cani go with a lopey stage 3, with taking .100 of the head boring .30 over? Or do i need to do valve work? If i need valve work what do i need? This is a street car to and from carshows? No track time. Also is says with a high stall converter. Do i need a high stall if im not racing? I just want it to sound awesome and turn heads.

270 with 465 lift

Stock converter with lumpy cam will cause you problems. Cam will need more idle rpm so the converter will start to make the car move requiring you to keep brakes applied.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

What convertor would i need? And is that enough done to the engine? I will also be going with 4 barrel and headers.

Actually, no. You will need to take some measurements while taking apart the engine for rebuilding so you can determine the target compression ratio to make best use of the cam. Another thing to look at is the DCR which calculates the compression ratio when the engine really starts making power, the ratio also allows you to determine what kind of gasoline you will be able to use (would be bad if you put it all together and had to go cruising on 110 race gas at $9 a gallon...)

technically, if you are looking for the "lumpy sound", you can tighten the lash on the stock cam a little and get the same thing (set at .09/.19 in stead of .010/.020).

If you need someone here to check the SCR and DCR for the engine build we need this information:

Year of the engine
Which slant six (170/198/225)
What overbore are you going with?
How far down are the stock pistons in the bore at TDC?
Volume of the combustion chamber of the head
What cam do you intend to run?
(make/duration/lobe separation/lift)

It may sound technical, but if you just guess at what to deck the head or block, the lack of compression ratio to support the camshaft may leave you with an engine that would barely motivate the car.

-D.Idiot

I was told my a well known engine builder, that since im not looking for horsepower that running a lopey cam with no head work and just boring to 30 over is fine. I dont run the car over 45mph. I just want it to sound good.

If you're just going to go with his recommendation why ask us?

He has misinformed you greatly. By installing a bigger cam with a narrow LSA (a lot of overlap event) it bleeds down whatever cylinder pressure you are making, it will sound good but have not much power down low and stall out at idle to off idle rpms... If the cam you quoted is the Erson 270/270 cam it comes with a 111 LSA so it won't be "chuggety" lopey, and will have a smooth low end idle, if the SCR is held at 9.5:1 or so, it will have great street manners and may work with the stock convertor.
The bigger the cam, the more it needs higher rpm to stay 'happy" as the engine's power band is moved higher (you're changing out the street gearing to drag gearing so it will work better under 45 mph?) Going higher compression helps things on the low end, and it also changes the sound of the engine as well (10:1 vs. 9:1 SCR).

All the components you are picking need to support each other or you end up chasing problems trying to make it all workout correctly.

Based on using a set of 1963 engine parameters, it looks like if our machinist does what he proposes and doesn't change the combustion chamber volume by milling the head, the final set up is a 9.27:1 SCR, and with the stock Erson 270 advance 4 degrees you have a DCR of 7.58...(so you can use regular gas all the time)...it just won't get the sound you are wanting, the build would be perfect for an RV cam.

It sounds like your mind is made up, so go with what you plan, and let us know if it works out!

-D.Idiot

Why be an ass about it...? Im asking questions to know more.. i didnt understand to well the matrix section...i want to know basically what i need to do to get the lopey sound without having to change out convertor or putting thousands of dollars in it..i just cruise around in the car thats it..

And i havent made up my mind...

Try tightening-up the valve lash, as suggested and see if that gives the car the "lope" you want...
Doing that is easy and "reversable" if you want the power back.
DD

Thank you! So I can possibly get that sound with the stock cam and valvetrain?

Do you have a stock exhaust?

With the stock cam, stock compression, and stock exhaust, no. It will not sound particularly menacing.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I will be putting a 390cfm and headers

I don't know that it will "Lope." Depending on how you set the exhaust up, it may have a nice note to it.

DusterIdiot is right on about the compression. He's generally not grumpy either. Regardless, don't call people names here. This isn't that part of the internet.

While you have the stack off, mounting your 4bbl manifold and headers, measure everything, and cut the head. You will be happy you did. Compute the amount to cut based on information available here, and get it up to 9:1, or perhaps a bit more. A bit of converter helps. It might as well be able to bark the tires if your going to build it. Anything as big as the 270 class cam won't deliver well off idle without more converter. It will leave the line soft.
By bumping the compression up, you'll also improve your economy out on the road.

Be aware, a 390 CFM Holley of any flavor is not plug and play. There are a pile of threads about tuning, throttle lever modification and so forth on this forum. If you want something you can take out of the box, fabricate linkage and kickdown on, and drive, think about a 500 CFM Edelbrock AFB. With base jetting, the Edelbrock will run well right off. You will have to fabricate linkages for the throttle, kickdown, and return springs.
Once the Holley is tuned in, I feel that it can deliver better fuel economy.
The Edelbrock will run well at a variety of altitudes, temperatures, and doesn't have gaskets below the fuel level. = Few opportunities for a leak.
Points to ponder.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Ok! I apologize for the rude comment.. so if i give you all the exact year and deck height and all as mention above can yall tell what i need to do to make that sound that im chasing after? how do i find the CC of head?


Year of the engine
Which slant six (170/198/225)
What overbore are you going with?
How far down are the stock pistons in the bore at TDC?
Volume of the combustion chamber of the head
What cam do you intend to run?
(make/duration/lobe separation/lift)