Quote:
...I have tried to "punch" it out without success.....
It sounds like you need a bigger hammer. 
No joke, I have yet to fail using a stout punch and a really BFH.
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| wheel nut stud https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=52240 |
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| Author: | crickhollow [ Sun Jun 02, 2013 4:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | wheel nut stud |
I have a broken wheel nut stud in my front brake drum. How can I remove it? I have tried to "punch" it out without success. Thanks. |
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| Author: | Sprag [ Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: wheel nut stud |
Quote: ...I have tried to "punch" it out without success.....
It sounds like you need a bigger hammer. No joke, I have yet to fail using a stout punch and a really BFH. |
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| Author: | Fopar [ Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The studs have a swedge very close to the hub, beating it out will cause the new stud to be loose. Richard |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Thu Jun 06, 2013 4:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
So how do you get them out? Sam |
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| Author: | Sprag [ Thu Jun 06, 2013 6:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: The studs have a swedge very close to the hub, beating it out will cause the new stud to be loose.
I have no intent to argue this, I think it's a valid point but I'd like to know more about what you mean here "....have a swedge very close to the hub". Are you referring to the interference or press fit the swedge provides or something else?Richard And just to be clear, I'm not talking about flailing away at it with a framing hammer, I mean one or two focused strikes on the stud center gets it moving, then tap-tap-tap and it's out. Then I use a proper stud puller tool (made for this job) to pull in the new stud, not a hammer or lugnut pull-down. I've never had a problem but I do take this seriously and willing to learn here. |
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| Author: | brummett [ Thu Jun 06, 2013 9:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote:
I have no intent to argue this, I think it's a valid point but I'd like to know more about what you mean here "....have a swedge very close to the hub". Are you referring to the interference or press fit the swedge provides or something else?
The factory studs aren't an interference fit; they're swedged. After the studs are put through the hole, the shoulder is deformed like a rivet, which locks it in place. If you are able to press or hammer the stud out, you'll be left with a hole that is too big for the replacement. Instead, you have to cut the swedging off with a special bit.Here's a page about an old Ford hub, but it works the same with our old Mopars: http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm |
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| Author: | Sprag [ Thu Jun 06, 2013 1:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Wow, that's great info, thanks for sharing that. Good thing I'm not a gambler, I've done enough stud repairs that I would have bet a shortblock that was a regular fit  I suppose my current ride ('66 BBody) would have this arrangement and wonder how long this set up lasted (all of them?). EDIT: Just had a memory of an old MoparAction mag article on something about this. I think it was something similar to the Ford one, with special work to fit new drums on hubs. Not sure if the OP is still watching this, but if anyone can point me to that I'd appreciate it. |
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