my transmission lines to the trans cooler are really rusty and the other day punch a hole in the line, loss a lot of fluid, that the trans won't go into gear.
I don't really want to replace with steel lines, never good at bending the lines. thought about get these hoses from Gates,. would like an opinion on this. Is this good? Plan to get about 12 feet of this stuff to do both lines.




Gates® - Transmission Oil Cooler Hose
Part # 27060
Line: GAT
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Gates® - Transmission Oil Cooler Hose
Part Number: 27060
Line: GAT
1 Year Limited Warranty
UPC: 72053433609
Centerline Length (ft): 50
Inside Diameter 1 (in): .3125
Working Pressure (psi): 400
Detailed Description
Provides a safe, heat and oil resistant connecting line between oil cooler and transmission.
One fiber braid reinforcement over an oil resistant nitrile rubber tube.
Oil and abrasion resistant black hypalon cover.
Meets or exceeds SAE J1019 requirements.
Can be stacked on shelf or hung on pegboard.
Easy-to-follow instructions in each package.
Handy hose diameter indicator on package.
Maximum temperature Rating: +300 Deg. F (+150 Deg. C).
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Gates - Powering Progress

Additional Details
Inside Diameter 1 (In): 5/16 Inch
Centerline Length (ft): 50 Foot
Inside Diameter (In): 5/16 Inch
Working Pressure (psi): 400 psi
Manufacturer Information

I'd really consider getting either reproduction cooler lines or decent used lines. Doing it all in rubber hose might be ok for a temporary (see if the trans works at all) repair, but it get exposed to a fair bit of heat & movement. I wouldn't trust it for long term use for the entire trans to rad length.

Another option would be to get 5/16" copper-nickel tubing (it's much nicer to work with than steel & won't rust or corrode) & a tubing bender & a simple flaring tool. Then run the cooler lines (tubing) from the radiator back along the right frame rail to the front of the trans. Make more lines from the trans fittings to the right side of the bell housing, then connect the trans lines to the frame lines with your rubber hose (double-clamp all connections).

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

The way I did it - I ran metal tube from the trans port to the bellhousing. From there to the rad I used braided teflon hose. Pricy... but it'll last a lifetime and don't have to fight with the lines or worry about kinking / rust / etc.

Rubber hose will work but is a bit risky at that length. Shield it or cover it with stainless braid dressup stuff. Abrasion or accidental cutting can become an issue. That stuff was meant to be used more for short lengths between a trans and cooler mounted close by.

Pierre, I like your approach. What kind of fittings did you use to interface between braided line, hard line, and the trans? And what size did you use? The stock line is 5/16". But the cooler I purchased along with the filter and the thermostat are all 3/8". Is there good reason to size down to the 5/16 line behind the filter, which is up front on the inner fender.

The choice of fittings can be a little be intimidating to figure out and track down. YOu have flare fittings, compression fittings, AN fittings, and NPT fittings. I know when I was doing my fuel line I spent over $100 on various AN adapters and such, not counting the hose itself. I would have been lost without the counter guy at the nearest speed shop which is now 35 miles north in the next big town, Frederick MD. And I am sure I paid premium prices for the parts there.

Sam

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WagonsRcool, Pierre;

Thanks for the replies, I have in the basement an spare set of lines, I will look at their conditions, hopefully the lines are bent right even though they may be for a 2 door, as I have a 4 door, should not make any difference, as this is for trans to radiator, which should be the same. thanks all...Jerry