolt through the bracket and replaced it in the case before it leaked tranny fluid.

Snaked the remaining cable over the top/drivers side of the tranny until it was in the engine bay and installed the bracket on the other end at one of the carb mounting bolts.

To adjust the throttle end, I moved the kickdown lever fully rear, and the owner set the adjustment with the throttle plates 100% open and locked the adjustment.

Seemed to work OK from there on out.

-D.Idiot

thats helpful information that I am going to have to keep handy while I am installing the new cable in case I come across any unexpected issues. however, the only problem that I am having at the moment isn't with hooking it to the carburetor or routing it up from the transmission, its only with removing the stock linkage from the transmission.

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1973 Plymouth Gold Duster
48,000 Original Miles

Depending on the year, it's either pressed into the kickdown arm bushing (in which case you need a large screw driver to pop the end out of the arm, or you need to pull the pin out of the adjustable linkage (typical later 70's).

When taking the rod end out of the arm, make sure to limit the arms movement at the transmission, violent action will dislodge the arm from the regulator in the valve you will be pulling the pan to correct it (the symptom is driving the car after the adjustment and it drives in 1st then immediatley shifts to 3rd....).

-D.Idiot

So in other words, i was wasting time with that small bolt? All i need to do is pop the darn thing out?

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1973 Plymouth Gold Duster
48,000 Original Miles

That small bolt is to adjust the rod length it should have a spring on it to help tension it...the little block the bolt goes into, should have a nub going through the kickdown lever with a washer and tiny cotter pin...remove the pin and it should just push out the top of kickdown lever.

See lower right hand corner of the pic in this link for an example of 70's linkage connection.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforu ... 1298934144


-D.Idiot

well that makes it seem a whole hell of a lot easier than what I was making it out to be. thanks, I'll give it a look and try pulling that pin out tomorrow.

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1973 Plymouth Gold Duster
48,000 Original Miles

yup I feel stupid. I was making that 10x harder than I needed to. I removed the old rod and now I just have to locate the tail shaft bolt and I Will be good to go. unfortunately I am severely sick today so I won't be able to do it for another day or two. but I'm finally in the home stretch for this, how exciting. What about Lokar brackets? Am I expected to buy those things to mount the new cables to my carb?

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1973 Plymouth Gold Duster
48,000 Original Miles

If you want it to look "perty" then get the shiny Lokar stuff. Otherwise bend & drill some scrap angle iron to make it work (having a MIG welder really helps too.)

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl