I have just come into possesion of a 25 foot travel trailer. the problem is I don't think my explorer is up to towing it, so I'm thinking of shifting gears with my truck project and making a tow rig out of it. My fathers F150 pulled this thing no problem and with no brakes on the trailer. Do you folks think the shortbed D100 will be up to the task with some heavier springs? It's an auto with lockup, homemade supersix with motorcraft 2 barrell, HEI conversion, and 2-1/4 exhaust with no cats and a glasspack. I estimate the trailer at about 5000 lbs and I have a weight distributing hitch.

Kevin

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crossthreads are better than locktite

Depends on your rear axle gearing and how fast you want to be able to drive uphill. I would hope that your transmission has the wide ratio gearset and that you are running at least 3.55 rear gears.

I will check the sticker later today, But I think it has like 3.70 gears if I'm remembering right and how would I know if I have a wide ratio gear set? and I am ok with running 50-55 MPH

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crossthreads are better than locktite

As long as you have enough traction and brakes you should have no problem. Take it out on short runs first to get acquainted with how it handles, find a parking lot and make some turns and stops (including panic stops) to get used to how the trailer pushes the truck. Start with low speed and gradually pick it up so you don't get surprised when on the road.

Good luck and happy camping!

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Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car

The wide ratio gear set was installed in all post-81 904s. If you are running the original transmission or have a rebuilt transmission using the wide ratio gearset, then you are fine. If the truck is an 87, then you have the wide ratio gearset.

3.7 rear gears should be good for towing, but your motor will be turning pretty fast for extended highway drives. You may want to invest in a four speed manual transmission with overdrive for when you aren't towing anything. I would make absolutely certain that your brakes are in top condition and that your truck weighs enough to stop the trailer.

Also, if you are going to be towing you should run light truck tires and not passenger car tires.

I am glad to here these replies, I think I will build the old girl into a stout, albeit slow tow rig.

Kevin

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crossthreads are better than locktite

I checked the sticker, it has 3.54 gears in the rear.

Kevin

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crossthreads are better than locktite

3.54 is OK, about the highest (lowest numerically) ratio I would want to put behind a truck used to tow things. As long as your truck weighs enough and your brakes are in good enough condition to stop the trailer, you should be OK. Just be prepared to shift into 2 on those long grades.

Anyone know what the smallest size LT rated tire a guy can get is? I think the truck originally came with P205/75R15 tires......I've never seen an LT tire that small but I don't want to go much bigger and mess up the overall gearing if you guys get my drift.

Kevin

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crossthreads are better than locktite

This is the trailer I am hoping to pull.

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crossthreads are better than locktite

This is just my opinion, but...

5000# behind a mechanical lockup and a slant six short bed is going to be a problem in a couple of ways. First, the pickup is too light. The trailer will take over when you get in a pickle. Two, the lockup will likely die a catastrophic death down the road. Probably in a location that isn't convenient. Mine did it around Midnight on I-80, going over the continental divide in a snow storm.

While you might be able to pull this much weight, doing it may cook the transmission. The 1/2 ton pickup was rated for a max 4000# towing capacity. Keep in mind the GCVWR will be way over before you load the bed and sit down in the cab.
If your going to do this, trailer brakes with a high end digital controller. Don't drive fast. Change out to a non-lockup torqueflite and converter. Install a big tranny cooler. Install a deep sump pan.
Better yet, trade the exploder off for a 3/4 ton, and use the weight distribution system. It will improve handling considerably. With any trailer bigger than those designed to carry a lawnmower and two weed-whackers, you will want trailer brakes hooked up. With a 1/2 ton, both trailer axles need to be braking axles. Make sure the trailer runs level on the hitch. Neutral. If it's high it can unload the rear tires, and really mess up stability. Low, it will whip around back there.

There are 15" LT tires. As the industry went to 16" and 17+" wheels, the selection of the smaller diameter ones narrowed up. Same thing with performance car tires.

2¢

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

My first post about the trailer having no brakes may have been a bit confusing, the trailer has brakes on both axles, they just were not hooked up because my father doesn't have a controller in his truck. His short bed F150 did not even flinch at towing this, the PO towed it cross country behind a short bed, two wheel drive GMC halfton. Also, it is my understanding that when this trailer was new (1973) it was not uncommon to tow them with a station wagon or four door sedan. Based on these three things I don't think I'm too far off trying this. I'm not trying to win any races, just trying to make due on a very limited budget.

Kevin

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crossthreads are better than locktite

Not saying you shouldn't, just be cautious. I've not had good results from the mechanical lockups, or moving heavy vehicles about with them.

Weigh the trailer. Think about loading water on, and dumping prior to traveling wherever possible. Decrease the load, and your risk is reduced.

The 1/2 ton can do a lot of work. It's just not ideal to the purpose.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I have to agree with CJ. A 5000 pound trailer behind a 3500-4000 pound truck with no brakes on the trailer is just not a good idea. I would say pulling the trailer with a 1/2 ton is possible,in an emergency, but not advisable. If you are going to tow something that heavy, you should really have a trailer braking system installed in the tow vehicle to be able to use the electric brakes in the trailer.

FYI- I drive a 1989 Ford E-150 van. I purchased the van from the original owners who were an older couple. They had bought the van down in Florida and then used it to drive cross-country (several times) pulling their 25 foot travel trailer. The van was originally built with a 302/AOD/8.8 drivetrain with 3.5 rear gears. The van was equipped with a factory transmission cooling package and an aftermarket trailer brake system. When I got the van the 302 was completely worn out, the AOD was worn but working OK, and the rear axle was OK. The rear springs were shot as was the front end and especially the kingpins. That is the kind of wear you should expect when you do a lot of heavy towing with a vehicle not designed to haul that much weight.

Frankly, I second the recommendation to get a 3/4 or 1 ton truck or van.