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 Post subject: Iron filings in the oil
PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 7:18 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:20 am
Posts: 762
Location: St. Louis Park, MN
Car Model:
I changed oil on the white Valiant today after my 3,600 trip to the west coast. To my dismay there was quite a bit of iron filing residue present when I cut open the oil filter. Lots of small shiny specs and they are definately magnetic. I don't usually see anything like this on a street car, the race car would show some similar specs that I attributed to cam wear but never this many.

Have any of you ever delt with this isssue? I would think the cam or possibly the oil pump drive gear could be the source. I would love to figure this out without pulling the engine and trying to remove my leak proof oil pan gasket. I could recheck the valve lash and lift on each cam lobe which I haven't done yet. Or I could probably jack the engine high enough to pull the oil pump. What do you think?

The car seems to be running as good as it ever has and I always put in half a bottle of Comp Cams break in lube, which is zinc rich, with each oil change.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 2:55 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17299
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
Ugh. I would never know because I don't cut open my oil filters, but that does sound ominous.

What about a small dental mirror down the distributor hole to let you look at the pump/cam gears? You might be able to feel with a finger through the dist hole too?

Could be something like the cam timing gear is eating into the block? Tilley said this happened for him a few times.

Fingers crossed....

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 5:07 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 9115
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
That doesn't sound good! And with known oil pump gear issues on our engines in the past, that would be my guess. Do you know a tool man or a mechanic that may have one of those flexible shaft tools with a video screen on the end? (Bore scope)With that you could probably look down the distributor hole and see things a little better.

Rick

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 7:08 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14770
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
I've got a bore scope. My junk usually blows up enough I don;t need it though. :oops:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 8:23 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 9115
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
I've got a bore scope
There you go! :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 9:43 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:29 am
Posts: 1290
Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
Car Model:
no round flat multi magnets in oil pan?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 11:44 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 9115
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Any update on your engine Seymour??

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
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12.70 @ 104.6
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 7:14 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:20 am
Posts: 762
Location: St. Louis Park, MN
Car Model:
I did check the valve lash and the maximum lift at the retainer on each valve showing no signs of excessive wear. Lift at retainer was only .410 out of .450 but when you consider lash, parts flexing, and rocker ratio variations that's probably about right. I usually only check cam specs at the lifter. The only other thing I did was to back off my cam stop screw in case it was putting too much pressure on the cam gear to block surface. I am going to go on a 400 mile plus trip and do some testing on the drag strip in the next month. Afterwards I will cut open the oil filter and see how it looks.

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