So I'm looking at parts to do my T5 conversion, but understand that, while I understand the principles of how a clutch system works, I have no hands-on experience with them, so the specific details are sketchy at best. Which leaves me trying to figure out exactly which Mopar parts and which Mustang parts I need.

Based on a question I posted previously, my understanding is that I need a Mustang clutch disk (to match the T-5 spline count), while the pressure plate and throwout bearing should be Mopar/Slant Six pieces. If that's the case, then an F-body clutch fork should work with my OD bellhousing, right?

As far as a Mustang clutch disk, I just need to make sure that it's a size that will fit inside the Mopar pressure plate, correct? As in, if I get a 10" Mopar pressure plate, I can use a 10" Mustang clutch disk, right?

I'm going with a hydraulic clutch, but haven't decided whether or not to go with a slave or a hydro throw-out bearing. If I go with a hydro throwout bearing, the A-833 hydro throwout should still play with the T-5 and mishmash of Mopar and Mustang parts, right?

Also, my bellhousing from the group buy came with a V8 crank hub adapter. If I go with a V6 T-5, how do I go about buying/commissioning a V6 crank adapter? Before anyone says "take some measurements", I don't have the transmission yet, so I need to figure out if I'm going to be able to have one made before I commit to either the V8 or V6 transmission. Do you think I could just measure the difference between the V8 and V6 input shafts and have my adapter shortened by that amount?

Any help would be appreciated, and please excuse my stupidity. I've been trying to make this happen for several years, but money's still tight, and I'm just trying to prevent spending any money unnecessarily.

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vm

So... nuthin'?

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vm

This has been covered in depth in the past so it's only nuthin' if you let it be.

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Joshua

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ion+clutch

Might help get you started.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Dont forget to look here too:

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38445


At the bottom of the page


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Pardon me, Joshua. I've spent YEARS poring through every T-5 thread posted on this site over and over. If you can direct me to a thread that answers the specific questions I posted above, I'll stand corrected. If I'm supposed to just extrapolate my answers from what's there, the whole swap is simply beyond my meager intellect. After all, I'm not asking "how do I install a T-5 behind my slant?".

Does a 10" Mustang clutch work with a 10" slant six pressure plate? What's the dimensional difference between the V8 and the V6 crank adapters? For that matter, what the hell do I do with the crank hub adapter I have? I thought it was to support the input shaft at the crank. It doesn't bolt to the back of crank like I would expect, nor do I see a way to attach the pilot bearing, so where does it actually go? I guess those answers are just common sense to everyone else, but I thought I'd use the internet for what's it's actually for. It's not like there's an exploded view of how all of these specific parts go together, and I have nothing to compare it to.

Let me reiterate: I DO NOT have a manual transmission car to reference. I've never even replaced a clutch in my life. I've rebuilt/replaced engines and done all manner of work on my cars, but I have limits to my experience. Repair manuals are of little use here, although I've read everything I can find on the stock setup. But there's no "exploded view of a T-5 clutch setup behind a slant six. And I like driving my car. I have no desire to pull my car off the road and let it sit "mid project" for months or years while I try and figure this stuff out all by myself, IF I can ever figure it out. I also have a limited budget to work with, so I can't afford to solve every problem by just throwing money at it. And I'll be damned if I'm gonna spend $500-700 on a transmission and just hope that I can eventually put it in.

I got the (initial) impression from the group buy that the more experienced members who have done the swap would be willing to answer specific questions regarding this swap. With slantsix.com gone, this site remains the ONLY source of information for this swap. Here are the most prominent answers I've received or read: "use the 'search' function", or "dive in, take measurements, and figure it out, every swap is different". If I don't know what to measure, how does this suggestion possibly help?

I've never expected to do this swap without tearing the car apart and taking a few risks (along with LOTS of measurements), but I've been trying for years to get some fundamental information that I can ONLY get on this site BEFORE I pull my car apart and spend a ton of money, and it's been like pulling frickin' teeth. With the exception of a few individuals, most of "the T-5 club" behaves like a damned secret society.

Well, I've had it. Terribly sorry to put the "T-5 Illuminati" out and waste bandwidth with my (obviously) innane questions. (Even if the answers ARE around here somewhere, would it have been so hard to post them again? There are only about 50 different threads on this swap, and the info available is all over the place. But how many many times has "how do I adjust my valves?" or "what's my bolt pattern?" been asked and answered around here ad infinitum?)

The T-5 swap is obviously beyond my abilities and always will be. I wish I'd had a clearer picture up front, but I'm tired of begging for answers and getting ignored (if I'm lucky) or a smart a$$ response as if I'm a complete idiot. I'll just sell my bellhousing and go another direction. I feel like I'd get more info installing a damned POWERGLIDE than a T-5 at this point.

Thanks, Lou, for organizing the group buy, and Sam for your extensive writeup on your swap, and Greg for your writeup on clutches. That gave me just enough info to have hope that I could actually do this swap myself, but it's way out of my league. Sorry to bother everyone, and feel free to contact me if you want to buy a never used T-5 bellhousing and V8 crank adapter. Meanwhile, I'll stick to what I know and just drive my Swinger with the old 904 automatic.

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vm

Hey Vynn,

First off I didn't use a T5....I used a different 5 speed.

I did my swap 15 years ago.....I don't remember details about anything I did that long ago.....so to answer your questions I would have to search just like you do.

I didn't use a 10" clutch......but I can tell you a 9.25 fits ....

The thing is you are going to have to do all the things that you don't want to do in order to make this work.

Ill admit to being grumpy over the years at people who demanded that I write a specific manual for them and their particular car.

I bought a trans .....measured it up....installed it in 2 days for $200. Nobody gave me any help. Surely you can do some reading and measuring and make your scene work.

No one who has done this before is hiding everything......but I know I get tired of the same questions over and over about methods or clutches I never used.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Hi Vynn,

Buy an 88 Mustang pilot bearing and press into crank adapter, then that unit into the back of the crank. If you do not have the V8 T5, then input will be longer and you might have to modify that crank/pilot adapter length. That holds the input shaft of trans relative to the crank.

10" 88 Mustang GT clutch disc will work with 10" Slant PP - had that setup in my 64 Dart for first 3 yrs. Clutch linkages (or hydraulic TOB) need to be customized. I used a McLeod T5 hydro TOB with custom spacer sleeve to set it fore and aft at the right location. Used a Wilwood 3/4" clutch master cyl, but 5/8" might have been better for easier modulation and pedal effort. I have posted all of this on the site, but it has been a long time (10+ yrs)...

Hope this helps!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Clutch fork goes with the bellhousing. Differences in clutch forks have been covered, but, all 4-speed F-bodies were A833OD so you would be matching an an A833OD bellhousing and clutch fork.
The clutch disk needs to match the transmission splines, the clutch plate OD and also plate thickness. The Bork and Beck clutch cover can be adjusted for different disc thicknesses, but if the two clutch plates (the Mopar and Ford) are close in thickness you probably won't have an issuse. B&B covers are more forgiving than diapraghm covers.[/quote]
Throwout bearings interface on the clutch fork, clutch cover fingers (Mopar) and the transmission input bearing retainer (Ford T5). A Ford release bearing would probably work so long as the bearing will fit the Mopar clutch fork, is the right OD and contact-face profile to mate with the B&B clutch cover finders. An external hydraulic pull cylinder on a custom bracket and a sleeve to support the Mopar bearing on the T5 bearing retainer is your other option.
Do you mean pilot bearing adapter?

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Joshua

Thank you guys for your patience and information. I apologize for my frustration and drama. Upon reflection, I'd still like to take a shot at this if I can find a decent T-5 that I can afford. This info gives me a clear enough picture to spend money on parts and proceed, and I really appreciate your time.

The reason for this resurgence in interest is that I've recently conceded that I'm not going to find an affordable V8 T-5, and realized that the V6 version is more affordable, and (probably) more than sturdy enough for my particular slant. So I'm scrambling to make sure the change of direction is viable before I buy a trans.

I took a welding class last summer for the sole purpose of eventually fabricating a cross member for the T-5 (although I can use the skill for other auto-related things, too), so I'm trying to reach a "higher level of expertise". But other than you guys' help, I'm still doing this on my own, with little training, no local help, no manual trans experience, and not as much common sense as it probably requires.

I'm prepared to try and fabricate a hydraulic clutch setup to save $$$. Done LOTS of research on that, too. The hydraulic throwout sounds much easier, but costs more and would be difficult to work on if I had any issues (and knowing me, I will). My understanding is that I just need to juggle the master and slave cylinder diameter and volumes to get the job done.

Thanks again for the help. I'll try not to bother you guys until the car's apart and everything's in pieces on the garage floor.

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vm

Thanks, Lou. Sorry to be dense, but I'm still not understanding how the crank adapter attaches to the crank itself. What I have is a short, steel "tube" with two flattened/machined sides. Are we talking about the same part, or have I somehow gotten parts mixed up? How does that piece attach to the crank once I've pressed the pilot bushing into it?

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vm

The crank adapter is used to make the Mustang pilot bearing fit in the slant crank pocket. It presses in (I think) I used a different method to do the same thing. I pressed an extension onto my input shaft.

I apologise for my harsh words the other day.....when I reread them the tone I heard was far worse than what I thought I wrote.

You really need to get all the parts in your hands to understand how they go together and work together.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Thanks for info, Sandy. I'm going try and start buying some parts and go from there. I'm sure that will clear up some of my questions, but it's kindof a "point of no return" financially, which is why I've been trying to get as much info as possible first.

Your RAP swap has been an inspiration to many of us, and I for one thank you for sharing your story. I've always been jealous of your ingenuity and talent.

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vm

Thanks for everyone taking a step back and taking a breath. Now I think we can all help Vynn get this done. I think I have a picture of someone who used the Wilwood clutch slave and used it to pull the factory clutch fork. I will see if I can find it. It is much cheaper than the McLeod units but requires some more work on your own.

Vynn, you can do a write-up of your install when it is done. Then you will be helping someone else.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Crank adapter ring presses into the inside of the crank hub. It is designed for correct pilot bearing placement for a 7.2" long V8 T5. The V6 ones are longer, so you might have to shorten the adapter ring.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988