you can expect some additional friction with each piston added.
my recent rebuild definately was more difficult to turn over via a breaker bar on the front crank nut as a never ran engine than it was after it was started and actually ran...
I used a known good points distributor and coil for the initial run,, nothing like having one less thing to worry about. Conservation on the ignition timing.
Spinning the engine without the spark plugs in, in intervals untill you see oil pressure on the gauge is a good idea.
Once the motor starts, I had seen Doc mention that he likes to verify that the push rods are spinning and the top end is oiling. I did that on my build,, left the bolts out of the valve cover and pulled it off while the motor was running to get a good look.
Once the VC is secured, re start the motor, take a good look to verify that the engin is free of fuel, oil, water leaks,,fan belts are still in place and the engine sounds normal, if so run it up to 2000 rpm for about 20 minutes to break in the cam.
top off the radiator as needed, continue to watch for leaks, keep an eye on the oil pressure and engine temp gauges. I let my engine completely cool down then ran it through another 2000 rpm 20 minute cycle.
good luck,, let us know how it goes
