Not planning to do anything to crazy to the Barracuda, but wouldn't mind a little improvement in get up and go. I think the obviously place to start is the 1bbl Holley. Right now its bone stock as far as I'm aware. I don't think CR has been upped when it was rebuilt, but I also haven't tested.

I see two options in front of me now.

1. I find a 2bbl intake manifold and a good 2bbl to put on it, something progressive as to keep good mpg but have the option of dropping the hammer. I see some 2bbl intakes available places like ebay will be a few hundred monies. I don't really have time or fabricating skill so I'd have to pay to modify a stock one myself, so I'd opt to just buy it already done.

2. the 6=8 goodies over at cliffor's are pricey, but they also look to be rather turn key. I'm drooling over their twin webber 32/36 setup. Would include the manifold and carbs (Supposedly pre-tuned for expected use). Only thing I would need from my investigation is to swap my kickdown for a universal kickdown from lokar. Clifford reports somewhere around 80% power increase from just this. Is that really to be believed? That would put me from what i assume is 100~ to 180~? Sounds a little overoptimistic to me.

#2 I also wonder if the mpg can stay as good as it is now? Since they're progressive, when putting around in theory I'd be using very little fuel, maybe equivalent of a single 1bbl since each would feed only 3 cylinders and should be able to run pretty lean with nice even distribution.

Any input it welcome. I would likely also put on headers at the same time if I did #2 since i believe its not compatible with the stock exhaust manifold with the heater block.

_________________
1968 Plymouth Barracuda [Daily Driver]
1972 Dodge Dart Swinger [Lent out as Daily Driver to a friend]
2010 Challenger R/T 6 Speed

Actually, the place I would start would be the brakes and suspension. No point in making it faster if you can't stop or corner safely. Second would be increasing the exhaust size to 2 1/4 inches with a free flowing muffler. Third would be converting to HEI or some other the of electronic ignition (if you aren't already). Next I would look at upgrading the cam. Then I would look at increasing the dynamic compression ratio and possibly the valve size.

You can do a lot with the stock one barrel carb. There are easier and better modifications to do before a carb switch.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

We can save you the pain of getting forked over by Clifford...just send $500 to the board and keep driving the car as is...

Clifford may look good for eye candy, but nothing they have sold in the last 10 years has been turn key (I like the guy that got a hot rod camshaft from them and it was a hydraulic cam shaft with mechanical lifters...if Doc hadn't been on hand that guy would have been out a motor.) Given that Pro-Line couldn't get a 100% turn key dual weber setup for people in other areas, I wouldn't trust Clifford to deliver....
(be pretty hard to dial it in at the California shop and then have it ready to drive for a guy in Denver....)
Only with the right cam, and some porting, and 9:1 compression...come to think about it...I was able to get about 160 out of a supersix setup and 9.6:1 compression, and porting the head, using stock valves...196 out of 10:1 and O/S valves, and cam and porting, and long ram 4 barrel...200+ with lots more compression....

note that dual webers are cool to look at but with two progressive 2 barrels, you are still effectively dialing in 1 4 barrel carb (but can tune the front 3 and back 3 of the engine a little better...but then you have to 'balance them' unlike the 4 barrel that everything is integral to and you are just unsquaring the jets if needed)
A lot of hope is hung on this, and you will be spending a lot of off time dialing it in....even with the 2 small primaries you will have about the same mileage as you have now (or possibly a little worse if not tuned right and the engine build was not setup for the intake/carb configuration).

Personally, I would go with Reed's recommendation and get your brakes and suspension dialed in first, once you put the screws to the drivertrain, a 7 1/4" rear axle and 10" drums will start to complain after some hard driving.


Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

The order I would follow for more power, assuming the engine is mechanically sound is:

2 1/4" exhaust and a free flowing muffler
Electronic ignition with an appropriate advance curve
Late model air cleaner with cold air hose
Increase the compression ratio to a true 8.5:1 (bet you a dollar you're under 8:1)
Larger intake valves and intake port work
Larger exhaust valves and port work
Bigger carburetor and appropriate manifold
Custom camshaft
Headers

_________________
Joshua

I did convert to electronic ignition already so that is ticked off. Other than that I can see exhaust as doable. And front disks are also on my shopping list.

I don't otherwise really want to pull the motor apart. I don't really want the car out of commission for very long, so pulling the head and taking it somewhere seems daunting. Its just being used as a cruiser and daily driver (which is a nice cruise through the canyons to malibu). Which is why I just wanted a little more out of it, but to maintain mpg.

Sounds like maybe I should just get the single 2bbl intake and something progressive on top, headers+exhaust and call it a day?

_________________
1968 Plymouth Barracuda [Daily Driver]
1972 Dodge Dart Swinger [Lent out as Daily Driver to a friend]
2010 Challenger R/T 6 Speed

For a daily driver you want to keep intake manifold heat so no headers. A progressive 2bbl with a proper air cleaner and 2 1/4" exhaust is what I would do if the head isn't coming off.

_________________
Joshua

If you dont want to increase compression or pull the head off the only things you can really do are as Josh said.

Best bang for buck....2 1/4 exhaust + Super 6 BBD + EI(with advance curve)

A 4 barrel(or Clifford manifold) and headers on a stock motor is a huge waste.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Does this apply to California?

_________________
1968 Plymouth Barracuda [Daily Driver]
1972 Dodge Dart Swinger [Lent out as Daily Driver to a friend]
2010 Challenger R/T 6 Speed

Cliffords dual Weber setup is waaaay overpriced at $1200.

I built my own twin Weber 2bbl setup for way less. Check it out: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... f.jpg.html For more detail, see this thread: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... n&start=15

I'd be happy to share my experiences with this setup, runs great.

Tom Langdon sells these 32/34 DFT progressive 2bbl Webers for $90 a piece. See: http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/ ... id=1222026 He has a new website up. He also sells the linkage kit for $50, see: http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/ ... id=1222052

Offenhauser sells the intake manifold for $289, see: http://www.aaamarine.com/servlet/the-17 ... arb/Detail I called them, sent them the carb mounting dimensions, and they milled the manifold for the Webers for no charge.

There are a few things I made myself, the brackets to hold the carbs' linkage, a bracket for the throttle cable and kickdown cable (also off the shelf), but it works great!

K&N makes air cleaners for these carbs, they are pricey, like $70 per, but still you're looking at about $700 for a great setup, over $1200 for the Clifford setup.

I'd be happy to share my templates, experiences, pics, any technical advice I have. It ain't cheap, but it's way cheaper than Clifford. In retrospect, it was an experiment, I broke my budget, but it was worth it.

bg

I have to agree with Joshua...given that you were looking for just a bit more pep, maybe a 2bbl intake and one 2bbl would work nicely...the carbs I mentioned match the slant 6 as a pair, not enough CFM's with just one, a bigger 2bbl is needed if only using one...maybe buy a used 2bbl intake off ebay, e.g. see http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-DODGE-PLY ... aa&vxp=mtr, and find a good 2bbl and 2 1/4 exhaust, and you're good to go.

bg

This applies to anywhere that dips below 100 F.

_________________
Joshua

I was looking at that specific one, however its from turkey. and shipping was like 160 bucks ontop of the price.
Good to know. Was assuming that was more a thing for places that did actually get cold by people outside of our little bubble's definition. Its 80 out right now here in malibu, and still getting warmer.

_________________
1968 Plymouth Barracuda [Daily Driver]
1972 Dodge Dart Swinger [Lent out as Daily Driver to a friend]
2010 Challenger R/T 6 Speed

Very interesting. Be glad to see the specifics of anything non off the shelf to see if it is stuff I could get around here.

_________________
1968 Plymouth Barracuda [Daily Driver]
1972 Dodge Dart Swinger [Lent out as Daily Driver to a friend]
2010 Challenger R/T 6 Speed

The bits that I fabricated were nothing special. I used a really heavy door 4" hinge that I happened to have for the brackets that support the linkage swivel posts, but any steel plating would work, they are about 1/8" thick.

For the bracket that holds the throttle cable and kickdown cable, I used a piece of heavy angled steel that was holding an external oil catch can on the car when I got it, but again, any piece of heavy angle with the right dimensions would work.

I used an off the shelf billet aluminum linkage arm ($10) and modified it to hold the stock throttle cable as a clamp, and another one modified to hold the end of the throttle cable at the linkage rod. The rest of the linkage was the $50 kit Tom Langdon sells. I used one of the extra springs in the kickdown cable package for my return spring.

I can't recall which kickdown cable I used, but I can dig it up...

I'm pretty sure it's the Lokar one for the A-904, the number is 2904HT I believe.

OK, with that, I guess it was more like $800...wow, I did break my budget ...but it's awesome!