I need to get weatherstrip to stop a leak. where do you guys find body supplies?

Check out steele Rubber Products
http://www.steelerubber.com/

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Fast is fine but accuracy is final. You have to learn to take your time ... in a hurry
- Wyatt Earp

thank you. unfortunately, no luck there.

What are you specifically looking for? Most places don't have a definitive list so you will have to get "creative"... Something like trunk weather stripping for a 1975 may not be "available"... but uses the same type and length for say a 1968 Dart (because "its a muscle car, but not a late valiant..." LOL).

-D.Idiot

Yes, What location on the car do you need weather stripping for? And what year is it?
Sam

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the car is a 75 valiant. I need door rubber, trunk rubber, and possibly door opening channel. I also am going to buy the wiper pivot seals, and may need gaskets relating to the heater box.

I've been doing a number of service projects (brakes, tranny, oil, heater hoses, dash lights), and today I thought i'd check the pivot seals. they are definitely bad, but I think I have other problems as well. I had a glass man come out and he showed me where the water left a stain on the weather strip. he's going to have to come back, because I am certain he was wrong when he said the windshield wasn't leaking. i'm certain it is, among other things. when I put the hose to the cowl, it came in like the cascades.

never thought i'd be doing body work!

I forgot to mention, a special thanks to whoever posted the thread about the IVR (instrument voltage regulator). while I haven't put the dash back in yet, the old ivr was definitely bad and the fix was very easy. the article by Ehrenberg was very easy to follow, and it only cost me six bucks.

Schumacher for these.

-D.Idiot

Well now I feel a little silly for not seeing your screen name. Thanks for not mentioning that with your very polite reply.

When I restored my 70 Dart, which is similar to your car I replaced the trunk weather stripping with the weather stripping off the rear hatch of a minivan. It does not glue on, but slips over the pinch weld, which is also present on the A body you have. It looks very much like the stock stuff when in place. The glue always fails at the corners where the stock stuff does not want to bend the corner and get stretched and pulled loose. Because of the configuration of the metal, I did have to patch in a piece of stock stuff across the lowest section at the rear, and that was glued in. But that is a low stress area with little likely hood of leakage. Check out the Chrysler RWD LeBaron's and New Yorkers from the late 70's and through '87 for gaskets that can be used. My experience is that those gaskets will still be serviceable if you can find them in a yard near you.

What model do you have? If it is a 2dr, much of the window and door stuff is available from Year One. If your old gaskets are not falling apart, I would leave them, even if new is available. Actually, you might be able to use the two door gaskets on a four door with some creative cutting and fitting.

That front window (and rear) is problematic. Are you restoring the car? It sounds as if you have things torn down pretty far. The problem is that they no longer make the dam that the factory put around the front and rear windshield just outside the gasket to keep water away from the edge of the gasket. I do not like the whole concept of the double slot gaskets. The modern practice of gluing in windshields is much better. I am a little worried you may have rust in that channel, and that is where you leak is coming from. I always said if I restored another old Mopar I would change the design by welding in a flange all the way around both the front and rear and gluing in the windshield. Then I would cut the gasket in two, and just glue the two halves on the inside and outside just for appearance sake. Right now that is just idle dreaming and speculating. I am not going to restore another old Mopar. This one may go through several more iterations, but it is the one and only now. But I am happy to make decisions about your life and money. (:>)!

Tell us more about your project.

Sam

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sure! my 75 valiant custom is a 4 door sedan that was bought new by a California lady whose daughter moved to Oklahoma city. she got dementia and the car sat under a tree for years. her son-in-law finally persuaded her daughter to list it on craigslist and I snagged it.

a battery and fuel in the bowl brought it back to life. I isolated the fuel problem to the tank, which was full of goo. I cleaned it with electrolysis, using a lye (caustic soda) solution. meantime, I discovered the wheel well was basically gone, which is where the fuel tank is mounted. cleaning the trunk (which had leaked) was not fun, but once done it is in surprisingly good shape. I fabbed a new wheel well.

my friend the welder was a bit tipsy when he put in the new spare wheel well, so I had to figure out how to rust proof and protect the blown out welds. I used rust treatment, fiberglass, and bondo, filling in all gaps and finally undercoating the entire area.

next, I remounted the tank and took it for a spin around the block. I blew a major collection of debris out of the cowl and vents with the shop vac. when I test drove it, inaccessible leaf debris flew out everywhere!

next, I changed the heater hoses, turned the rotors (warped), installed new brake hoses, flushed the lines and kitted the rear wheel cylinders. I found genuine nos pads for the front, and cleaned and repacked the wheel bearings.

noticing that the fuel, temp, and oil gauges weren't lighting up, I decided to pull the dash due to an excellent article I read on here about the ivr going bad. I didn't even know what an ivr was! sure enough, the old one was bad and I heaply made the upgrade.

sorry, my continuation got posted onto another thread called "project, continued." google chrome issues, i guess.

i forgot to mention that i also serviced the transmission (good thing, too), changed the oil, and checked the coolant, which was in amazing shape. this slant doesn't have ANY rust inside the block. also, it has WAY more power than the worn out dart i owned thirty two years ago.

i have named it, "the grumbler." catchy, eh?

Thanks for the update. Use of fiberglass anywhere water can get is highly advisable. I am glad you did that. Bondo traps and holds water, and always leads to rust. Start with fiberglass, and then finish with bondo always. It sounds like you have a nice project going there.
Sam

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