Once your tune up is complete, and it's all good, and you've driven it for a couple of weeks....I'd try bumping up your initial timing to 5BTDC.
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| Tune up on a 74 Scamp /6 (First Time) https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=52379 |
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| Author: | vanleer mopars [ Sun Jun 16, 2013 5:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | Tune up on a 74 Scamp /6 (First Time) |
Hello This will be my first attempt to conduct a tune up on my 74 Scamp /6. Was wondering other than pins, points, and condenser. what else would be recommended during the tune up? Also on the tune up parts, what brand would you recommend for purchase? I have already replaced the upper radiator hose, thermostat, and temperature switch. just for info. also was thinking about replacing the alternator and voltage regulator. if money is available. Here is the photobucket pictures of my engine bay. http://s1363.photobucket.com/user/vanle ... 6%20engine All input is much appreciated Thank you for your time Van Leer |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Jun 16, 2013 8:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | Well... |
Quote: This will be my first attempt to conduct a tune up on my 74 Scamp /6. Was wondering other than pins, points, and condenser. what else would be recommended during the tune up? Also on the tune up parts, what brand would you recommend for purchase?
We can save you the $$ easily as a 1974 is electronic ignition so you have no points or condenser in the distributor. I would go this route:Cap- Standard Motor Products CH-410 Rotor- Echlin MO-3000 (NAPA) Spark Plugs - NGK ZFR5N Plugwires - Magnacore would be top, if in a rush for the parts Ordering a set of plug wires from Echlin will work for now. (Technically I make my own plug wire sets from the 8mm Accel Spiral Core Plug Wire Kits). If the alternator and VR charge just fine, don't replace, all the alternators over the counter are remans and their life expectancy is usually low. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Jun 16, 2013 10:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: We can save you the $$ easily as a 1974 is electronic ignition so you have no points or condenser in the distributor. I would go this route:
Dito that above DI listed, but inspect the other cooling system hoses, radiator cap and replace as needed.
Cap- Standard Motor Products CH-410 Rotor- Echlin MO-3000 (NAPA) Spark Plugs - NGK ZFR5N Plugwires - Magnacore would be top, if in a rush for the parts Ordering a set of plug wires from Echlin will work for now. (Technically I make my own plug wire sets from the 8mm Accel Spiral Core Plug Wire Kits). If the alternator and VR charge just fine, don't replace, all the alternators over the counter are remans and their life expectancy is usually low. |
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| Author: | vanleer mopars [ Mon Jun 17, 2013 3:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the info, I will try to find these items online. also thanks for suggesting not to switch out the alternator and voltage regulator, I just thought it might be time, because when I let off the accelerator the headlamps and dash light dim then brighten when I resume acceleration. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Mon Jun 17, 2013 5:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
[quote]when I let off the accelerator the headlamps and dash light dim then brighten when I resume acceleration.[/quote] You need to start another thread on “Electrical†to work through dimming lights, and other electrical issues. There are methods to correct these deficiencies. In a nut shell, often electrical issues in these cars are a result of corrosion at bulkhead connector of conductor’s brass connectors, as well as other poor connections in electrical system, and under sized conductors. [quote]also thanks for suggesting not to switch out the alternator and voltage regulator[/quote] Prudent method of repairing anything is to test components, pinpoint the problem, and not to start swapping out parts blindly in hopes of solving that deficiency or problem. It is a more cost effective method, saves time, money, and sanity. You need a few inexpensive tools to diagnose electrical problems, a volt ohm meter, a test light, and Chrysler factory service manual covering every part and system in your car bumper to bumper. |
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| Author: | Doc [ Mon Jun 17, 2013 8:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: ... what else would be recommended during the tune up? ...
The #1 thing...Buy a valve cover gasket and do a valve lash adjustment. (if the vehicle still has the original 74 'solid lifter' engine) DD |
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| Author: | vanleer mopars [ Wed Jun 26, 2013 10:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks everyone Ill check the valve cover gasket and how do I do a lash adjustment? never done that before. Also I checked into the Accel Wires and they come in 7mm and 8mm, what's the difference for performance wise, and would 7mm be ok to go with. I am gonna try to make them myself vs. buying them already done. I got a car show upcoming on July 12 and would like to have my tune up done before then, just buying parts as money permits. Thanks again for the info Van Leer |
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| Author: | 75valiant [ Wed Jun 26, 2013 12:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
there is a short heater hose that goes from the water pump to the head, about 3 inches long. your car will have two sizes of heater hose; the short piece is of the larger size. buy new heater hose unless yours has obviously been recently replaced. failure can be inconvenient. silicone is the best, but it costs more. I caved and bought the regular because I have bought so many parts getting mine up to snuff. use SILICONE lubricant to get the small hose on (oil or grease will destroy the rubber hose, defeating the purpose of the whole exercise). oh, before your start this, it's a real good idea to drain the radiator and save the fluid before you start. unless it's trashed, then a flush and fill is the way to go. also inspect your radiator cap. as to the alternator, see if there is an alternator/starter shop in your area. these guys can save you a ton of money and do better work than what you can buy in the stores. mine always charges somewhere between $15-35, depending on what is needed. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Jun 26, 2013 2:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Sometimes... |
Quote: your car will have two sizes of heater hose
That would be normal on the stock heater core, I have come across two different configurations for the replacement heater cores on the late A-body so you'll have to check to see if your core has two same sized tubes or if one tube is smaller in diameter from the other. FYI. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | vanleer mopars [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 5:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I found that tube that goes from water pump to engine 3 inch long, and looks like it never been replaced, I will diffiently change it out, as soon as I get rest of parts ordered in, just got the cap and rotor in today just waiting for the rest of my parts, taking a long time to come in from Tennessee to Arizona! |
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| Author: | vanleer mopars [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 1:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Alright got my parts in this evening gonna work on it my next days off, have a question though I ordered the OE type plugs for my slant 6 (Champion Copper/Spark Plug), and was wondering if any of you bought recently or put some in if they needed to be gap or not. Just curious before I place them in, also if they need to be gap what is the best gab or OE specs .035 I was told by a friend just want to make sure. Thanks Van Leer |
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| Author: | 67 Dodge Coronet 440 [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 6:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | gap |
yes 035 is the gap.God Bless..Bear R.- |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 7:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | Actually... |
Since you are EI, you can gap the NGK ZFR5N at .040. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | vanleer mopars [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 11:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks again everyone for all the input and help, especially Duster Idiot. I owe you guys alot for your expertise and problem solving abilities. I'll let you know how the Scamp turns out after the tune up. Thank you for your time Van Leer |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 12:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | one more item... |
Once your tune up is complete, and it's all good, and you've driven it for a couple of weeks....I'd try bumping up your initial timing to 5BTDC.
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