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| 833 Customized CounterShaft https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54389 |
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| Author: | mike8x7 [ Wed Jan 22, 2014 12:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 833 Customized CounterShaft |
I has a 833 OD 3.09 1.67 0 .73. I want to change gear ratios by grafting the first counter shaft gear from a early B E body 2.66 first gear. on to the OD counter( cut of the first gear off both and weld and balence the first gear(not the 17 tooth but the other end which matches the drive pinion. on the countershaft of the od. Since it will be turning FASTER I'd prob throw in an extra set of needle barrings too, on both ends of the shaft. If done the ratios would be 2.66 1.43 0 .63. Id really LUV to have this ratio with a 4.56 rear!!!!!! Has anybody ever tried this???? I live in mass and the machine shops say I'm nut for asking to do this...I figure if they cut and reweld cranks and shorted rear axels why not make a custom COUNTERSHAFT!!!!! If anyone has done it and know of a machinist that can do it please let me know, I"M VERY SERIOUS, MIKE |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Food for thought... |
Quote: I has a 833 OD 3.09 1.67 0 .73. I want to change gear ratios by grafting the first counter shaft gear from a early B E body 2.66 first gear. on to the OD counter( cut of the first gear off both and weld and balence the first gear(not the 17 tooth but the other end which matches the drive pinion. on the countershaft of the od. Since it will be turning FASTER I'd prob throw in an extra set of needle bearings too, on both ends of the shaft.
It's just not cost effective...for the same price of the labor you could probably get a T-5 setup with the 5.0L box and go from there (2.95-1st gear there...A TKO or T-56 6 speed starts at 2.66, but nobody's done that transplant yet...)...when they rebalance crank shafts if something is off they drill the counterweights/throws and add heavy slugs back into the crank to restore balance (about the size of an A to a C battery), I don't see this as something that would be easy on the countershaft gear set...also during heavy launch and sporty shifts the gear clusters want to "spread" the two shafts apart (3rd gear is the safest since it unitizes the input and mainshaft so they are "locked"...the aluminum cases tend to "egg" the countershaft hole in the case when used behind the bigger engines or extreme duress), so it may side/cross load the cluster and cause issues with the welding if the penetration is not 100% and uniform. It would probably be just as labor intensive and easier to have them machine a custom countershaft set so you can just swap the gears on the mainshaft and drop it right in (metaphorically speaking)...either way if your local shops (or unlocal shops) don't want to do the work, but accept the order they will be charging you big time for this item.If done the ratios would be 2.66 1.43 0 .63. Id really LUV to have this ratio with a 4.56 rear!!!!!! Has anybody ever tried this???? I live in mass and the machine shops say I'm nut for asking to do this...I figure if they cut and reweld cranks The other option (being even more expensive) would be Passon's A-855 transmission as it has the ratio spread you want, without the 1st to 2nd gear spread and rpm drop the 2.66 to 1.43 would cause... Other concerns might be what happens if it can be welded but it ruins the countershaft cluster and you have to reassemble the tranny back to stock...there are two different A-833OD gear sets used in the A/F bodies and Trucks/Vans...one set has course pitched gears and the other fine pitch...make sure you count the first gear teeth to determine which you have in case you have to buy another cluster... My duster has 4.56 gears and the A-833 OD (iron case now, as the aluminum case unit started to whine during daily driving after some 6K hyperpak clutch drops...the new case has never complained even behind the 12:1 SCR motor...). I don't utilize 1st gear in traffic unless I am just idling around...but I did lose compression in a cylinder a few years back and the 3.09 1st gear allowed daily driving (30 mile round trips) without any problems on a slant 5 cylinder engine... Food for thought... -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Doc [ Wed Jan 22, 2014 5:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Outside of the labor / cost issue, the big "challenge" is the welding work. Common transmission gears are made from a number of different steel alloys (1045, 4140, 4340, 8620 to name a few) and then the gears are heat treated after machining / "hobbing". Knowing the alloy and the heat treatment is the first step to knowing if the part can be successfully welded & re-heat treated. If it were me, I would not cut the 2 countershafts thru the shaft bores. (IDs) Instead, I would machine the driven gear off the countershaft's "hub" in a way that allows matching splines to be cut onto the hub and into the Inner Diameter (ID) of the gear being replaced on to the countershaft. Doing that level of machine work would keep the countershaft hub at it's original length / strength and allow you to swap-on different driven countershaft gears, with-out having to weld them onto the countershaft. DD |
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